Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Installation of Automotion Shades (Read 3142 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #25 –
When I did the shortening of the valances it did not make old holes visible but as you say the wall has a few from the old drapes and shades. I just filled them with paintable caulking then painted the wall while it was clear of everything. Did a sorta slight mettallic finish that blended wuth the material we used to cover the valances and really like the contrast. If you decide to paint the wall paper first use a mild TSP in water then wipe with a damp cloth and let dry. paint sticks better that way, and the holes are no more visible.

JohnH
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #26 –
Quote from: John Haygarth –
When I did the shortening of the valances it did not make old holes visible
John,

The holes to which I was referring were in the wood on the bottom of the cabinet. If you cut the sides down, you are moving the valence closer to the window, which would uncover the row of holes where the mounting screws were attached.

Or did the thickness of the trim at the top of the valence still cover the old holes?

Trent

Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #27 –
One tool that might be useful is a long square bit #2 driver. I found a package of two (from Senco) at Lowe's for $7.98, about 6,73" long. Looking online, The cheapest price was at Zoro Tools, which was $5.66 plus $5.00 shipping; free shipping if you spend at least $50.00 (easy to do at Zoro).

Senco Square Bit, 171 Mm, PK2 EA0298 | Zoro.com

BTW1: It really does pay to shop around. I found it on Amazon for sale by several different sellers. One was $9.95 plus free shipping; another one was $44.38 plus $4.49 shipping. Caveat Emptor!

BTW2: It might be better to use a bit holder with a screw finder to help get the driver bit to the right location on the screw head. Although not perfect, I did find it helpful on some of the stubborn screws.

Trent
Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #28 –

OEM Tools Brand. Five pack, 6" #2 square drive, impact rated bits, $9.97.  Impact rated bits are tougher and won't break off at the base in your driver socket.

#2 Square Impact Rated Power Bit - 6 inch - 5 Pack - - Amazon.com

Great bits,
come in #2 phillips drive as well
and in torx drive
and in 3"

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #29 –
Roger,
 
That is a great price for five of them!
 
Thanks,
 
Trent
Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #30 –
Trent, you are correct on the holes showing after Valance is back, so before it goes back use some brown wood filler and smooth it level with wood bottom and let dry. Then sand level (or put a touch more on as it does shrink while drying. Once all is done use a wood stain close to wood colour then just use 'wood doctor" or similar polish and really no one will see them unless they are lying in bed with you!!!!
JohnH
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #31 –
Trent,
I have a Metabo Power Maxx very compact screw driver gun that also has a drill chuck and a 90° attachment, two speed, variable torque settings, two batteries and a charger and a case. It was $69 at Rockler.  They don't seem to be available any more but there are others of similar size.  It is not a high powered impact driver by any means but perfect for installing hinges on cabinet doors or working in tight places in cabinets or inside everywhere in our Foretavels.  Very light weight, enough power for all of these tasks.  One thing I have found to be handy is that the recharger plugs into the wall and a cord plugs into the battery.  So if the battery is low you can plug it in and use it at the same time.

With long extensions and a hex to square drive bit you can turn 1/4" or 3/8" drive sockets, Handy for that AquaHot  annual service.

This is a must have in our coach (well for me anyway)
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #32 –
Quote from: TulsaTrent –
I also found the user manual for Automotion Shades, which I will upload this weekend. It spells out how to make the user adjustments for the height and speed of the shades.

It is not that next weekend, but here is the promised manual. I'm not sure how to move it from an attachment to the file of manuals. If SKS would tell me how to accomplish that , I will take care of it.

I do not have an MCD manual for comparison, but suspect at the least the manual adjustments would be similar.

Trent
Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #33 –
Interim Project Update Report #2:
 
I have not installed any more shades yet, but I have removed all of the valences and side pieces for the three windows on the forward side passenger side, forward of the bedroom. The header for the PS seat window is the same one that covers the living room window, so it is pretty long. What really helped me there were my two long HF blue pole assemblies that I can put on each end to hold it up while I go around and remove loosen the screws.
 
The problem facing me now is the depth of the valances (front to back); it is only 2 1/2". The bracket is 2" and the shade frame is 1 5/8"wide. That in itself is tight, but then you have two window shade rolls (the day shade rolling to the rear, and the night shade rolling to the front), it becomes very difficult. Together, they add enough thickness to eat up most of that room. Now, try getting some chubby fingers up in there to push the release lever and you have run out of room.
 
My engineer brain has been wrestling with this problem, and I think I might have come up with a solution. The anatomy of the valence consists of one long front piece, with two short side pieces attached with a miter joint. (I will add that picture again so you can visualize my description.) There is a squarish block around the inside of the top surface that is used to attach the valence to the cabinet "bottom." I earlier explained that I had to remove the short pieces on the ends. There are also some additional trim pieces to make it all look "prettier."
 
If I make a real header top, that gives me more strength in the header assembly *AND* makes it easier to attach the mounting brackets. It also provides a sturdier place to which to attach the brackets. I think that I could attach the top to the upper inside part of the existing header using 1 biscuit joint on each end and 2 - 4 biscuits on the back of the existing square mounting board. (The reason I want to retain that mounting board, is that it already has the screw holes located properly to line up with the existing holes in the cabinet "bottoms.") If it wasn't a Foretravel, you might get away with just screwing it together from the outside of the header, but that is not an option here. In addition to the existing screws, you could add two more (longer) screws at the wall to make the header attachment more solid, if required.
 
Another big advantage I see with this new header top is that I can work on it and install the brackets in a much more worker-friendly environment. On the first two I installed in the bedroom, I was standing and looking up at the cabinet bottom while trying to get the measurements and hole locations all precise. Not very comfortable at all! I know adding the top board and biscuit joints, will extend the installation time, but I think it will simplify the installation and definitely strengthen the final attachment.
 
That is my current design concept and installation plan. What do y'all think? Please provide any and all comments about this latest engineering proposal. I'm in uncharted territory and need all the help I can get.
 
Thanks,
 
Trent

Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #34 –
Trent, reading your post it sounds like you have a viable solution. I have never done this type of shade so forgive my ignorance, but is there any way that you can mount the rollers one on top and slightly behind the other so that the day and night shades would actually travel closer to the same path,and your mount depth would not come out as far from the wall?
Just a thought that occurred.
Looks like you're doing a great job!
Len
Len and Deb Speiser
1999 U270 36'
2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
You're either on the bus, or you're off the bus!--Ken Kesey
If you're lucky enough to live in a bus, you're lucky enough!

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #35 –
Hi Trent

It sounds like you are going to add a piece to fill in the top where there is just a small square piece now to make a solid section.  See sketch.  If that is what you are going to do then pocket screws would be a lot simpler than biscuits.  Maybe I am not getting what you are going to do.  This would give you a bigger area to mount your clips.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #36 –
Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 –
It sounds like you are going to add a piece to fill in the top where there is just a small square piece now to make a solid section.  See sketch.  If that is what you are going to do then pocket screws would be a lot simpler than biscuits.
Roger,
 
Your description and drawing are 100% right on!
 
I considered pocket screws. That is the way the window ledge is attached. I have never used them and do not (yet) have the tool to drill them. I have used biscuits many times and *thought* they might be easier to use. Will look into pocket screws as an option. My biggest concern with them is they are only going into that square bar. I guess i could put them into the ends, too, if necessary. Actually, I just realized I would need to install the two ends AND the front face at the same time; probably not doable.
 
Thanks for the design assistance.
 
Trent

Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #37 –

Trent,

This is about the simplest Kreg Jig you can get.  Jig, drill, collar

Kreg MKJKIT Mini Kreg Jig Kit - Pocket Hole Jigs - Amazon.com

The step drill in the jig makes a pocket at an angle and a pilot hole through the board.  The 1-1/4" coarse thread Kreg screws (for soft woods) drill their own hole into what you are attaching the piece to.  The collar sets the depth of the pocket. Snug the screws in and they will hold well.  Use a bit of glue if you want on the joints.  Use one screw about every eight inches or so.

There is a lot of stuff in your FT put together this way.  They work very well for concealed connections.


Roger

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #38 –
Roger,
 
Thanks for the link. I was going to get the Kreg kit and the screws at Amazon, but was concerned about the concomitant delay.
 
Went to Home Depot and found the identical items there, for the SAME price! Bought them with my 10% military discount, although the 8.89% sales tax ate up most of that bennie.
 
I have them now, and, ignoring the rain and cold over the next two days, have run out of excuses.
 
A couple more questions:
 
    Any reason to use a hardwood for the header top instead of white wood?
 
    You suggested coarse threads for #8 x 1 1/4" screws; are they better for this function than fine threads? I did notice that the points are extremely sharp!
 
Thanks again (and again and again) for your help,
 
Trent

Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #39 –
The 3/4"x3/4" strips are likely just pine. Kreg suggests the coarse threads for softer woods and the fine threads for hardwoods like oak or maple.  3/4" pine should be just fine for your added piece.  You can use 3/4" screws to hold the clips in place, plenty strong.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #40 –
On a related topic, I think I like the side valences not being installed. It seems to make the RV look bigger. Although it might also be the absence of any covering over the windows. Since the sides are independent from the rest of the valance/header assembly, I may leave them off at first to see how we like it.
 
Trent
Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385

Re: Installation of Automotion Shades

Reply #41 –
Interim Project Update Report # 3

The time has come to install the Automotion shades in the windshield. I have been putting this off because of the degree of difficulty, but here goes. I have removed the three round speakers in the upper deck. That leaves three large holes. (The existing Sony speakers, already mounted in the corners under the cabinets, will be used.)

The selected media item is not currently available.          The selected media item is not currently available.
There is a bulge in front of the speaker hole on the right. I assumed that it had been caused by water leaks. A closer look at that picture reveals that it is not a leak problem. I think the screw for the speaker was too close to the edge, and the plywood split into separate layers, causing the bulge.




The selected media item is not currently available.That closeup picture also reveals the construction of the upper deck. It appears to have a layer of plywood (about 1/2") above a finished sandwich consisting of thin plywood (about 3/16"), a thin foam layer, and the finished vinyl surface. There are several screws across the front of it (near the windshield) and another row of screws along the strip that runs along the top of the vinyl covered valance board that runs below the cabinets. I removed all those screws, hoping to remove the (holy) upper deck. Unfortunately, the two layers of plywood appear to be glued together! They are not coming down easily.


If you can't beat them, join them. Plan B, is to cut two pieces of 1/2" plywood, to fit from each side towards the center. That will leave a center section about 3" wide that I will install. (I toyed with the idea of using one piece of plywood cut to fit over the existing upper deck, but decided, working by myself, that an 8' 3" piece would be too hard to cut accurately, let alone install.) This new plywood will be the base to mount the brackets for the two windshield Automotion shades. It will also let me compress that bulged area near the speaker hole.

I used furniture grade plywood with oak finish. I plan to use counter-sunk wood screws to securely fasten it to the upper deck. I haven't decided how to finish it, yet. I can try to stain it to match the color of the existing cherry cabinets. I can paint it; probably the quickest method. Or I can get some vinyl material and attach it to the wood, similar to the way the dash top is covered. The biggest problem with that method is the screws will require more finishing work, including a snap fitting and a button to cover the screws.

So many options, so little time.

Anyone got any suggestions or recommendations for me? All advice eagerly accepted.

Thanks,

Trent


Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385