Entry Step Refurb

Topic: Entry Step Refurb (Read 1771 times) previous topic - next topic

Entry Step Refurb

December 07, 2016, 01:17:17 pm

Here's another entry step post for posterity. The step on this rig looked to be in poor shape with caulking missing which, of course, allowed water into the step. I drilled a hole in each bottom corner and got a nice stream of water out of both.
* I drilled the factory rivets to separate the fiberglass cover from the steel base. The existing caulk held firm. I had to use a box cutter and a cutting tool to get through the caulk.
* Inside it didn't look too bad though. Had about a quarter cup of loose rust. I cleaned and painted the metal.
* I assembled the step, riveted and caulked it.
* The front fender was missing the rivets so I replaced them too.
Anyhow, should stay dry now.
jor

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #1 – December 07, 2016, 01:44:21 pm

Yes John, that caulking gets really hard and is a pain to remove cover. I sandblasted the inside frame and then gave it a good coating of POR15 then black enamel rust paint. I also drilled holes in bottom of cover and also thru the gussets inside so water would not get trapped in the inside cross framing. I have not taken cover off since doing it 4 yrs ago but am sure it is nice and dry etc.
JohnH

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #2 – December 07, 2016, 10:44:03 pm

Hi John,

Where are the rivets located in one of your step? Found none on mine except at the hinge.

"I drilled the factory rivets to separate the fiberglass cover from the steel base. The existing caulk held firm. I had to use a box cutter and a cutting tool to get through the caulk"

Thanks,
Michael

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #3 – December 07, 2016, 11:02:09 pm

Quote

Where are the rivets located in one of your step?

Mine may have been repaired sometime as it had three in the front, four in the back and two on each side. Here's a photo. The other photo is of the step on our old 320 which I also refurb'd. It didn't have any rivets.
jor

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #4 – December 07, 2016, 11:10:14 pm

FWIW,
I had the same trapping of water and drilled some holes in the fiberglass cover/trim also to drain. I had some rust that effected the integrity of the steel step and had it remade out of galvanized steel by a local fab shop. However, before we got to that point, I had taken the old one out and blasted it and painted with Rustoleum. It did not hold up (I guess that is obvious since it was remade). When the fab shop did it the second time i repaired, it was with the galvanized metal, I used some of the truck bed liner material to coat it. So far it has been good. I did not reapply the caulk. I thought that water would get it but also drain out better. Heck, I'm not sure which was is best. I did use ss screws for reattachment of the fiberglass trim to the steel step. Best of travels.

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #5 – December 08, 2016, 10:59:04 am

Mine looks axactly as the one for U320 in John's 2nd picture. There is no screw or rivet attaching the fiber glass cover to the steel step. Any idea how to take it apart?

Thanks,
Michael

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #6 – December 08, 2016, 11:03:33 am

Quote from: MichaelU295 – December 08, 2016, 10:59:04 am

Mine looks axactly as the one for U320 in John's 2nd picture. There is no screw or rivet attaching the fiber glass cover to the steel step. Any idea how to take it apart?

Thanks,
Michael

Mine was just held together with the caulk, and that is the way I reassembled it after the hole modification and Rustoleum paint.

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #7 – December 08, 2016, 12:45:01 pm

I used a self tapper screw on each end to hold cover on so it could be removed easily.
I have an idea how to keep the step in a vertical position even when air is depleted, but have not done it yet.(this idea is for when you are storing or not using coach for a while- outside of course) Why not put a small hook in the top of the box section behind step and use one of the rubber or?? elastic straps to go from that hook and around the step and hook up to another one under the box? This will keep it from having water enter the join around framing therefore lower the risk of it rusting out. When you need to go inside just remove the strap from under and the step will fall down(open) ??

JohnH

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #8 – December 08, 2016, 02:47:01 pm

My step was rebuilt in 2012 out of heavy aluminum plate by a local fab shop. It was covered in non-skid tape after this picture was taken. Foretravel no longer had the logo branded tape so I used a 3m 6-8 inch wide strip. I also slightly increased the drainage holes in the fiberglass skin. It turned out very well and will never rust again. Cost was about $225 for the fabrication.

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #9 – December 08, 2016, 06:39:01 pm

Quote from: John Haygarth – December 08, 2016, 12:45:01 pm

I used a self tapper screw on each end to hold cover on so it could be removed easily.
I have an idea how to keep the step in a vertical position even when air is depleted, but have not done it yet.(this idea is for when you are storing or not using coach for a while- outside of course) Why not put a small hook in the top of the box section behind step and use one of the rubber or?? elastic straps to go from that hook and around the step and hook up to another one under the box? This will keep it from having water enter the join around framing therefore lower the risk of it rusting out. When you need to go inside just remove the strap from under and the step will fall down(open) ??
JohnH

I just went out and pushed my step up and it stays there without a bungee cord, thanks for the idea.

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #10 – December 08, 2016, 07:40:24 pm

Craneman, I think you will find that it comes down again as well that is why I mentioned the Bungee cord use.
JohnH

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #11 – December 09, 2016, 09:58:07 am

John, I will keep an eye on it. Still up today, maybe heat expansion on the air cyl. will bring it down.

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #12 – December 09, 2016, 01:10:42 pm

Quote from: jor – December 07, 2016, 01:17:17 pm

Here's another entry step post for posterity. The step on this rig looked to be in poor shape with caulking missing which, of course, allowed water into the step. I drilled a hole in each bottom corner and got a nice stream of water out of both.
* I drilled the factory rivets to separate the fiberglass cover from the steel base. The existing caulk held firm. I had to use a box cutter and a cutting tool to get through the caulk.
* Inside it didn't look too bad though. Had about a quarter cup of loose rust. I cleaned and painted the metal.
* I assembled the step, riveted and caulked it.
* The front fender was missing the rivets so I replaced them too.
Anyhow, should stay dry now.
jor

Didn't know how bad mine looked until I saw your redo...wow..nice job. My coach is at MOT right now so can't go look at it to refresh my memory but, I know the main hinge is rusted and both of the arms that extent and retract the step are also very rusted... is Foretravel the place to go for those parts? Will be taking a hard look at the step when I get coach back, again...nice job!
Happy Holidays

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #13 – December 09, 2016, 01:13:23 pm

Quote from: John Haygarth – December 08, 2016, 12:45:01 pm

I used a self tapper screw on each end to hold cover on so it could be removed easily.
I have an idea how to keep the step in a vertical position even when air is depleted, but have not done it yet.(this idea is for when you are storing or not using coach for a while- outside of course) Why not put a small hook in the top of the box section behind step and use one of the rubber or?? elastic straps to go from that hook and around the step and hook up to another one under the box? This will keep it from having water enter the join around framing therefore lower the risk of it rusting out. When you need to go inside just remove the strap from under and the step will fall down(open) ??
JohnH

This is a good idea! Very simple work around that should make a big difference...thanks.

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #14 – December 09, 2016, 01:22:37 pm

I replaced my step with a new one from FT, and powder coated it before install. My cover was glued on the old step came off easily due to rust. I used a couple of big head aluminum rivets and a little bit of calking to hold it on.

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #15 – December 09, 2016, 02:25:49 pm

Xtreme or Foretravel happy to install a better looking, safer electric step while you are in NAC. I replaced mine after my mom took a tumble off that skinny little step A couple years ago. Just over three coach bucks.

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #16 – December 09, 2016, 03:37:09 pm

We had ours done at Xtreme. I though it was less than $3K. Worth every penny. Pics before paint and the trim piece and after paint. Added a switch to keep it in with the engine off.

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #17 – December 09, 2016, 03:42:37 pm

Roger, might have been 2.5 CB or less. Memory not improved with age! Anyway, thanks for posting pictures, one of the many upgrades I love on my coach. SO much safer than small step.

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #18 – December 09, 2016, 03:54:05 pm

I know two people that have missed the OEM step coming out of the coach and have taken nasty falls, one with broken bones. I saw this as good choice for our own safety. It is so much better. We also got a 14"x19" step with adjustable legs. Great for lots of things but when the front end is a bit high this makes a great and safe place at the bottom of the steps.

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #19 – December 09, 2016, 04:58:19 pm

Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 – December 09, 2016, 03:54:05 pm

We also got a 14"x19" step with adjustable legs.

Yup, we have the same step, but never knew of the adjustable leg option, thanx, Roger! A PO took our fold-out steps out, I'm starting to think it was because of a fall.

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #20 – November 02, 2020, 11:37:18 am

I am currently redoing my entry step in aluminum which is proving to be the popular way to replace the old rusting entry steps on the older FT models.
I have taken my "exiting" wreck of a step to an aluminum fabricator and will post the finished product when it is back and complete.
I thought I might post the step as I took off showing the 2 cups of rust and disintegrated step as I took off.

Very glad to read the posts from all about the steps as I am sure it would have just broken away eventually
Peter

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #21 – November 02, 2020, 12:15:29 pm

I have a Corian type solid surfacing for my entry steps and one is cracked. I would like to refurbish it with the style shown on one of the photos above. Any idea where I can get the material, or would I have to go to FOT? I reposted the photo of the steps I would like to have.

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #22 – November 02, 2020, 01:29:28 pm

Quote from: Sven and Kristi – November 02, 2020, 12:15:29 pm

I would like to refurbish it with the style shown on one of the photos above. Any idea where I can get the material...

See if the post linked below helps answer your question:

Part Number Collection

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #23 – November 02, 2020, 02:26:43 pm

Quote from: Sven and Kristi – November 02, 2020, 12:15:29 pm

I have a Corian type solid surfacing for my entry steps and one is cracked. I would like to refurbish it with the style shown on one of the photos above. Any idea where I can get the material, or would I have to go to FOT? I reposted the photo of the steps I would like to have.

Corian or Nevemar can be purchased at a cabinet shop. You can have them size it or it's easy to cut with a table saw. Regular router makes bullnoses, etc easy and fun. Can be glued for extra thickness or to put colors in a sandwich.

It's also easy to repair or take it to a shop to have them do it. Can't see the repair.

Pierce

Re: Entry Step Refurb

Reply #24 – November 02, 2020, 03:06:56 pm

Sven, I assume you are interested in rubber stair treads?
I ordered my rubber stair treads from Global Industrial but there are many other online sources.
Mine have the round disk pattern (called "coin"): Converting stairwell from 2 steps to 3 steps (1991 and earlier Unihomes)
I believe that square pattern in your photo is made by Johnsonite, but that particular pattern doesn't show up much in my searches.
Most stair treads are just the horizonal surface along with the nose. You generally need to order the riser separately in a matching color. Of course you can use any other material as the riser too, like your exiting Corian if you wanted to.
You could also try visiting a flooring store to see what they might be able to order.

Affiliate Notice