CLEARANCE LIGHT

Topic: CLEARANCE LIGHT (Read 1478 times) previous topic - next topic

CLEARANCE LIGHT

October 17, 2016, 08:38:59 pm

Just returned from two months on the road and as is the norm, there list of "fixes" that have to be taken care of. And I suppose this particular one could go under the heading, that nothing is ever as simple as expected:

While on the road, we noticed that one of our clearance/marker lights was out, and was planning on a simple replacement when we got home. But when I removed the lens, I realized that it had cracked and water had corroded the entire fixture. Question is, how are these removed? I've tried to pry it out, but it doesn't want to seem to budge... and I, of course, don/t want to make the matter worse by forcing it. Pry? Snap? Twist?

I guessing that I'll end up changing all five of the ones across the top rear with LEDs, but until I can figure out how to remove them, I'm in a holding pattern.

I've attempted to post a couple of pictures.

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #1 – October 17, 2016, 08:49:08 pm

Russell, it looks to me like there are two screws holding the base down. I'd try removing those two screws, then try to pry up the base. There may be some sort of sealer/glue that is holding the base to the coach, so a sharp utility knife might be needed. Be careful.

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #2 – October 17, 2016, 08:51:34 pm

Thanks... but those screws have been removed, and both ends pry up slightly, but something is holding in the middle and as I'm sure you can understand, I don't want to force it until have no other recourse.

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #3 – October 17, 2016, 08:55:35 pm

Probably has silicone holding it in place will have to get physical with it to make it come out of the hole.

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #4 – October 17, 2016, 09:39:05 pm

I replaced all of them recently on my '99. Remove the screws and a little gentle persuasion with a putty knife or plastic razor blade should break it free. Them some cleanup of the adhesive. Once it comes out it is probably a good idea to put a small clamp on the wires to save the aggravation of having the wires disappear. Only happened to me once

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #5 – October 17, 2016, 09:40:36 pm

Those clearance lights have a real heavy duty white sealer behind them, just pry them off, you will probably break them up.
Do a search here for LED replacements, lots of options.
Do be careful to not pull wires off the back of the light, that sealer is really tough and sometimes the wires are really short.

Gary B

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #6 – October 18, 2016, 12:47:27 am

I twisted the base to break the adhesion with the sealant. The sealant was applied on the inside of the cap.

Truck-lite 18050Y are LED replacements that match up.

Chris

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #7 – October 18, 2016, 02:45:42 am

The clearance/marker lights on my Foretravel are #18300Y for the front, and #18300R for the rear. They are 4 1/2" long and 1 5/8" wide, with two screws on 4" centers. They have a small wedge type bulb, which plugs into a rubber base and is mounted to the back of the light by inserting and turning it. These lights were used for many model years, but I do not know which ones.

They are difficult to remove if they have been caulked over the years. My "discovered" method of removal was to run a blade CAREFULLY under the light on all four sides. Then attempt to rotate the light assembly to break the rest of the caulk loose. However you get it done, you will have a mess to clean up.

When you remove the light bulb/wiring assembly, you need to secure it. The front is not too bad; it can't go too far because of the foam blanket behind it. The back ones can totally disappear, though. One of them had done that before I purchased my Foretravel and I never did find it. Another one proved the law of gravity still works. I did find it down by the engine and eventually got it back where it belonged.

The first photo shows what it looks like after removal (I think I downloaded this one from ForeForums, but don't know when, or who had uploaded it). The second photo shows what the back looks like without the bulb assembly. The third picture shows the dimensions.

Hope this helps the discussion and those trying to remove/replace their clearance lights. Please feel free to ask any questions as I have done quite a bit of research in finding the "right" replacement.

Trent

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #8 – October 18, 2016, 02:55:41 am

Quote from: Numbers – October 18, 2016, 12:47:27 am

Truck-lite 18050Y are LED replacements that match up.

Chris,

You are right; the rear LED replacements are 18050R. These are available from many vendors, with an average price about $25.00 each. The cheapest I found them was $18.69 each, from Heavy Duty Truck Parts, Truck Repair Tools, Shop Safety Products; I do not know what they charge for shipping.

Their footprint and hole locations are identical to the original lights, as shown in the drawing.

Hope this helps someone in the decision-making process.

Trent

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #9 – October 18, 2016, 09:04:10 am

We just received several from:
Transportation Accessories Co.
145 E. Pratt Street
Johnstown, Oh, 43031
1-800-848-756

http://commerce1.cera.net/tacbusparts/sections/catalog/catalog.asp?cat_id=

Part # 1941376 Red Marker Light, Flush Mt. Micro BIF $4.70 each
Great people to work with!

Yes, the red lens is glued to the housing and the wires could be a bit short.
Didn't see the need to switch to LEDs for the cost difference. Would have to replace all on the rear and then someday the fronts.

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #10 – October 18, 2016, 09:37:03 am

Russel
Try to pull the lamp straight out. I believe if you are prying from any of the sides (top/bottom left/right) the plastic is being forced against the fiberglass and is wedging itself against the rear wall of the coach.

And those wires can be short.

HTH
Ed

PS I would go with 'Twist"

PSS I was told by someone at MOT that the rear if leaking water does not enter the coach. It will run down the inside of the fiberglass and out. Not so on the front marker lights. Water will leak right into the MH and into whatever electronics you may have up there. Of course I would still use the appropriate sealer all around anyway.

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #11 – October 18, 2016, 09:44:20 am

You guys are the greatest! This is most helpful. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #12 – October 18, 2016, 12:41:39 pm

Quote from: Dick & Sue – October 18, 2016, 09:04:10 am

Didn't see the need to switch to LEDs for the cost difference.

Dick,

Those do appear to be the same clearance lights as the originals. If you have to replace one of them, it may look considerably different (brand new). You might want to replace all five of them if one is broken.

If you wanted to switch to LEDs, you should be able to find small wedge LED "bulbs" that would fit in that socket.

Even replacing with five new $4.70 lights, it might be the cheapest way to get LEDs in your clearance lights.

Trent

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #13 – October 18, 2016, 06:46:22 pm

Got'er done! Thanks to the input here, I was confident I wouldn't make matters worse by using a little elbow grease.

Thought I might share how I went about it for future archive inquiries:

1) Applied some painter's tape around the fixture to ensure I didn't scratch the custom paint. (albeit dirty custom paint right now. I assure you, that's not the norm.)
2) Used a carpet knife to slide under the gasket to cut away any potential silicone.
3) Pried and twisted as was suggested here.

It came out easily after I knew what to expect.

Thanks again for all the input.

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #14 – October 18, 2016, 06:49:55 pm

Whops... forgot the "twist" photo.

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #15 – October 18, 2016, 11:09:06 pm

Russell,

Thanks for the nice photos. One thing it reveals (especially the second photo) is how the original black gasket is totally destroyed. It might be destroyed by the passage of time, heat, cold, and humidity, but in the removal process, it ceases to exist. That may be one of the reasons for all the caulking we have found on them today.

Good luck; I would like to tell you that you are 1/12 of the way through (don't forget the two at the top sides at the rear) I'm afraid you aren't that far yet, based on what is left when you remove the light (see your third photo). The best thing to keep in mind is that the seventh one will not take as long as the first (hopefully).

Trent

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #16 – October 18, 2016, 11:42:55 pm

Quote from: Lance Camper – October 18, 2016, 09:37:03 am

I was told by someone at MOT that the rear if leaking water does not enter the coach. It will run down the inside of the fiberglass and out.

Ed,

That is good to hear. IIRC, the rear lights are on the most curved section and do not sit flat. It takes a lot of caulking to seal those lamp housings.

Trent

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #17 – October 19, 2016, 12:03:25 am

I was on a whirlwind tour of Nacogdoches with Mike (Michael and Jackie) at the time. Now I think it was the guys at Xtreme who told me. If my memory serves me right. At my age service can be spotty.

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #18 – October 21, 2016, 07:10:11 am

FWIW: I ordered the the last two of the following from Transportation Accessories Co in Johnstown, OH:

Part # 1941376 Red Marker Light, Flush Mt. Micro BIF $4.70

This is what is used by Bluebird and I'm expecting a pretty close match when it arrives. Under different circumstances, I think I'd have replaced all five (5) of the clearance/marker lights with the LEDs, but I'm also dealing with retrofits of the porch light, the Hella fog lights, the now obsolete StarTrac Sat Dish, and replacement Pressure Pro sensors. WHEW!!!! This is gonna be an expensive month! (grin)

But while I was researching the info you guys posted for replacement LED bulbs, I also found this model that could be used as a replacement, and I thought I'd post for future reference:

GROTE 47732
-Potted for total circuit-board protection against vibration and corrosion
-Hermetic lens to housing seal
-Fits standard mounting holes, no bracket required
-Uses same .180 molded bullet terminations as incandescent versions for a quick, easy retrofit
-Replaces Truck-Lite® 18050R (red) or 18050Y (yellow)

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #19 – October 21, 2016, 12:21:48 pm

Russell,

That does appear to be an identical LED version to the OEM Foretravel lights. Great find and a fantastic price.

I found them on Amazon Prime: Red $22.83, Yellow $21.71.

Trent

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #20 – October 21, 2016, 02:36:28 pm

Free shipping on $250.00 order
http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ryder/af/ryder/core/content/product/srm/oid/137053/erm/productDetail.do?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=product&gclid=CjwKEAjw-abABRDquOTJi8qdojwSJABt1S1OVl7I4A6ayv_WVK-CMy9oxBlpEEV0sUuDtamE52EgBRoCvAjw_wcB

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #21 – July 04, 2019, 09:15:34 am

Just adding to the content of this thread for search purposes. If anyone wants to know what the inside of the front clearance lights look like on +/- 1999 U320 here you go. This also shows their wire duct taped to the fiberglass behind the infamous "foam" insulation (that literally falls apart when you touch it), as well as the airline for the horns that is flapping in the breeze. This is part of my pulling everything out, sorting and redoing. That is another thread...

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #22 – July 04, 2019, 11:12:27 am

Quote from: coastalbuilder – July 04, 2019, 09:15:34 am

If anyone wants to know what the inside of the front clearance lights look like on +/- 1999 U320 here you go. This also shows their wire duct taped to the fiberglass behind the infamous "foam" insulation (that literally falls apart when you touch it)

CB,

You are at least one step ahead of me. I have the backs off the upper cabinets and am looking at that THICK, ugly, black, disintegrating, flaking, fragile, dirty, falling-apart, procrastinator-causing, OEM insulation. How did you get it out without spreading it throughout your coach? And how did you get the fiberglass area so clean-looking? Inquiring minds want to know!

Thanks,

Trent

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #23 – July 04, 2019, 11:44:52 am

CB, I took polyurethane and used it to hold the wires in place then put new duct tape over the poly until it set up

Trent, I was as careful as I could be getting the large pieces out then took a wire brush and removed the residue off fiberglass
after that a lot of vacuuming with a shop vac
Chris

Re: CLEARANCE LIGHT

Reply #24 – July 04, 2019, 12:17:08 pm

I taped a plastic bag to the bottom of the cabinets and gently pulled the junk apart and out a piece at a time.... slowly. And I used a Festool HEPA vac several times to make sure that I was getting it all. Then I used the HEPA vac with a crevice tool and scraped the fiberglass. Frankly, most of it had already come off. Then I tested the surface with three small pieces of Noico sound pads. It stuck great no matter how super clean the surface was. So I moved forward with the next step - Sound and heat insulation for front end cap

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