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Topic: Light switch (Read 1323 times) previous topic - next topic

Light switch

Last question for tonite: the most forward overhead light fixture in my 97 U320 is a fluorescent 2 bulb fixture. We have been unable to turn it on. We replaced one of the 2 bulbs with anither we assume to be new, no luck. Is this fixture tied into another overhead fixture? If not then we are at a loss as to where the switch is for this light. Also will the fixture light if only one bulb is good?

Thanks in advance for yalls help.
97 U320
Build 5099
Victoria, Tx

Re: Light switch

Reply #1
Have you tried the switch on the forward end of the cabinet over the copilot' chair?

Re: Light switch

Reply #2
Do you have electricity at the fixture, could it be the ballast...


Re: Light switch

Reply #4
Turn on all the light switches you can find and see what happens
Richard & Betty Bark & Keiko our Golden Doodle
2003 U320T 3820 PBDS
Build # 6215
MC # 16926
2016 Chevrolet Colorado 4X4 diesel

Re: Light switch

Reply #5
 Pick up a digital volt ohm meter, about 15-20 bucks, learn to use it, and save $10,000 or more in future repairs, tows, etc. Lots of information out on the internet, but maybe a basic electrical course is prudent. No offense intended. Cause your motor coach is a city on wheels. Basic electrical knowledge can probably solve 90% of any electrical issues. For the most part, sparkies are not rocket scientists. Diagnosis all starts at the meter.
Old Phart Phred, EIEIO
89 GV ored 36' #3405 300 hp cat 3208 ATAAC side radiator, mountain tamer exhaust brake

Re: Light switch

Reply #6
Have you tried the switch on the forward end of the cabinet over the copilot' chair?
That is the correct answer.
 
Trent
Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385

Re: Light switch

Reply #7
Both bulbs need to be good.
Try two known to be good bulbs before spending a lot of money.
Swap them with a working fixture.
Justin & Cathy Byrd
1995 U280 "Old Faithful"
36' Build #4673
C8.3 Cummins
Allison MD3060R 6 speed - retarder
Powertech 10KW  4cyl Kubota

Re: Light switch

Reply #8
First thing should be get a test light and see if you have 12 volts to the fixture.  When I had fixtures stop working I would just change it out to LED.  My guess is ballast is dead
2014 ih45  (4th Foretravel owned)
 1997 36' U295 Sold in 2020, owned for 19 years
  U240 36' Sold to insurance company after melting in garage fire
    33' Foretravel on Dodge Chassis  Sold very long time ago

Re: Light switch

Reply #9
First thing should be get a test light and see if you have 12 volts to the fixture.  When I had fixtures stop working I would just change it out to LED.  My guess is ballast is dead

Good answer.  If 12 VDC to the fixture and new bulbs did not turn on, it is a ballast.  They can be replaced, or you can convert to LED's.  Assume this is  a "Thinlite" fixture.

My suggestion is to NOT  convert only one of many-- its light will be different than the rest (color and intensity).
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Light switch

Reply #10
When my coach was new to me I thought my front light fixture was not working until someone told me that the light switch was on the front of the overhead cabinet above the stairwell.  I never would have thought to look there and went through the whole routine of checking voltage to the fixture and spending energy thinking about what the problem could be in getting power to the fixture. I was shocked to see it was my mistake about where the switch is located.
2000, U320 36' with Cummins 450, Toad - 2016 Ford CMax Energi
Previous MHs; 1970 Winnebago, 1973 FMC 2900R, much later a heavily modified 1975 FMC 2900R.

Re: Light switch

Reply #11
Pick up a digital volt ohm meter, about 15-20 bucks, learn to use it, and save $10,000 or more in future repairs, tows, etc. Lots of information out on the internet, but maybe a basic electrical course is prudent. No offense intended. Cause your motor coach is a city on wheels. Basic electrical knowledge can probably solve 90% of any electrical issues. For the most part, sparkies are not rocket scientists. Diagnosis all starts at the meter.

Great minds must think alike, as I was thinking much the same. thanks.
97 U320
Build 5099
Victoria, Tx

Re: Light switch

Reply #12
Both bulbs need to be good.
Try two known to be good bulbs before spending a lot of money.
Swap them with a working fixture.
I have not been able to Find another fixture that uses the same bulbs- 18" flourescents IIRC. But I did go buy a few of them and tried two brand new bulbs, just in case both had to be good for the fixture to work. No luck. But it's worth knowing both must work, thanks.
97 U320
Build 5099
Victoria, Tx

Re: Light switch

Reply #13
Good answer.  If 12 VDC to the fixture and new bulbs did not turn on, it is a ballast.  They can be replaced, or you can convert to LED's.  Assume this is  a "Thinlite" fixture.

My suggestion is to NOT  convert only one of many-- its light will be different than the rest (color and intensity).
Takes an 18" fluorescent. I thought that meant the fixture was AC. In any case there are either 3 or 4 other fixtures in the galley area that also take fluorescents, though different bulbs. IIRC there is also at least one fluorescent fixture in the head.
97 U320
Build 5099
Victoria, Tx

Re: Light switch

Reply #14
That is the bulb number?  Brand?

There are some "good" brands of these bulbs, and some "we made copies of these bulbs".
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Light switch

Reply #15
That is the bulb number?  Brand?

There are some "good" brands of these bulbs, and some "we made copies of these bulbs".
Brett you are correct the fixture is the thin-lite. I tried two brand new bulbs, GE F15 T8 Garage and Basement, to no avail.
97 U320
Build 5099
Victoria, Tx

Re: Light switch

Reply #16
Identify the correct ballast, then google it for best price: http://www.thinlite.com/

Half an hour labor and a hand full of butt connectors and you are back in business.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Light switch

Reply #17
Michael,
I was almost exactly where you are last year at this time.  I decided to learn the basics and used Dan Sullivan's work to do so.  Here is a YouTube link for his book.  Don't let the mechanic part intimidate you as it starts very basic.  It is so practical that I purchased the work cards and watched the videos you will see if you go to the link.  It also contains an excellent section on using a voltmeter.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7TQGrWZmvRs

George and Steph
1997 U270 36 Build 5081 "Honu"
1180w Solar 400A lithium all Victron house system
Motorcade 17670, SKP 128300, FMCA F459019
73 VW Camper, 79 VW Camper, 2363 Sunline, and an Arctic Fox 25P

Re: Light switch

Reply #18
Bought a meter, watched some you tube and put the probes on what i take to be the metal contacts in the fixture. Zip zero nada. Of course that is literally rhe first time i have ever used a meter and perhaps i should try on a battery or something to see what happens. Yea.
97 U320
Build 5099
Victoria, Tx

Re: Light switch

Reply #19
Make sure that you have voltage going TO the ballast (primary side) the contacts where the lamps plug in are on the load side (secondary side) If you have voltage at the ballast AND two new lamps the you can be reasonably sure the ballast is bad.
There is a chance that a wire has pulled loose from a socket or possibly a bad socket (try a new ballast, if not you can always use it as a spare)
Justin & Cathy Byrd
1995 U280 "Old Faithful"
36' Build #4673
C8.3 Cummins
Allison MD3060R 6 speed - retarder
Powertech 10KW  4cyl Kubota

Re: Light switch

Reply #20
Also make sure you match the lamps with the ballast, use proper type lamp for that particular ballast. There should be a label on the ballast indicating the type, size and number of lamps that it can operate.
Justin & Cathy Byrd
1995 U280 "Old Faithful"
36' Build #4673
C8.3 Cummins
Allison MD3060R 6 speed - retarder
Powertech 10KW  4cyl Kubota

Re: Light switch

Reply #21
Make sure that you have voltage going TO the ballast (primary side) the contacts where the lamps plug in are on the load side (secondary side) If you have voltage at the ballast AND two new lamps the you can be reasonably sure the ballast is bad.
There is a chance that a wire has pulled loose from a socket or possibly a bad socket (try a new ballast, if not you can always use it as a spare)

I dont see where to check voltage to the ballast, so im assuming i remove the fixture? Heres anpic of my fixture installed. 
97 U320
Build 5099
Victoria, Tx

Re: Light switch

Reply #22
Squeeze the center cover on the sides and it will come off
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean


Re: Light switch

Reply #24
Hello, like someone else posted the switch (for mine) is on the cabinet nearest the door by the AC switch.  I would recommend if you are having problems with the bulbs/ballast and have figured out how to turn on/off that you consider switching to led.  I have put in led strips after removal of the ballast and so far have been happy.  You can get 5 meters of Led off eBay for less than 10 dollars delivered.  Then it is just a matter of putting in 4-6 strips of the leds, soldering them to the + and - (in correct polarity) and you will probably not have to mess with them again. They also require less electricity to put out same light.  Just my thoughts.  I have changed pretty much all of my incandesent and flourescent lights out to LEDs and am pleased.  Best of travels. 
Best of Travels