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Topic: Front And rear Axle Oil Change (Read 2993 times) previous topic - next topic

Front And rear Axle Oil Change

I just got off the phone with a Meritor rep.  He looked for over five minutes for my front axle info after I gave him the model number and finally said to use straight 80-90 weight oil.  He didn't sound real sure and from what I've read here most use 80/140.

I don't know whether I have dino or synthetic in the front and rear axles at present.  I would like to run synthetic but don't want to put the wrong oil in as dino and synthetic don't mix.  I don't mind tipping the rear axle to allow the tubes to drain so I can use synthetic,
but what about the front wheel oil?  How much work is it to pull the hubs and clean out all the old oil?

Also, is there a way to tell what's in there now, short of sending a sample to a testing lab?

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #1 –
Normally the front hub oil doesn't need changing except at bearing service. You would have to remove the wheel to get all the oil out. Removing the whole bearing cover will remove most of it though if you were to lean it. Call FT and ask what was installed at the factory.

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #2 –
This is what I use in my steer hubs on m semi truck. When time to service RV I will switch to thus also. My Hub oil in RV looks brand new.
Hub Oil

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #3 –
I use 80-90 synthetic.

And my "method of change" is a bit different, because as craneman said, you can not easily get all the old oil out.

I use an old (ya, 50 years old) transmission suction pump through the large fill hole to remove all I can.  Overfill with new oil. Drain again.  Fill to proper level. Drive it.  Next convenient time, repeat.  Each "procedure" takes only 4-5 minutes and, unless there is a problem with the bearings (like metal, water or other contaminant in the oil), I am comfortable with the process.

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #4 –
Quote from: craneman –
Call FT and ask what was installed at the factory.

Will they tell me?  I'm not a member of anything except this forum.

Regarding the Stemco hub cap,  I haven't removed the wheel cover yet to have a look, but if I want/need to replace the Stemco's is there a part number on them?

Is this a good deal with $13.00 for freight?
Mobil Delvac Syn Gear Oil 80W140 (PAIL)

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #5 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
I use 80-90 synthetic.

And my "method of change" is a bit different, because as craneman said, you can not easily get all the old oil out.

I use an old (ya, 50 years old) transmission suction pump through the large fill hole to remove all I can.  Overfill with new oil. Drain again.  Fill to proper level. Drive it.  Next convenient time, repeat.  Each "procedure" takes only 4-5 minutes and, unless there is a problem with the bearings (like metal, water or other contaminant in the oil), I am comfortable with the process.

Brett,
Essentially Gear Oil like this one correct?

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #6 –
T-Man I think when i changed the  Stemco hub cap on my last FT, I was able to locate it from a local truck parts store with a part number that was visible on the original. looks like this :https://www.peterbiltparts.com/wheels-hubs/hub-caps-gaskets-accessories/hub-caps/340-4009?gclid=CKLOh7yNndQCFQuraQodenQGqQ

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #8 –
Quote from: propman –
T-Man I think when i changed the  Stemco hub cap on my last FT, I was able to locate it from a local truck parts store with a part number that was visible on the original. looks like this :https://www.peterbiltparts.com/wheels-hubs/hub-caps-gaskets-accessories/hub-caps/340-4009?gclid=CKLOh7yNndQCFQuraQodenQGqQ

My mistake. I don't think I need any hubcaps, maybe just the red plugs.  Do they have a part number or is it a "match-up" at the parts counter?

I have removed the wheel covers and the oil looks good, not milky and to the full mark.  At what mileage is the bearing service due?

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #9 –
Foretravel's recommended maintenance interval for changing the oil in the front hubs is yearly.  Our 1998 U-320 has hubs with part number 343-4024.

The red plugs are the following part number:
STE 359-5990

The gaskets that go between the wheel and the oil hub are the following part number:
STE 330-3009

The oil bath hub bolts for this model are 5/16 and require 12-16 ft/lbs of torque to seat the hub against the gasket and wheel.

Chris

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #10 –
Quote from: stump –
This is what I use in my steer hubs on m semi truck. When time to service RV I will switch to thus also. My Hub oil in RV looks brand new.
Hub Oil

Can I get most of the old oil out and then just add the Lucas to fill? 
Spec sheet says it blends with synthetic which I probably don't have.

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #11 –
Quote from: Travelin' Man –
Can I get most of the old oil out and then just add the Lucas to fill? 
Spec sheet says it blends with synthetic which I probably don't have.
You can jack up one side or drive up on some ramps say on your left side get as much tilt as reasonably possible you will need front and rear blocks so you don't twist coach. Remove the hubcap bolts and let it drain out. You will need new hubcap gaskets reinstall hubcap.put coach back level and full hub up to the line.it is going to take awhile but oil level will drop as it goes into the hub.then refill. Repeat for other side. Keep an eye on levels and adjust as necessary.When time to do seals etc hubs are removed oil completly drained bearings washed and inspected re oiled and reassembled hub is filled some before putting it on the spindle and outer bearing is put in place.

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #12 –
Quote from: Travelin' Man –
My mistake. I don't think I need any hubcaps, maybe just the red plugs.  Do they have a part number or is it a "match-up" at the parts counter?

I have removed the wheel covers and the oil looks good, not milky and to the full mark.  At what mileage is the bearing service due?
I also removed the front hub caps, seeing no use for them.  I'd prefer to be able to check my hub oil daily when on the road - old habit from driving fire engines.

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #13 –
From the Eaton Service manual
100,000 Miles or Annual Inspection
For non-driven axles check lubricant level and condition. If
lubricant is contaminated replace old lubricant with the same
type lubricant. If lubricant condition is good and level is low,
fill to the proper level. Check for any signs of leakage at the
seal or hubcap gasket areas. Check for oil soaked brake linings.
For driven axles, check for any signs of leakage at the seal or
axle flange gasket areas. Also check for leaks at hub fill hole if
so equipped. Check for oil soaked brake linings.
Take appropriate action if leaks or oil soaked brake linings are
noted.

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #14 –
We out a center hole in our front hub caps using a hole saw.  And I lean over and look at the oil level before every trip.  And when one side of ground is lower, it is interesting to see one hub low and the other hub too full.

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #15 –
The little red caps are the only vent point. Using the hub caps may reduce water intrusion.

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #16 –
Hubba-Hubba!

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #17 –
When I refer to hub cap I am talking about the plastic hub cover with the red plug in it. Chrome decorative hub caps will not pose any issues. The hubcap has a gasket that seals the oil in. That metal plug in the picture above is for electrical conduit box holes.
Hub Caps | STEMCO ::)

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #18 –
All synthetic oils blend with dino oils.  You do not need to worry about contamination.  Note how many engine oils are actually blends.  Don't bother trying to get all the  old oil out unless the oil is contaminated.

Re: Front And rear Axle Oil Change

Reply #19 –
At the frequency I change my oil I've always been a dino guy, with no knowledge of synthetics.  But, when I spoke with the Meritor rep
the other day he told me they would not mix.  Since then, with the forum's input and some reading I've found out otherwise.  Apparently the only downside to mixing the two is a reduced life for the synthetic as it's diluted.