Re: Engine hatch changes by extreme- advantage? Reply #20 – August 30, 2016, 04:51:38 pm I agree with Michelle. Clearly if you like your rear hatch or rear ladder as it is then do nothing. If you want to do something else then do that. The OP asked about advantages to rear hatch changes. We can each do as we choose. I am not going to be critical of your choices just as I would hope you would respect mine. Be careful not to wander off topic.That being said, I have a factory original rear hatch and ladder that work well for me. But you should see the custom lighting in my engine bay. Quote Selected
Re: Engine hatch changes by extreme- advantage? Reply #21 – August 30, 2016, 06:04:36 pm Michelle, I did not intend to be critical of anyone who has the conversion, I just didn't understand why except for cosmetics why the conversions were done. On my coach if you don't lift it high enough to latch it, the bottom is in your face and you have to duck to get under it. Drier climate may have something to do with not having any rust and I don't know what the star nuts are. I see the three screws you are talking about on the side of each rung, but me, under 200 lbs. doesn't seem to be a problem. Quote Selected
Re: Engine hatch changes by extreme- advantage? Reply #22 – August 30, 2016, 06:42:09 pm Trent,The rusted Star nuts I am referring to are in the stand off tubes themselves. There are two in each stand off, one in either end. There are ¼-20 screws that hole the vertical section of the latter with a shaped plastic insert on the ladder upright, and a flat head ¼-20 screw that comes through the back of the cast foot. The screws that hold the feet to the coach are either #12 or #14 oval head Stainless Steel. To remove the stand off tubes from the coach, merely remove the two oval head screws and break the bead of caulking. To remove the star nuts, if they don't just fall out in pieces, I used a punch from the other end withe the center of the foot placed over a hole so the screw had somewhere to go. The star nut was so brittle, it just imploded on the first tap. If it is in better shape, use some liquid wrench and soak it for a while and then try an impact driver on the flat head screw. Just varies depending on how rusted the star nuts are.DonQuote from: TulsaTrent – August 30, 2016, 02:49:01 pm Don, I backed into something on the way home from purchasing our Foretravel a couple of years ago. I removed all of the bottom section except the standoff locations. Those star nuts seem to be rusted through and I have a hard time getting a grip on them to unscrew them. What was your secret to removing yours (maybe no rust)? Maybe it's a two-person job and I need to get Jean involved. Any assistance or advice appreciated. Thanks,Trent Quote Selected
Re: Engine hatch changes by extreme- advantage? Reply #23 – August 30, 2016, 06:56:47 pm Hans,I used some ¼-20 stainless steel carriage bolts from the ladder upright side into a stainless coupling nut withe a ¼-20 stainless flat head screw from the back of the foot. I will try to find a picture of two that shows it.Hans,I used some ¼-20 stainless steel carriage bolts from the ladder upright side into a stainless coupling nut, a lock washer, a standard nut, and some loctite thread locker on one side of the coupling nut. I then used a ¼-20 stainless flat head screw from the back of the foot. I will try to find a picture or two that shows it.DonQuote from: Hans&Marjet – August 30, 2016, 04:31:56 pm Modified the lower portion long ago to eliminate the rusting star nut problem.Don..can you elaborate on modification for the lower portionThxHans Quote Selected
Re: Engine hatch changes by extreme- advantage? Reply #24 – August 30, 2016, 07:42:28 pm Love the hatch mod....but $4000 buys a LOT of love ! Quote Selected
Re: Engine hatch changes by extreme- advantage? Reply #25 – August 30, 2016, 07:45:42 pm I believe the original question was asked from the standpoint of whether or not the original engine hatch/ladder set up was deficient and the that perhaps a near $5K conversion should be factored into his purchase decision. Perhaps I was reading in too much, but just trying to be helpful, not critical of those who have done it. Naturally, those who have invested in the conversion waxed enthusiastic about it. I merely wanted to present the idea that the original design, if in good shape, is a going concern. I love the wide open access it provides. In fact, I have had almost as many comments in campgrounds from people who saw the wide open engine access as from people admiring the condition of the coach. That said, I like the other hatch designs as well. If there were some serious damage that affected the original design, I would certainly consider redoing it. To me, the step conversion was much more desirable modification at a somewhat similar price point. These types of mods are nice enhancements to what was originally a superlatively conceived and executed design, but the lack of them is not a deal killer for a well maintained but otherwise un-enhanced vintage Foretravel.DonQuote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 – August 30, 2016, 04:51:38 pmI agree with Michelle. Clearly if you like your rear hatch or rear ladder as it is then do nothing. If you want to do something else then do that. The OP asked about advantages to rear hatch changes. We can each do as we choose. I am not going to be critical of your choices just as I would hope you would respect mine. Be careful not to wander off topic.That being said, I have a factory original rear hatch and ladder that work well for me. But you should see the custom lighting in my engine bay. Quote Selected
Re: Engine hatch changes by extreme- advantage? Reply #26 – August 30, 2016, 08:25:37 pm Since ladders were mentioned in this topic, will see if I can sneak in a warning about the rear ladder.FOR ME....not saying for anyone else.....Rudy, and a couple of friends on the Forum....suggested I not rely upon the couch ladder for IF you slip, you can get caught hanging upside down. SO, I got a step ladder to climb up as far as I could and then transition to the coach ladder. Now however I have gone "a step" further with a ladder that I can go all the way to the roof....I do use the coach ladder to help keep my longer ladder from sliding over.Thanks to Dave Cobb and Xtreme and Rudy and few other for discussions on this, warnings. Am sure all you others have it figured out probably better than I, but as Dave M says....do what makes you happy. And I am happier when feeling less at risk on ladders, for I do not really like them or heights.Be safemike Quote Selected
Re: Engine hatch changes by extreme- advantage? Reply #27 – August 30, 2016, 08:35:14 pm There are push-in star nuts inside the open-end of the round tubes. They are normal threaded nuts mounted in the center of outward facing steel points that grab the inside of the tube when pulled out. They are not screwed in, they push into the tubes, but will not pull out. To remove an already inserted star nut, reach in with long nose pliers or flat screwdriver and bend enough of the points to un-grab the inside of the tube. Those long bolts that secure the ladder to the coach use the star nuts, and even though the ladder feels very secure some of the star nuts may be rust compromised. Quote Selected
Re: Engine hatch changes by extreme- advantage? Reply #28 – August 30, 2016, 08:35:15 pm We use a 8' $80 Lowe's / HD common "A" aluminum ladder to reach almost to the roof and then step onto the last few steps of the upper RV ladder. Ladder is bungeed to RV ladder for safety when we go up, and stores in our 1-piece Joey Bed, with 1/2" to spare behind each bay door. Ladder also comes in handy cleaning coach and washing windshield. Ladder is sturdy, relatively inexpensive, safer than collapsible styles, light weight and narrow enough to fit in the height of our bay Shop Werner 8-ft Aluminum 250-lb Type I Step Ladder at Lowes.com Quote Selected
Re: Engine hatch changes by extreme- advantage? Reply #29 – August 30, 2016, 11:42:27 pm We discussed converting our rear hatch at Xtreme while there for emergency roof repairs about two weeks ago. James, Gregg and Rance chimed in: easier entry, less weight, flexing and the mod reduces the chance of extending the crack coming from the center bottom of our hatch near the hitch. They felt not every coach has to have this. The expression, "the hatch is like a potato chip" rings in my noggin. Think flex/stress. Weight.Resulted in our decision to wait on it for now. Our situation is manageable. We're going for FBP this winter w/ them. The ladder replacement was a no brainier. My old one is pictured on the right with the replacement to its left. A crew stepped and discovered the rust. Replaced at FT for less than the cost of an MRI or fuzzy X-ray . Say, $150? One last word regarding Xtreme:We rammed into Xtreme's workweek with only a few days warning --with Hail Damage to all the stuff on our roof. They were as gracious as ever. They got us in & out in a day, repaired one of my beloved Kool-O'Matics, old 'Fridge vent, replaced Skylight over shower (using my FOT Part), the Max Air vents and the Dometic AC shroud! I trust these guys a bunch as you can tell...Paul Quote Selected
Re: Engine hatch changes by extreme- advantage? Reply #30 – August 30, 2016, 11:49:50 pm Paul, those step plastic parts weather out on all of them. My Brother Geoff and I decided to fix both of ours on the coach's by him making some S Steel half pipe brkts with a flat piece to support right across the cross section of the aluminum step and these pieces are held to the vertical step tubing with a SSteel screw drilled into the tubing. Not going anywhere now and will support a heavy person with ease. I did post a year ago with pictures but have not found it.JohnHRoof ladder end capsposting 18 shows them Quote Selected
Topic: Engine hatch changes by extreme- advantage?