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Topic: rusted bay floor frame (Read 3554 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: rusted bay floor frame - update

Reply #50 –
The frame is at Xtreme and one side of the Filon has been glued on.  The directions say "apply pressure after gluing".
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No, they didn't chop down a tree just for this.
Larry Rubin
2004 U295 38' build 6278
2014 Jeep Cherokee

Re: rusted bay floor frame

Reply #51 –
How did this turn out?
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: rusted bay floor frame

Reply #52 –
Sorry for not posting earlier.  We are back in the coach now and at Xtreme to have the work finished that originally brought us to NAC.  The whole project took about 6 weeks with me helping by cleaning and touch up painting.  There are a LOT of connections that require drilling and many, many bolts/screws/clips etc etc.

The 6 weeks wasn't all work time and of course, it could have gone quicker with more people working on it and since the coach was outside we had to wait out several rainy days.  (If you have been to Bernd's shop then you know how tight it is and how they do most of their work outside.)

After installing stainless steel end bulkheads, bolting on the frame, and reinstalling everything there were about 5 problems that needed attention.  All but 1 have gotten fixed.  The problems involved mislabeled connections and some water plumbing leaks that required new fittings.  The worse (in terms of mess) problem was with the blank tank valve.  When I dumped, the valve opened but didn't close - of course, I didn't know that so this morning when I needed to dump again, the black tank started dumping as soon as I removed the safety cover.  I always put a small basin under the drain for misshapes like this so I was able to catch almost all of the "stuff".  The last problem involves the Javelina tank monitors.  I will post a separate entry about that.

Under the topic of what I would do differently, the only thing might be to use stainless steel instead of the Filon covering the top and bottom of the frame.  I know there is a weight issue, but it would have saved some time and might have made assembly easier.    Also the gray and black tanks had to be removed after they were reinstalled because the PEX water tubing didn't line up with their connections.  The 20 or so connections need to be correctly placed relative to the plumbing coming down into the bays. 

My insurance is covering a lot of the work under comprehensive.  I don't have a final from them as to how much.  As to cause of the problem to begin with, I am still don't have one thing to point to.  I'm sure the damage took a long time to get as bad as it was and there must have been many small leaks especially in the four corners.
Larry Rubin
2004 U295 38' build 6278
2014 Jeep Cherokee

Re: rusted bay floor frame

Reply #53 –
Larry, you mention the 4 corners and that got me thinking about what I have found over  a while on our 2000 and those 4 corners.
FT made vents behind the front wheels ( long slits with deflector panels) I guess for venting but I found an awful lot of road mess and water was able to intrude into each front bay. I could not understand why they were always wet and dirty when I bought coach so investigated it and now I have sealed these up and bays are dry and clean. The rear ones in front of tires have a similar setup so they too have been fixed. I did not know why it needed these vents as there are big ones under propane tank. The other place I found water and dirt was from the drop down hatch for dump line. I rebuilt it then put foam seal tape around edge and now have a short piece of alum'n sheeting that I bent as a deflector to direct road trash away from both the front and back of this hatch. I have one also for the propane tank vent hole so this inside of bay areas is now clean and dry. Check yours out and see if you have these long vertical vents.
JohnH
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: rusted bay floor frame

Reply #54 –
Quote from: John Haygarth –
FT made vents behind the front wheels ( long slits with deflector panels) I guess for venting but I found an awful lot of road mess and water was able to intrude into each front bay.
Are the vents in the sheet metal that covers the area just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels?  I refer to these as the bulkheads.  I do remember vents there.  The sheet metal on my coach was rusted up quite a ways on my coach and were replaced with stainless.  The front one is one piece of metal.  The rear one is actually a sandwich of two metal sheets with 3/4 inch blue foam insulation - the same as used between the metal tubes making up the frame.  Vents were not cut into this new metal.

I also had made simple aluminum covers for the round vents by the propane tank and the open areas below each end of the fuel tank to reduce dirt and water from entering that bay.  They are 3 sided leaving the rear open. 

I like your idea for the dump hatch.  My new frame has extra metal lining the 3 sides of the hatch and I reworked the hatch itself so there is a better fit  than the original.  I'll add an aluminum deflector.  I have always put a folded microfiber cloth in the hatch area as a simple way to catch road dirt and water - but improving the hatch design will help.
Larry Rubin
2004 U295 38' build 6278
2014 Jeep Cherokee

Re: rusted bay floor frame

Reply #55 –
Those vents are right in front of the air bags on the "bulkhead sheet metal walls as you mention. I have included some older pics of them and the sewer hatch cover I extended and put the foam around,and, the 2 deflectors I mentioned also one for the propane vent. Hatch cover looks messy as I had been working on area when I took it.
JohnH
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: rusted bay floor frame

Reply #56 –
For keeping water and dirt out of the propane/fuel bay, build a "U" out of 3/4 to 1" square aluminum tubing.  With the "U" closed to the front, open to the back.

Cover with a sheet of aluminum or fiberglass.  This will keep road splash out, but allow any propane leak to vent.

Mike may be able to post a picture of it-- assume it is still on our old U240.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
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