Re: help! broken down! Alternator Issues
Reply #121 –
The photo posted by the walkers does not look like a Series 25 Powerline (see diagram in manual linked in reply #106 above).
Their photo shows a simple "self-exciting" alternator hookup. There is no "IGN" (hot with ignition on) wire (the small jumper wire going under the cover plate may provide that function). The small gauge wire going to the "Voltage Sensing Terminal" should read "Start Battery" voltage at all times. The big cable on the left is ground (-). The big output cable on the right goes to the center post on the isolator. That's all there is to it...
It should take about 5 minutes to check the operation of this alternator, using a simple multimeter.
Check (-) ground cable is good. Check voltage on "Sense" wire is the same voltage as the start battery positive (+) terminal. With the engine off, the big (+) cable on the right should show the same voltage as the center post on the isolator (see note below). When the engine is started, the voltage on the big (+) cable on the right should jump up to around 14 volts. If it does, the alternator is working.
Note: With the engine off, you may actually read some voltage on the center post of the isolator. In a perfect world, under these conditions, a diode based isolator should show zero voltage on the center post. If any is present, it is attributed to "leakage backwards through the diodes". Some will say this means the isolator is faulty...others will say this is "phantom" voltage and does not affect the functioning of the isolator. I'm in the second camp, because this is how my isolator behaves. Since it ALSO does its job just fine, I don't worry about it. I didn't even want to mention this whole "Leaky Diode" anomaly, to avoid confusing the present issue. But somebody will probably bring it up, so...I did.