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Topic: Oil Analysis, Many of You Do This? (Read 2016 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Oil Analysis, Many of You Do This?

Reply #25 –
Brett,
How do you properly calibrate the engine oil dipstick?

Anyone, What is the purpose of a bypass filter?  How is it setup on the M11?

Thanks.  Learning and absorbing the knowledge.

John M
John & Carm Morales

"We travel not to go anywhere, but to just go.  We travel for travel's sake.  Our great desire is to move."

Re: Oil Analysis, Many of You Do This?

Reply #26 –
A bypass filter is a separate oil filter filtering down to the 1 micron size.Is mainly used with synthetic oil.You tap into a oil pressure
source somewhere near the main oil filter housing and you route the oil coming out of the bypass filter to a non pressure point
such as the valve cover.Some on the forum don't "believe" in them I personally swear by them, anything that keeps the oil cleaner
has to help.Have been using for 30 plus years.Also if the filter ever gets plugged no harm to engine, have never seen one plugged.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Oil Analysis, Many of You Do This?

Reply #27 –
Calibrate oil dipstick by draining oil and let it drip overnight after removing filter.
Obtain the number of quarts recommended by Cummins for your engine and particular oil pan.
Install filter after filling it with oil and pour the rest of the measured amount of oil into the crankcase.
With motorhome level, start engine and let warm up.
After a couple hours, check dipstick and file a 'high' mark at the oil level on the dipstick.
Measure the distance between OEM Hi and Low marks, and file new low mark

I did this with a GMC P30 454 engine and found the OEM marks to be a quart to high. Oil consumption dropped from a thousand miles a quart to 10,000 miles per quart.

My M11 had filed marks on the dipstick when I bought it.
Wyatt
96 U320 40 WTFE, build 4943
84 Toyota Supra towd
2015 Jeep Wrangler towd
Victoria, BC, Canada

Re: Oil Analysis, Many of You Do This?

Reply #28 –
Wyatt,

I would do it a bit differently to get a more accurate "low mark". This is an article I wrote for the FMCA Magazine several years ago:

CALIBRATING THE ENGINE OIL DIP STICK

We continue to see questions about oil "consumption" and oil on radiators and toads on the FMCA Forum and other RV websites.  It seems to be universal across all brands of diesel engines.

THE NUMBER ONE CAUSE IS AN OVERFILLED CRANKCASE. CALIBRATING THE ENGINE OIL DIP STICK TO ENSURE THE CORRECT OIL LEVEL IN THE PAN "FIXES" OVER 90% OF THESE PROBLEMS.

If you "think" your engine has an oil consumption problem, you are seeing oil mist on your toad or you just want to verify that yours is correct; you need to verify that you are using the correct amount of oil. Note: the quantities listed INCLUDE the oil filter and is the total amount of oil you put in when changing oil and filter.

Now, CALIBRATE THE DIP STICK. Since the same engines/dip sticks are used in many different applications with different angles of installation, do not ASSUME that the dip stick is correctly marked. Calibration costs $0.

At the next oil change, drain oil, remove old filter (as usual). Then install the drain plug and new oil filter and add the engine's correct oil capacity for an oil change with new filter LESS THE NUMBER OF QUARTS you want between the "ADD" and "FULL" marks (let's say 2 quarts). So for an engine with 20 quart capacity you would add 18 quarts. Run the engine a few minutes, shut off and wait until oil has descended into the pan (at least 30 minutes and an hour is safer). Pull the dip stick and use a file or dremel tool to mark the oil level "ADD". Add the remaining two quarts, let the oil settle in the pan, pull the dipstick and mark this the "FULL" mark.

In many/most cases, you will find that your engine "throws out" the access oil and then "consumption" settles down to next to nothing. Put in the correct amount and your "consumption" issues may go away.

This applies to all ages (including brand new) of motorhomes and boats with every brand of engine.

Also, when checking the oil level with the dipstick it is safest to do it in the morning after the oil has had all night to flow back to the pan.

Do not add oil until the level reaches the ADD mark.

Finally, make a sticker to affix near oil fill:  OIL CAPACITY INCLUDING FILTER: xx QUARTS.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Oil Analysis, Many of You Do This?

Reply #29 –

Sven, I would like to do the sample method but probably not change my oil change annually.  I cannot get a sample out of the ISM using the dip stick tube.  If I had the drain valve, could get one that way.  MOT advises I not try to crack the drain plug a bit, get just a little oil out....said I could not believe the mess if I could not get the plug sealed back and lost lots of oil in the driveway.....Jackie says I could not believe either the aftermath of such an error on my part.

hope that answers what wanted, if not advise.
[/quote]

Michael,  sorry I didn't see your post earlier.  As far as taking a sample from the drain plug hole, I would recommend that you install a Fumoto valve when you change your oil.  Here is their website: 
Buy Fumoto® Valve Online | Replace Oil Drain Plug
2000 U320 mid entry  #5688
2006 Jeep Liberty


USMCR retired
SDFD retired
FEMA US&R TF8

Re: Oil Analysis, Many of You Do This?

Reply #30 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
Dave,

Keep an eye on it, but a couple of quarts in 3,000 miles would not be considered excessive by Cummins.

Be aware that Cummins did not supply the engine oil dipstick.  If it is inaccurate, it could cause you to OVERfill the crankcase and the engine would (properly) puke it out the crankcase vent hose.

So, next time the oil is changed, be sure to CALIBRATE THE ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK.

WOW I had no idea about this....THANK YOU for the information....I plan to have oil changed in May (1 year) and will mark the dip stick then....again Thank You for letting me know about this, I was completely in the dark!
Dave
2002 295 36'
Build 6006
Motorcade Member 17931
Toad 2003 Jeep Wrangler
2008 BMW R1200 GSA

Re: Oil Analysis, Many of You Do This?

Reply #31 –
Since I'll have a rebuilt engine next week I'm thinking that doing oil sampling would be a good thing. I'll find out exactly how I'm supposed to do whatever break-in there might be and if I'm supposed to do an oil change fairly soon. I've never had a brand-new (well, mostly) engine before so I'll need to learn what to do.

Brett, when should I take my first oil sample?

Re: Oil Analysis, Many of You Do This?

Reply #32 –
Check with the rebuilder, but in most cases, you will want to do the initial oil and filter change after a thousand miles or so. That should get rid of any of the contaminants from the rebuild.

Would pull the first oil sample a couple of thousand miles after that (after the initial oil change).
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Oil Analysis, Many of You Do This?

Reply #33 –
Quote from: Sven and Kristi –
Sven, I would like to do the sample method but probably not change my oil change annually.  I cannot get a sample out of the ISM using the dip stick tube.  If I had the drain valve, could get one that way.  MOT advises I not try to crack the drain plug a bit, get just a little oil out....said I could not believe the mess if I could not get the plug sealed back and lost lots of oil in the driveway.....Jackie says I could not believe either the aftermath of such an error on my part.

hope that answers what wanted, if not advise.


Michael,  sorry I didn't see your post earlier.  As far as taking a sample from the drain plug hole, I would recommend that you install a Fumoto valve when you change your oil.  Here is their website: 
Buy Fumoto® Valve Online | Replace Oil Drain Plug

It's actually very easy to install the Fumoto valve between oil changes without loosing a drop of oil.  A shop-vac pulling a vacuum through the oil fill tube will allow you to remove the drain plug.  You've got as much time as you need, as long as the vacuum is running, to either draw a sample or install the new drain plug.  It worked great for me anyway. 

Re: Oil Analysis, Many of You Do This?

Reply #34 –
Thanks.

Re: Oil Analysis, Many of You Do This?

Reply #35 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
This is an article I wrote for the FMCA Magazine several years ago:

CALIBRATING THE ENGINE OIL DIP STICK

Now, CALIBRATE THE DIP STICK. Since the same engines/dip sticks are used in many different applications with different angles of installation, do not ASSUME that the dip stick is correctly marked. Calibration costs $0.

At the next oil change, drain oil, remove old filter (as usual). Then install the drain plug and new oil filter and add the engine's correct oil capacity for an oil change with new filter LESS THE NUMBER OF QUARTS you want between the "ADD" and "FULL" marks (let's say 2 quarts). So for an engine with 20 quart capacity you would add 18 quarts. Run the engine a few minutes, shut off and wait until oil has descended into the pan (at least 30 minutes and an hour is safer). Pull the dip stick and use a file or dremel tool to mark the oil level "ADD". Add the remaining two quarts, let the oil settle in the pan, pull the dipstick and mark this the "FULL" mark.

Changed oil this last week, did the check and when I am full of oil the dip stick shows 2 quarts low.  In the past I would not pay attention to how much oil I put in. I filled till the dip stick showed full and tried to keep it at that amount. 
2014 ih45  (4th Foretravel owned)
 1997 36' U295 Sold in 2020, owned for 19 years
  U240 36' Sold to insurance company after melting in garage fire
    33' Foretravel on Dodge Chassis  Sold very long time ago

Re: Oil Analysis, Many of You Do This?

Reply #36 –
I sample my airplanes at every oil change and am a great believer in analysis.  We change oil far more often in airplane engines (piston)
As for the comment earlier that water will get in the oil on the Canadian West coast, that is true, but if you drive it frequently the moisture will boil off.  The killer, in any engine, is leaving old oil with moisture in and not running it. And just a 20min run is no use at all it has to be driven and bought up to operating temperature.
We also tend to change motor home oil too often, but that is not a bad thing, if it sits for long lengths of time.
I am now on synthetic and don't add any at all between changes.  Cummings M11, 2001, U320.
Speedbrd 1
2001 U320 Build #5865
Daihatsu Rocky Toad
VW Touareg
'82 F100 Stepside
Beech' Debonair

Re: Oil Analysis, Many of You Do This?

Reply #37 –
I don't mean to be a smartie, But I really don't want to know whats in my oil. As long as the dip stick says it's full, there is nothing shinny in it, and the rods aren't knocking, I am golden.
I only get a basic physical once a year. I'am 69, no meds, not on any drugs. I don't go to the doctor every time I cough.
I am a drag racer. I had a trans temp gauge once in my race car. I threw it out, because going into the final, I didn't want to know how hot the tranny was, I knew it was hot!
I know my Cat engine is going to wear out some day,maybe blow up on the road, but my goodness, it's a 250K+ engine, it's only got 110K now.
Over service your equipment, treat it kind, there are no worries.If it's going to blow up, fix it then. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. They have a saying in Australia "We got parts, we can fix it".
If you like to do this, I won't put you down. Lots of people do it.Just not me.
Just my 2 cents
CW
Chris and Tammy White  CDA Idaho
Previous owners 1997 U295 36' 3126 Cat 300 HP Build # 4998
Former Foretravel tech & RVIA certified tech
Former owner Custom Satellite home/RV satellites 
Former owner Vans LTD  van conversions
Unemployed, panhandler, drag racer NHRA #6348