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Topic: Total Roof Re-sealing (Read 922 times) previous topic - next topic

Total Roof Re-sealing

Hello friends,

I've tried doing my homework by searching "roof coatings" and "roof sealant," including this thread:  Ever wonder why the roof on our Foretravels feels so solid when you walk on...

Given the age of that thread and some of the others I found, however, I'll ask — anyone have a recommendation for a TOTAL roof coating to rid us of leaks for a while?  And part two of the question, who/what firm would you recommend apply the coating? 

With thanks!  This Forum is wonderful and we're very grateful for how well we've been received in our first four months of ownership, and for the large amount of VERY helpful guidance provided.
The selected media item is not currently available.Richard & Susan Peck
____________________
1999 40' U320 "Bob Patrick"
(2000 4010 U320 WTFE Floor Plan, Single Slide)
Build #5567  |  MC #17522

Re: Total Roof Re-sealing

Reply #1 –
Very unlikely that you need a complete roof reseal.

Quite likely that you do need to recaulk end cap seams and around roof penetrations.

Only reason for a complete roof reseal is if there is a breakdown in the fiberglass itself-- very rare.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Total Roof Re-sealing

Reply #2 –
I have a crack in the fiberglass that seems to be spreading.  It radiates out from one of the bathroom fan corners.  I used self-leveling roof sealant which stopped the leak but I remember reading about using a screw to stop the crack from spreading further.  I believe Brett posted it a long time ago but I can't find it.  How long and what type of screw?  I'm guessing it goes at the end of the crack? 
Dwayne Keith
1992 U240
3116/MD3060

Re: Total Roof Re-sealing

Reply #3 –
Dwayne,
  All you do is to drill a hole at the end of the crack, no screw.  Google "drill hole at end of crack" for more info
good luck,
Rick

Re: Total Roof Re-sealing

Reply #4 –
Brett,

Thanks, as always, for your help!  Two quick questions:  (1) Would you recommend Dicor or 3M Marine 4000 UV, which I read about in another Forum thread?  And (2) if I remove the Winegard antenna, what's the best procedure for filling/remedying the roof penetration(s)?

The selected media item is not currently available.Richard & Susan Peck
____________________
1999 40' U320 "Bob Patrick"
(2000 4010 U320 WTFE Floor Plan, Single Slide)
Build #5567  |  MC #17522

Re: Total Roof Re-sealing

Reply #5 –
We may have some chemists on the board who can better answer your sealant question.  Both products are good quality and widely used.

As far as the antenna-- are you wanting to remove the antenna completely?  If so, just use a 1/8" thick aluminum plate painted white with holes on the 4 corners to allow you to screw it to the room (using sealant of course).

If you want to keep the antenna, get with Winegard for new seals and directions in how to install them.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Total Roof Re-sealing

Reply #6 –
Dicor seems to remain tacky for much longer than the 3M 4000 UV. My choice has been the 3M 4000 UV.  It doesn't seem to collect as much dirt. 

Full disclosure: Of course I am from Minnesota, home of 3M and sponsor of our Habitat for Humanity crew who have built or restored more than 150 homes in the last 20 years.  🔨 Thanks for your support.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Total Roof Re-sealing

Reply #7 –
Xtreme, MOT and FOT all use and recommend Dicor - Not to say that 3M isn't a great product.
Tim Fiedler    2025 LTV Unity MBL on Order
2000 Chevy Tracker 2 Door Convertible 4WD Now lifted 4.5"
1985 Citroen 2CV6 Charleston
Murphy Rebel on wheels with 175HP Titan
Cessna P337
1980 48' Westport MY (!/4 Share)

Re: Total Roof Re-sealing

Reply #8 –
Quote from: LookingWest –
if I remove the Winegard antenna, what's the best procedure for filling/remedying the roof penetration(s)?
I removed a old satellite antenna - same base as the Winegard.  As suggested by Brett, I cut some aluminum plate to the same size as the base, drilled holes to match the base, painted white, sealed with Dicor, attached with same screws used with the base.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Total Roof Re-sealing

Reply #9 –
Chuck & Jeannie,

Great help — thank you!  Really appreciate the photos.  Nice work, by the way!  Want to do another one?  <big wink>


Richard & Susan
The selected media item is not currently available.Richard & Susan Peck
____________________
1999 40' U320 "Bob Patrick"
(2000 4010 U320 WTFE Floor Plan, Single Slide)
Build #5567  |  MC #17522

Re: Total Roof Re-sealing

Reply #10 –
If you remove the Winegard, you'll also have a hole in the interior ceiling to deal with.  I made a "plug" out of several layers of blue exterior foam sheathing material, and filled the hole.  I had some of the white wooly ceiling material left over from another project.  I cut a round piece and glued it to the plug flush with the ceiling.  Looks pretty good!  Most people would never even notice it, unless I point it out.

A couple more thoughts on the hole in the roof...  Covering the hole with a plate can be perfectly water-tight, AND if you ever decide down the road that you want to have the hole professionally repaired (Xtreme Paint & Graphics) it is easily removed.  Also, by leaving the hole in the roof sealed but accessible, it is available for future use.  For instance, we just had new solar panels installed on our coach, and they utilized one of the existing holes from our old satellite antenna to route the cables through the roof.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Total Roof Re-sealing

Reply #11 –
Chuck & Jeannie,

Thanks for the additional point re: filling the gap between the roof and the ceiling, as well as patching the wooly material.  Hadn't thought that far ahead because of the torrential Carolina rains we've either been mopping-up after or driving to escape.  Good point, too, about that roof penetration being useful for something else later.

We appreciate the help!  We're in Georgia continuing to wait-out the Carolina storms.  May not get started on the antenna removal soon, but we have a much better idea what we're up against now.  Thanks again, too, for the great photos.

The selected media item is not currently available.Richard & Susan Peck
____________________
1999 40' U320 "Bob Patrick"
(2000 4010 U320 WTFE Floor Plan, Single Slide)
Build #5567  |  MC #17522

Re: Total Roof Re-sealing

Reply #12 –
I had a minor leak around the edges of the shower skylight. I cleaned it and then masked about an inch on the roof and an inch on the skylight frame then sprayed Flex Seal over it.  I just came back from three days of heavy rain in Canada and it worked fine.
if you dril the end of the crack it will not travel further.  That is an old aviation trick used to stop cracks travelling in sheet metal or plexiglass.
Brian.
2001 U320 Build #5865
Daihatsu Rocky Toad
VW Touareg
'82 F100 Stepside
Beech' Debonair