Engine compartment insulation

Topic: Engine compartment insulation (Read 3087 times) previous topic - next topic

Engine compartment insulation

November 12, 2016, 04:36:50 pm

The old foam insulation in the engine compartment is literally falling out. I suspect that age has a lot to do with it, and then the recent work done there didn't help, either. I'd like to take it out, probably in stages, and replace it with something better. I know that Pierce has used some Hardyboard for added fire protection, but what, if anything, goes underneath that, and what is used to seal gaps and holes?

I need to start with the top, especially what's under the bed. My thought is to put a tarp over the engine, then pull the old stuff down onto the tarp. Once that's clear we can carefully take the tarp and old insulation out and dump it in the dumpster. Then what? Glue some sort of foam insulation on (what kind and how thick?) and then attach Hardyboard (how?)?

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #1 – November 12, 2016, 06:10:48 pm

Many on another forum have used this product in the engine and generator compartments: http://www.dupreeproducts.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=6

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #2 – November 12, 2016, 06:27:09 pm

Thanks, Dan.

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #3 – November 12, 2016, 09:06:32 pm

Interesting product, but as far as I can tell, there is no indication of the thickness of the material. Do you happen to know?
Don

Quote from: AC7880 – November 12, 2016, 06:10:48 pm

Many on another forum have used this product in the engine and generator compartments: http://www.dupreeproducts.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=6

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #4 – November 12, 2016, 09:15:38 pm

Whatever they used on our 2001, it looks like quilted mats with edge binding made to fit each section, is holding up very well. At 16 years old it is dirty but sturdy.

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #5 – November 12, 2016, 11:34:54 pm

I have the same quilted finish and when I wash it with TSP and hot water it comes up almost like new.
JohnH

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #6 – November 13, 2016, 12:10:21 am

I used "super sound proofing" mat material with an adhesive side for my generator compartment that I am really happy with. It also comes in different thicknesses and I believe you can have them cut to size. You might find a local source as I did.

SSP Foam Mat 1 thick by 48 wide w/PSA (per foot)-Super Soundproofing Store

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #7 – November 13, 2016, 12:21:21 am

Sven,
I see they are in San Marcos... just down the road apiece from us. Do they have a retail shop, show room, or will call?
Don

Quote from: Sven and Kristi – November 13, 2016, 12:10:21 am

I used "super sound proofing" mat material with an adhesive side for my generator compartment that I am really happy with. It also comes in different thicknesses and I believe you can have them cut to size. You might find a local source as I did.

SSP Foam Mat 1 thick by 48 wide w/PSA (per foot)-Super Soundproofing Store

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #8 – November 13, 2016, 12:21:47 am

Don,
I've been looking at Dynmat Hoodliner. Here is the PDF download with the specs.
http://www.dynamat.com/download/3025/
Website
Dynamat.com | The Hoodliner For Car Audio Use

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #9 – November 13, 2016, 12:30:29 am

John,
This also looks like a good possibility and probably easier to source locally for most folks, though I believe I would like to go a bit thicker. The sheet sizes are such that two of the 32" X 54" mats would fit the underside of the bed. It would probably take two or three more to complete the engine area. I do like the reflective aspect of it... I used quite a bit of the Dynamat Extreme to wrap the outside of the stair well when I redid the steps. Only drawback is that it is pretty expensive, but it sticks like nobody's business!
Don

Quote from: John Morales – November 13, 2016, 12:21:47 am

Don,
I've been looking at Dynmat Hoodliner. Here is the PDF download with the specs.
http://www.dynamat.com/download/3025/
Website
Dynamat.com | The Hoodliner For Car Audio Use

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #10 – November 13, 2016, 12:37:28 am

Don,
Here you go from 1/2" to 2" thick Marine Insulation.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|2349105&id=3018333

Wondering what is the thickest we can go?

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #11 – November 13, 2016, 07:45:34 am

I am taking two different approaches. The engine room area has a 1/4 inch thin layer that is coming off. Underneath that layer is dense foam that is intact. I am replacing the thin layer only. Using this product. Amazon.com: Thermo-Tec 14125 48" X 72" Two Sided Thermo Guard Flame Retardant... Barry describes for his gen set area.

However the generator compartment is crumbling into very small less than a BB size pieces. I don't think that can be contained successfully by going over the top. I am going to scrape all of it off and replace with a second product. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=109520&engine=adwords&keyword=product_ad&gclid=CMDnjeDgpdACFQdWDQodFO4FHQ

They are another source for marine quality products. I am biased from all those years on the water. There is a review of these materials that found this to be the best bang for the buck but I haven't found it again.

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #12 – November 13, 2016, 08:24:27 am

If you are not in the local area for SSP product their shipping is quite high. Search the net - I found other places closer that were a bit more expensive but the decrease in shipping cost was huge. It is also available with or without the adhesive and in various thicknesses.

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #13 – November 13, 2016, 08:57:06 am

Another option is Ductboard a fairly rigid fiberglass insulation with a foil facing used in lieu of sheet metal hvac ductwork in buildings. Non combustible, cheap, but probably not as quiet as a dual density layer system. Comes in different thicknesses. Should be available locally from a commercial hvac company or a commercial insulating co.

Oh yeah get a roll of foil duct tape whatever material you use, this stuff is amazing for temporary repairs and other uses. Best thing since zip ties and bailling wire. Don't get the kind of foil duct tape with the rubber backing unless you never intend on removing it.

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #14 – November 13, 2016, 09:21:40 am

You might want to check out EZ Cool Insulation by Harbour Supply right there in Springtown, Texas. (NOT Harbor Freight!!)
I did our engine compartment with their expanded lead foam, aluminized bubble wrap sides and am quite pleased with the results.
Their product is fire proof, sound deadening, washable, easy to work with, and their aluminum tape is absolutely fantastic.
Also, their prices will blow you away!! Super reasonable compared to others.
I did put two layers in the engine compartment, used 3M spray adhesive, and, being somewhat anal, made sure the stuff stayed put by using the plastic fender washers that held up the old insulation.
At first glance you might think the sheets are nothing but good old bubble wrap like one buys in the hardware store. Not so!!
Our insulation has been up for about four years now, with zero problems with the product or my installation.
I stapled a plastic tarp to two 2x4s so I could slide the "catch assembly" in from the rear, over the top of our radiator and as wide as the frame under the engine plus. Then proceeded to scrape off the old insulation. WOW, was that stuff heavy!! Got it all clean and then wiped the walls down with solvent cleaner so the new stuff would adhere better. KEEP A FAN BLOWING IN IF YOU USE STUFF LIKE THAT!! NASTY HEADACHE OR WORSE CAN RESULT.

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #15 – November 13, 2016, 10:22:33 am

I will be installing insulation blankets throughout my engine compartment. Hanging been in the gasket and mechanical mfg. industry for over 20 years I have seen the durability of this product. Here is a link to that type of insulation. (I am not endorsing this company in any way, just a reference). This is generally a custom made product made to size. I will be having grommets installed and threaded inserts installed into the wood on the bed frame. The under side of the bed will be mounted the same way.

Engine Compartment Insulation - InsulTech

John

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #16 – November 13, 2016, 09:54:16 pm

I like the look of this stuff: McMaster-Carr high-temperature rigid fiberglass insulation, part number 9350K3

McMaster-Carr

It was recommended in this old thread by Rob L (he hasn't been around the Forum for a while):

reinsulated engine compartment

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #17 – November 14, 2016, 11:23:35 am

Quote from: Don & Tys (AKA acousticart) – November 13, 2016, 12:21:21 am

Sven,
I see they are in San Marcos... just down the road apiece from us. Do they have a retail shop, show room, or will call?
Don

Yes, they have a small shop and are very helpful. There are a number of other products you might find useful and they offer military discounts. They gave me a section of rubber mat for the wet bay.

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #18 – November 15, 2016, 09:24:44 pm

I used the fiberglass board from McMaster/Carr also, happy with the results, quieter and cooler in the bedroom,
There is a post on the forum if I can find it......

Re: Engine compartment insulation

Reply #19 – November 16, 2016, 07:54:41 am

And, a picture of what our engine compartment looks like from the driver's side access door--the only place I could get a decent picture. Note the LED light string up near the "ceiling", wired into the old light fixture. I left the option of being able to put the old 12V bulb back into the socket if I wanted to use it again. The LED lights sure brighten up the entire compartment, unlike that dinky old OEM light fixture.
The EZ Cool insulation is still clean, shiny, and staying put after almost four years. I did hose it down this last summer. No fear of retaining moisture as it is closed cell lead foam sandwiched between two sheets of aluminum foil, and the aluminum tape adheres like one wouldn't believe! Can't hardly see the seams.

Affiliate Notice