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Topic: Lock Actuator Problems - Stuck Bay Door (Read 663 times) previous topic - next topic

Lock Actuator Problems - Stuck Bay Door

I know this is a tired subject that has been discussed before, but this situation is a bit different.  I've actually opened two other stuck doors and replaced the actuators before but today I've met my match!

One of my bay doors does not open bus style but instead tips up on a hinge.  Because of this, instead of having 4 latches it has 2 latches on the side, connected to the handle by 2 very thick bars.  When the bus style door actuator freezes, you can open the door by pulling on each cable individually with a coat hanger until you get the door open.  No matter what, where or how hard I pull on these two bars, I CANNOT get the door open.  There is just no play in the system so I can't flex the bars enough to unlatch the latches.  I've tried forcing the actuator too and haven't had much luck.  I can't get the latches unlocked.  I was trying to use the awning bar to open the latches when I finally gave up for the evening.  It's looking more and more like I'll have to force the door open and repair the fiberglass.

Anyone have the secret?  I am pretty stumped.

Re: Lock Actuator Problems - Stuck Bay Door

Reply #1 –
any chance of a picture? I don't have your style door
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Lock Actuator Problems - Stuck Bay Door

Reply #2 –
Hi Mark,

Is the stuck door opposite to a door on the other side of the coach? Maybe you can crawl through to activate the lock manually. Small children can be very helpful.
Jim Frerichs
2002 U320 42'

Re: Lock Actuator Problems - Stuck Bay Door

Reply #3 –
Quote from: Jim Frerichs –
Hi Mark,

Is the stuck door opposite to a door on the other side of the coach? Maybe you can crawl through to activate the lock manually. Small children can be very helpful.

Sadly no, wouldn't that be convenient?  This door is in front of the water and waste tanks.  Also I don't have any pictures because it's so hard to see anything in there through the tiny crack.

Re: Lock Actuator Problems - Stuck Bay Door

Reply #4 –
Quote from: craneman –
any chance of a picture? I don't have your style door

It's pretty similar to the flip up generator side bay door (very front most driver side) which you may have.  That one just has one bar instead of 2, and the latch is on the bottom instead of the sides. 

Re: Lock Actuator Problems - Stuck Bay Door

Reply #5 –
I an getting a picture of what you are talking about now. Have you tried the key and the remote at the same time? And do you have any access through a space on the bottom where electrical and hoses pass through. If it has the same sliding latch mine has you could use a knife to slide it to drop the door and maybe pull the latches from there.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Lock Actuator Problems - Stuck Bay Door

Reply #6 –
If it is like mine, the sewer door is held on by 2 or 3 screws at the back. You can unscrew those and the hinge mechanism should come free. Mine has two slide locks at the front, but you may be able to slide the sewer door towards the center of the coach and open enough room to get your hand up into the space.

Good luck!

Trent
Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385

Re: Lock Actuator Problems - Stuck Bay Door

Reply #7 –
All the doors on my '96 are the hinge type.
I have had to unlock a couple of them.

If you have another like it you can see how the mechanism works and visualize my solution a little better.

1) pry the weather stripping off at one of the bottom  edges. (you may not have to take the entire bottom off). You want to free enough space along the bottom to look up on the inside see the latch on the side of the door.

2) If there is enough room for your head to slide between the coach and the ground you should be able to see the latching mechanism and the pull rod that comes from the center of the door.

3) I used a steel ruler with a notch in it to push UP on the edge of the rod close to the latch.
John S. suggested a long screwdriver. Someone else suggested a flat stick.

I did have to raise the coach and block it to get enough space to stick my head under and shine a light to fine the right place to push.  Again I pushed UP on the rod next to the latch on the side.

shoot me a PM if you need more info
hth
Elliott & Mary Bray
ex. 1996 36' U295 - Build 4879
ex. 2018 Coachmen Leprechaun 319MB
 

Re: Lock Actuator Problems - Stuck Bay Door

Reply #8 –
Thanks for everyone's help.  I revisited this and this is the only way to get the job done in my case.  I am quite certain of that, I pulled on those latch rods with arm breaking force.

First the bus style doors have 4 latches and a plastic cover which make this method difficult to impossible.  With the bus style doors you need to pull on each cable individually.

With these flip up doors with heavy bars that connect the handle to the latches, there is no cover.  Pull off the bottom weather strip and wedge the door open as far as you can without damaging it.  Then use any kind of rigid metal bar to go up to where the lock actuator attaches to the lock mechanism.  First pop off the plastic retainer clip, then you can easily release the actuator bar.  Then you can use the key to unlock the door.  There is no way to pop off the latch bars as they are bolted to the handle mechanism.

This was the *only* way I was getting this door open.  Thanks for everyone's suggestions!

Re: Lock Actuator Problems - Stuck Bay Door

Reply #9 –
Quote from: Mark D –
First pop off the plastic retainer clip, then you can easily release the actuator bar.  Then you can use the key to unlock the door.

Mark,

Could you please explain this final step?

Regarding the flip-up doors with the actuator bars..........................I have an idea to run a cable from one bear claw latch to the other so it would be easy to open a door if a stuck handle mechanism doesn't allow it.

Run a cable from each bear claw activator to the opposite bear claw and through one of the hollow rivets, allowing it to hang down below the bottom of the door in between the two latches.  The cable can be held to the door above the rubber weatherstrip with some masking tape,  and in the event that the handle mechanism gets stuck a bent coat hanger can be stuck between the door and gasket to grab the cable and pull it down below the door bottom, tearing the tape to do so.  Then it's just a matter of pulling on the cable and releasing the latches.

I'll let you know if it works.

Re: Lock Actuator Problems - Stuck Bay Door

Reply #10 –
Quote from: Traveling Man –
Mark,

Could you please explain this final step?

Regarding the flip-up doors with the actuator bars..........................I have an idea to run a cable from one bear claw latch to the other so it would be easy to open a door if a stuck handle mechanism doesn't allow it.

Run a cable from each bear claw activator to the opposite bear claw and through one of the hollow rivets, allowing it to hang down below the bottom of the door in between the two latches.  The cable can be held to the door above the rubber weatherstrip with some masking tape,  and in the event that the handle mechanism gets stuck a bent coat hanger can be stuck between the door and gasket to grab the cable and pull it down below the door bottom, tearing the tape to do so.  Then it's just a matter of pulling on the cable and releasing the latches.

I'll let you know if it works.

In my case it won't work because the lock prevents the handle from moving which prevents the metal bars from moving.  Pulling on the latches only gets you whatever play you have in the system as well as however much you can bend the bars.  All of my time spent trying to do this was a waste.  What worked for me instead was coming up from the bottom (after removing the bottom seal).  Look at where the power actuator connects to the handle mechanism.  There is a little plastic retainer clip that flips away from the actuator bar, you flip that, then you can push outwards on the power actuator connection rod and it pops out of the main handle mechanism.  At that point nothing resists the key moving to the unlock position and you're good to go. 

By all means try to open the locked (!! - make sure it's locked for a valid test - !!) bars from the latches themselves.  It wouldn't work for me.  It DID work on the cable actuated bay style doors, no problem.

Re: Lock Actuator Problems - Stuck Bay Door

Reply #11 –
Ok this is the way you get in.
First you raise the coach all the way up. 
Second pull the weatherstripping out with a needle nose pliers from the bottom.
You will need a long screwdriver flat type and no bigger then a 1/4 and about 18 inches long. 
Get a flashlight and look up under the coach thru the hole you just made and reach up and push the plastic clip off the actuator arm. Look at a good door and see the plastic part and you just push it up and off and then the bar will pull out and you can now unlock it with your key.
2025 Wanderbox Outpost 32 on F600 Expedition Motorhome
2015 Born Free Royal Splendor on Ford 550 nonslide version  for sale
Former Coaches  covering. 360,000 miles
1999 34 U270
2000 36 U320
2001 42' double slide U320
2018 Jeep Rubicon

Re: Lock Actuator Problems - Stuck Bay Door

Reply #12 –
All I am trying to do is have cables attached to all latch releases that can be accessed by merely reaching up inside the door bottom,
instead of having to lay on the ground, remove the gasket, etc.  On my coach the two radiator doors have similar single-cable set-ups.

By running the cable across to the other latch and through the hollow rivet the direction of pull is ideal to exert the most pressure on
the release mechanism as well as the aluminum bars.  My bars seem to have enough flexibility that they'll bend under pressure and allow the latch to open...........but maybe not.