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Topic: Residential Fridge Power Options (Read 824 times) previous topic - next topic

Residential Fridge Power Options

I thought I would start a new thread about the power options for a residential fridge installation.
I will also be installing a new Duo Therm induction cook top. I was thinking about removing the the propane tank and adding a new 8d and inverter. Is that overkill?
Would appreciate other ideas.
Rick & Deborah Webster
2002 3610 U320 #5964
2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara JKU- 'Copperhead'
Richland Chambers Lake, East Texas

Re: Residential Fridge Power Options

Reply #1
No, I have an all electric coach and love it. Would not go back to a propane coach.
'07 Phenix Double slide, Bunk beds, 42'
'14 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon

Re: Residential Fridge Power Options

Reply #2
115v cooktop I presume? One or two burner?
Tim Fiedler    2025 LTV Unity MBL on Order
2000 Chevy Tracker 2 Door Convertible 4WD Now lifted 4.5"
1985 Citroen 2CV6 Charleston
Murphy Rebel on wheels with 175HP Titan
Cessna P337
1980 48' Westport MY (!/4 Share)

Re: Residential Fridge Power Options

Reply #3
I thought I would start a new thread about the power options for a residential fridge installation.
I will also be installing a new Duo Therm induction cook top. I was thinking about removing the the propane tank and adding a new 8d and inverter. Is that overkill?
Would appreciate other ideas.

A fourth identical condition and capacity battery to raise your amp hours to 900 or more would be helpful if dry camping.

Unequal lenght cabling will vary the actusl usefulness of a remote fourth  battery.

Rotation of the batteries to equalize their wear is always recommended.

If you camp pole to pole the fourth battery is probably not as needed.

Factory went with a 160 amp alternator and a 130 amp charger with three 8'd's

A bigger alternator is available but not a higher charge rate inverter/charger.  Probably why busses use two inverter/chargers.

20% of the battery banks amp hour capacity in charge rate is from what I have read is considered a safe charge rate.

Roughly what Foretravel setup for three house batteries.


"Riding and rejoicing"
Bob
1997 U320 40' Mid entry, build 5132,  wtbi ce27, 4th owner
2007 Solara convertible
2 prodeco tech outlaw ss electric bikes

1095 watts solar
08 Ls 460 and a sc430
2000 Ford F-250 superduty 4x4

Re: Residential Fridge Power Options

Reply #4
Does your coach currently have propane space heaters?  If so, minus propane, what are you planning to use for heating?  Here is one possibility:

CheapHeat
His coach should have A.H.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Residential Fridge Power Options

Reply #5
I thought I would start a new thread about the power options for a residential fridge installation.
I will also be installing a new Duo Therm induction cook top. I was thinking about removing the the propane tank and adding a new 8d and inverter. Is that overkill?
Would appreciate other ideas.
It is alway nice to have backup heat if your aqua-hot goes out. A stovetop will do that. I have a 1 burner induction cooktop, I put on top of the gas one. My wife prefers it to the gas. You can also install a 4th battery to increase your dry camping time, and a inverter just to power the fridge.
A small inverter for the fridge will reduce the parasitic loads that your big inverter has.
I have a 600 watt inverter just for the fridge and only run the big one for the micro etc.
Jim C.
coachfree, previous 1997, 1999, 2000, and 2003 Foretravels.

Re: Residential Fridge Power Options

Reply #6
Rick, it depends on how much time you want not plugged in and not driving and what you are using.  If it is 5 degrees out and we are heading south in the winter there is a much different mix of equipment being used with different power needs than in the summer.  My goal is an easy 16-24 hour unplugged overnight running the refrigerator, AquaHot, entertainment and lighting in the middle of January while heading to someplace warm with no generator needed.

My plan is to remove the LP tank and put in either two or four L16 size 6 volt batteries

http://www.atbatt.com/fullriver-dc1150-2-deep-cycle-agm-battery-903-l16.asp?gclid=CPjEoouiq84CFUUcaQoddwAKgw

wired in series and parallel to get 1150 amp hrs or 2300 amp hrs @ 20 hrs with a 1000 watt Magnum Pure Sine Wave (PSW) inverter to run the refrig and a few low power use outlets. This gets you away from having to age match to the existing batteries when adding a fourth and fifth (and sixrh and seventh). By isolating them you have two age sequences going and they don't have to be replaced all at once.  If you are using an induction cook top that will run off the big inverter or the land line (as will the MW/Convection oven).  I am keeping the gas cook top and going to a 2 or 5 lb refillable tank. One fill should last for months.  You can run the LP gas stove on the green throwaway LP tanks.  Not sure of the rules for that yet.  A one lb bottle would last us a month.  We have a single burner induction cooktop that is very nice. We use it outside often when we don't want to cook inside. (Red beans and rice tonight, for example)

I am adding switching to the circuit that runs all of the front overhead stuff to either run on land line, the main inverter or a small 400 watt PSW inverter which lets me shut off the big inverter and still be entertained.

I put in a new 240 amp Delco brushless alternator that will power a Sterling Alternator to Battery Charger (a very smart isolator). One side goes to the start batteries.  The other side goes to a Sterling ZeroVoltageDrop Isolator (already in use) which will isolate the two house banks and provides more smart charging management.  And I have a Sterling smart charger that charges the start batteries and the new L16 batteries when plugged in. And it can charge the original house batteries as well if you don't want the big  charger on.

The new Delco is doing what the LN never did, actually fully charge the batteries under load while driving. After a couple hrs of driving the start and house batteries are at 100%.  The Sterling A2B charger acts as a smart voltage regulator to more efficiently charge the batteries.  With no voltage drop across the Sterling zero voltage loss splitter efficiency is improved and power is directed where it is needed.

A new 3000 watt inverter/charger that is much more efficient would be nice but the one I have works and all of the new parts I am adding will cost less (well maybe not if I go for four batteries.)

Lots of alternatives. Solar too. Some like gel batteries. What you choose to fit your needs will likely be different from someone elses. I don't think there is a perfect one size fits all solution but there is a great one for you out there.  There are some folks here that have spent some time thinking about this and some great resources too.

Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Residential Fridge Power Options

Reply #7
I had a 2006 all electric Phenix that had 6 8d batteries for the house.  In 2008 they went to 6 4d batteries for the house as a way to reduce weight and the overall capacity change was not that significant with 6 batteries.  The coach does have a 360 amp alternator and a 3000 inverter.  So converting to all electric can easily be done but you need to keep in mind total capacity and the length of time for the draw as well as the draw itself.

Re: Residential Fridge Power Options

Reply #8
Wow, great stuff here and a lot to think about.  Thanks for the replies.
For those that have removed their propane tank, do you think the weight of the tank is about what the weight of a new 8d and inverter would be? I want to keep the weight balance as close as I can to current setup. One concern I have about a stand alone battery/inverter is how to get the wiring to and from the new battery/inverter to the new fridge and engine compartment.

We have been using a True Induction MD-2B Mini Duo Portable Counter Inset Double Burner Induction Cooktop, 120V, Black and really like the 2nd burner. It will almost fit in the original stove's cutout.
Rick & Deborah Webster
2002 3610 U320 #5964
2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara JKU- 'Copperhead'
Richland Chambers Lake, East Texas

Re: Residential Fridge Power Options

Reply #9
I don't see an exact match but tank and propane is about 150 lb.  tank alone maybe 80lb. Typical 8ds are 167 lb each.

The tall L16 size will get closer to the center. Your batteries are already in the middle.  Have you done a 4 corner weigh?  Good thing to think about wt balance.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Residential Fridge Power Options

Reply #10
It will almost fit in the original stove's cutout.

Rick,
 
Did you find a way to make it fit?
 
Thanks,
 
Trent


Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385

Re: Residential Fridge Power Options

Reply #11
Roger, that L-16 battery you reference is a 2 volt. I know that you know the ramifications of that difference to a 6 volt L-16.
George and Jan Sanders
2003 Country Coach 42 Ft Magna

Re: Residential Fridge Power Options

Reply #12
Wow, great stuff here and a lot to think about.  Thanks for the replies.
For those that have removed their propane tank, do you think the weight of the tank is about what the weight of a new 8d and inverter would be? I want to keep the weight balance as close as I can to current setup. One concern I have about a stand alone battery/inverter is how to get the wiring to and from the new battery/inverter to the new fridge and engine compartment.

We have been using a True Induction MD-2B Mini Duo Portable Counter Inset Double Burner Induction Cooktop, 120V, Black and really like the 2nd burner. It will almost fit in the original stove's cutout.



If your budget allows you could look at getting lithium batteries, more amp hours and considerably less weight.
'07 Phenix Double slide, Bunk beds, 42'
'14 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon