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Topic: Replacing A/C condenser (Read 492 times) previous topic - next topic

Replacing A/C condenser

This project just keeps getting better!  I'm finishing up replacing my muffler with the Aero AT5050.  While the old exhaust was out, I decided to remove rust and "detail" the area while everything was exposed.  I decided to replace the A/C accumulator (dryer), since it was rusty and looked like it might be the original.  Unfortunately, the connections were frozen and broke off when I tried to disconnect them.  We've decided to replace the condenser as well as the hoses (rusted connectors), but need some help in locating replacements.  My operator's manual has nothing on it.
Has anyone else had to deal with this problem?  Can I also get the frame for it as well or will I have to have that fabricated?  Thanks for any information.
2000 U320 mid entry  #5688
2006 Jeep Liberty


USMCR retired
SDFD retired
FEMA US&R TF8

Re: Replacing A/C evaporator

Reply #1 –
That is the condenser. I had problems changing the drier filter too. Corrosion  X helped. a generic condenser of the same size will work, but you will have to have hoses made up to match it. I think the frame might be salvageable , but if not fabricate.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Replacing A/C evaporator

Reply #2 –
For the hoses I would find a shop somewhere near you that would make new ones.Can you pull the old ones out?If you can
tie a string to them so you could pull the new ones in,then take the old ones to the shop and have them make duplicates.

Give us some feedback on the resonator.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Replacing A/C evaporator

Reply #3 –
You don't have to replace the long hose to the dash, cut the end off and go to an automotive a/c shop and get a splice then make the new end match the fitting on the condenser. The splices work I have R-12 (very expensive) in my crane and have the splices they are over 5 years old and still no leaks. You can do the same with the one gong to the compressor if you want.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Replacing A/C evaporator

Reply #4 –
That's great information - especially about being able to splice.  You are right about the evaporator - that should be at the other end of the coach.  I removed the condenser and it looks like it is in pretty good shape, but the frame really needs some refinishing.  I'll bring the unit to the local A/C shop and have them check it out and, hopefully, remove the hose connections.  Thankfully, I won't need any R12 (big problem when I was doing my car restoration).
Resonator project is going well.  Thanks to Barry and his entry where he listed all the parts for his ISM, my job is much easier than it would have been.  The only extra parts I needed were two sleeves to connect the muffler to the elbow and tip.  The trick is to keep most of the clamps fairly loose until you get the alignment right.  I also bought a turbo blanket and a roll of the "titanium" webbing.  It's surprising how expensive the exhaust parts are, but I'm saving a bundle in labor.
2000 U320 mid entry  #5688
2006 Jeep Liberty


USMCR retired
SDFD retired
FEMA US&R TF8

Re: Replacing A/C evaporator

Reply #5 –
Quote from: Sven and Kristi –
That's great information - especially about being able to splice.  You are right about the evaporator - that should be at the other end of the coach.  I removed the condenser and it looks like it is in pretty good shape, but the frame really needs some refinishing.  I'll bring the unit to the local A/C shop and have them check it out and, hopefully, remove the hose connections.  Thankfully, I won't need any R12 (big problem when I was doing my car restoration).
Resonator project is going well.  Thanks to Barry and his entry where he listed all the parts for his ISM, my job is much easier than it would have been.  The only extra parts I needed were two sleeves to connect the muffler to the elbow and tip.  The trick is to keep most of the clamps fairly loose until you get the alignment right.  I also bought a turbo blanket and a roll of the "titanium" webbing.  It's surprising how expensive the exhaust parts are, but I'm saving a bundle in labor.
Your coach is R-134A as you know
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Replacing A/C evaporator

Reply #6 –
Quote from: craneman –
Your coach is R-134A as you know
Yes.  I would be interested in knowing how much the system will need once it is put back together and if this can be done by a DIYer.
2000 U320 mid entry  #5688
2006 Jeep Liberty


USMCR retired
SDFD retired
FEMA US&R TF8

Re: Replacing A/C evaporator

Reply #7 –
Quote from: Sven and Kristi –
Yes.  I would be interested in knowing how much the system will need once it is put back together and if this can be done by a DIYer.
I used Barry's info and filled it to his numbers. It wasn't as cold as I expected so I put a thermometer in the register at the front of the passenger seat and lowered pressure in small increments at a time while checking temps. Ambient was about 80 deg. and when I got 40 deg. at the register I capped everything off. This was late last year and it still has the same temp at the register. I don't know the exact amount that I wound up with, but the pressures were 20 psi. low and 150 high. I had started at 65 psi. low and 250 psi. high before I started lowering it. These pressures are way lower than any 134 I have done in the past and I can't explain why, but the temp at the dash is what I was looking for.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Replacing A/C evaporator

Reply #8 –
The only R134a refrigerant hose splice that worked for us was to use a tech that had a portable hydraulic crimper.  And this connection has held for many years.

Re: Replacing A/C evaporator

Reply #9 –
You have to use the special clamps for the splices to work, they have a metal strap on the end to position it where they need to go. The one in the pic is 4 years old and not leaking. I put dye in the system and can check it with uv light.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Replacing A/C evaporator

Reply #10 –
Quote from: Sven and Kristi –
This project just keeps getting better!  I'm finishing up replacing my muffler with the Aero AT5050.  While the old exhaust was out, I decided to remove rust and "detail" the area while everything was exposed.  I decided to replace the A/C accumulator (dryer), since it was rusty and looked like it might be the original.  Unfortunately, the connections were frozen and broke off when I tried to disconnect them.  We've decided to replace the evaporator as well as the hoses (rusted connectors), but need some help in locating replacements.  My operator's manual has nothing on it.
Has anyone else had to deal with this problem?  Can I also get the frame for it as well or will I have to have that fabricated?  Thanks for any information.


Interested in your drive results after your 5050xl installation.  My set of mods resulted in a much better torque engine.  Less downshifting.  Need your results please
"Riding and rejoicing"
Bob
1997 U320 40' Mid entry, build 5132,  wtbi ce27, 4th owner
2007 Solara convertible
2 prodeco tech outlaw ss electric bikes

1095 watts solar
08 Ls 460 and a sc430
2000 Ford F-250 superduty 4x4