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fresh water check valve (back flow preventer), for Newbies

January 07, 2017, 12:04:29 pm

I have learned the hard way just now....what many of much experienced members knew/know, but I did not know to ask

I have a reel attached fresh water hose.  When I got the coach, I noticed that after disconnecting to shore I would have some water continue out of the hose for a time so I let it drip out on the ground.  Then I put the end of the hose in a small plastic bucket so any further water would be contained.  I now realize that the prior owner must have not done that or he had a valve that failed and he did not know.

The result is that over I think a long period of time, water ran (drained) out of the hose and back in the utility bay and then under into an area forward of the rear bulkhead, forward of where you can see the bulkhead bolts.  So, undetected, the water was attacking the frame work to which the bulkhead bolts attached.  Hope that makes sense to you.  The result is to now have to rebuild the frame that is hidden by the underneath fiberglass bottom of the coach (above that fiberglass is insulation and chassis framing, flooring)

There are, I find, a few discussions on this, so do a simple search, water check valve or fresh water back flow preventer.  Will give you more information.  I also copied one such thread, see Carol Savournin reply therein.  Removing panel for water check valve

Here is what should have been going on.  There should but may not be a back flow preventer such that when you disconnect the reel fresh water supply, it stops back flow of water into the hose and out of it to wherever the water can go.  James at MOT says that if that device is not there, you can add one where they normally are, where the reel hose attaches to the coach, or add one to the end of the water hose (or, I will add, just a cap on the end of the hose to seal it?)

How did we discover this problem?  I hired MOT to do a two hour inspection, no check list.  Mr. Risch notice a seam along a fiberglass to metal seal had a small gap.  He planned to simply reseal it but upon further inspection found there was more to it.  That led to cutting out a piece of the fiberglass under the coach forward of the bulkhead to more fully inspect the entire bulkhead structures.  Left unattended, it could over time lead to damage more difficult and expensive to repair.

So, Mr/Mrs Newbie, if you have not noticed a discussion of fresh water supply back flow preventers, this may add to your internal list of things to be sure are working properly.  Any water....whether from the fresh water tank overflow, hose leakage or rain...must be kept out of the sealed areas under the coach.

send me a pm if you need me to try to explain this better.  My photographs to this point would not be very helpful, will get some as repair done.

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Re: fresh water check valve (back flow preventer), for Newbies

Reply #1 – January 07, 2017, 12:22:18 pm

Mike

Water damage from leak may be a covered peril by your Ins. Co. - check with your company and ask if covered under your policy -  Might save a bundle out of your pocket.
Bernd Ramspeck has done at least two basement rebuilds that were covered by Insurance due to leaking water.

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Re: fresh water check valve (back flow preventer), for Newbies

Reply #2 – January 07, 2017, 12:35:20 pm

OH MY Tim, never thought of that....I pay enough for insurance now, ought to get something.....was $706 last year, now $1234.,,,do not recall ever a claim.

Thanks Tim

mike

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Re: fresh water check valve (back flow preventer), for Newbies

Reply #3 – January 07, 2017, 12:35:30 pm

Mike sorry to hear about the water problem, but like Tim said your insurance should cover a big chunk of the expense.

My hose connector has a screw-in plug attached that I faithfully install when winding up the hose.  Just last month I put a new rubber washer in the connector to ensure a good seal, both at the tap and when stowed.

Good luck.

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Reply #4 – January 07, 2017, 12:45:30 pm

Sorry this happened to you Michael. There is just so much to learn.

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Re: fresh water check valve (back flow preventer), for Newbies

Reply #5 – January 07, 2017, 01:13:26 pm

When we received our coach, I noted the same problem of a "drippy" water hose.  I located the check valve (the brass fitting directly above the hose reel, behind the black wood block), and removed it.  Cleaned out some trash, put it back together, reinstalled it.  Water still dripped out of the hose.  Wanting to avoid any water leaks in the bay (for the exact reason illustrated above), I took more positive action.  I installed a 1/4 turn ball valve in the water line "upstream" of the hose reel.  I open it to fill our fresh water tank, then close it.  No more leaks.

You can see the white valve on the bay wall above and behind the hose reel.

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Reply #6 – January 07, 2017, 03:44:25 pm

Almost all the check valves will leak. Just a matter of time. That's why I put a cap in my fresh water fitting--and a pan under it to monitor if any drips out.

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Reply #7 – January 07, 2017, 04:12:47 pm

Chuck,

Thanks for the picture. I noticed that you have your fresh tank full mark below the top of the tank.

I am getting ready to install my SeeLevel strips (but not on the sloped end). Your picture made me wonder if I should stop them before the top of the thank.

What is your understanding?

Thanks,

Trent

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Reply #8 – January 07, 2017, 04:40:04 pm

Trent,

I am still using the original Audit CRT screen to read my tank levels.  It basically only has 4 level readings:  1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full.  What I did was make a mark on my tank when the level indicator reached each of the 4 levels.  When my dash level gauge jumps to "full", the water in the tank is at the mark I made - about 3" or so below the actual top of the tank.  Normally, this is where I shut off the fill valve.  This avoids having water run out the overflow pipe, even when driving on curvy roads.

I guess where you mount your indicator strips depends on how you usually use your tank capacity.  If you always fill your tank so it overflows, then put the strip at the very top.  If you want to leave a little "safety" air space in the top of your tank, mount the strip down a couple inches from the top.  You could still always fill the tank to "overflow" if you absolutely required the max water load (like when going to Q).

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Reply #9 – January 07, 2017, 04:49:34 pm

I have both a ball valve and a check valve on my inlet line. No problem with water coming out from the filter, but the hose always seems to be full of water, no matter which end I disconnect first, and for some reason it has a special affinity for the inside of my shoes. I've learned to fill when I'm already wide awake.

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Re: fresh water check valve (back flow preventer), for Newbies

Reply #10 – January 07, 2017, 06:14:13 pm

Chuck,
 
From additional reading, I think the overflow starts before the water level actually reaches the top of the tank, but I do not know exactly where. I think I will put the seelevel strips about an inch from the top and never talk about this subject again. 
 
thanks,
 
Trent

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Reply #11 – January 08, 2017, 08:32:05 am

   Mike--sorry to hear that the dripping water hose caused such damage.
    My water hose has the screw on cap and after reading your post I will monitor it for leakage.
    There are so many details on these coaches that  "I don't even know, what I don't know".
    Thanks for the heads up---Jim
   

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Re: fresh water check valve (back flow preventer), for Newbies

Reply #12 – January 08, 2017, 09:02:08 am

Being as how our '89 GV is about as high tech as a Conestoga covered wagon I had to improvise. No hose reels, no water softener, no gauges back there, but shutoff valve options that enable me to do different things as needed.
From the OEM water connection--with check valve--I have run a short hose with a ball shutoff valve to a water filter I mounted right next to our engine air filter housing, then ANOTHER short hose with ball check valve. This last hose is one that has the external spring on it as it came with an inline water filter. Our long hose from the  pedestal supply faucet is "threaded" up thru a frame opening right behind the driver's side taillight. When not in use I coil up the hose, connect the ends together to prevent leaks, and then store in the compartment behind the rear wheels. I put a male plug in the end of the hose that goes to the water filter and thus no leaks and, also, no dirt gets in.


By the way, not denigrating Conestoga wagons or our GV. The Conestoga wagons were tough but simple to work on in the field. Improvisation was key to their durability and success.

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