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Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

My Dometic fridge NDR1062 is not cooling.  On the way home from my last trip it started going down.  I had to crank up the temp to keep it working and it doesn't cool at all on LP or AC.  LP is working, chimney stack is hot and so is AC.  When I was emptying the fridge I thought I smelled ammonia, wife didn't.  When looking in the vent window behind the fridge I see a yellow residue at the base of the stack.  Any ideas would be helpful.  Thinking I will be making a trip to Shipshewana for a new fidge or cooling unit.
Thanks, John M

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #1
Shut it off now!!!! Huge fire hazard

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #2
Yup OFF NOW unless you want to call the fire department.

It is dead.  You either need a new cooling unit, new absorption refrigerator, or residential refrigerator.

Depends on your budget and how much boon-docking you do.

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #3
 X2  What Tim & Brett said, big time! We had one go down with the same experience as noted. Bite the bullet, it's not worth re-building, don't ask why we know. 

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #4
It's TU. Not sure of your width but if you are going to stay with an RV fridge, consider a helium unit. No fire risk. Contact Jerry Maddux for info as he did a DIY installation. PPL is one of the Attwood Helium Refrigerator dealers: RV Refrigerators and Parts - PPL Motor Homes

No double doors available from Attwood for helium units.

Factory site: Atwood Helium Refrigerators

I know some of the early ones had problems so do your research before buying.

Our U300 had a bad fridge (same failure as yours) but I had a new Norcold in our garage (horse traded for it) so I installed it. Has been working great for almost eight years.

Other options are to replace the cooling unit in your old one or go to a residential unit.

If you coach has the old style fridge compartment, review my old posts for what I had to do to make it fireproof. Most RV fires are caused by fridge failures with the ammonia/hydrogen catching fire. Here is a link to what I did to the fridge compartment: U300 fridge enclosure modification. - Google Photos

PM if you have questions.

John, you were one of the lucky ones!!! Check the net for "Foretravel," "salvage," and you will see several Foretravels burned in the fridge location.

Pierce


Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #5
You will need to decide what your replacement will be.    I decided to replace the cooling unit for several reasons.  I also added the ARP safety control. 

You will have decide what works best for you.

Rich

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #6
We replaced the cooling unit in ours with one made by the Amish in Shipshewana Indiana over four years ago and have been well pleased. Search for "Amish Cooling Unit."

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #7
Hi Rich,

We too put a new (Amish) absorption core just recently - we do lots of dry camping. I can't say the freezer it is as cold as a residential, otherwise it is great. By the time you pay labor for the remodel space either way you choose is about the same price - a couple of coach bucks. T i sure is a big job for changing out the absorption unit - 7 hours at MOT.

All said and done the residential is a lot less worry and you have more inside space plus your ice cream is colder.
Jim

2002 U320

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #8
I want to thank everyone for the input and concerns.  Since we were doubtful of the issues and concerned with our findings we had the fridge turned off.  I have a lot of research to do.  I have a small opening to work with and don't know if I can find a residential fridge to fit.  My opening is 23 11/16" wide by 59 15/16" high by 24" deep.  I don't want to cut the cabinets or lose any storage.  Time to research.

John M.

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #9
I want to thank everyone for the input and concerns.  Since we were doubtful of the issues and concerned with our findings we had the fridge turned off.  I have a lot of research to do.  I have a small opening to work with and don't know if I can find a residential fridge to fit.  My opening is 23 11/16" wide by 59 15/16" high by 24" deep.  I don't want to cut the cabinets or lose any storage.  Time to research.

Not wanting to cut cabinents was why I chose to simply have the Amish replace the cooling unit.

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #10
John,

Your OEM Dometic probably has  a step at the bottom of the compartment. As you can see in my photo link, other refrigerators don't have the step so the modified floor is flat. Several RV fridges will fit your opening including the Norcold. If you do DIY, it will take a couple of days to make the modifications from Dometic to a flat floor residential or RV refrigerator. Either way, you won't lose any storage space on the top, bottom or sides.

Pierce


Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #11
D.J.
I will be calling JC Refrigeration in Sipshwana on Monday for a price and a appointment. We are in Illinois and it's not far from where we are at.  I would rather have them do the install.  The wife wants to keep the wood look on the fridge and does not want to get away from the original look.
John M

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #12
Residential you will be ok width, height will be the challenge Shop abt.com and
AJ Madison.com

You can choose by size (width) on these web sites

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #13
If you stick with an absorption unit I echo Rich get an ARP controller.

http://rvcoolingunit.com/-ARP-21-Refrigerator-Failure-prevention-with-Fan-Control-and-a-new-Fan-P5652923.aspx

The ARP keeps the coils from overheating which causes the over pressure which causes the coils to blow out in the first place.

The rvcoolingunit.com guys also sell the Amish coils. They have videos on the site that show how to replace. You might want to check them out before you have someone else do it. The NDR1062 is pretty easy to man handle unlike the big double door units. Search for NDR1062 on their site.

see ya
ken

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #14
I want to thank everyone for the input and concerns.  Since we were doubtful of the issues and concerned with our findings we had the fridge turned off.  I have a lot of research to do.  I have a small opening to work with...................  My opening is 23 11/16" wide by 59 15/16" high by 24" deep.  I don't want to cut the cabinets or lose any storage.  Time to research.
John M.
John,

ForeForums search is your friend.  Specifically, look at:

Absorption Refrigerator Options in a U270

Then specifically look at the attached spread sheet in Reply #27 and you will see that it compares Amish coil replacements, residentials and the Atwood (which fits your criteria, including dimensions, perfectly).  I was the first or second FoFum to install an Atwood and it was a good choice.  The decision making logic and the operating results are all there in that thread.  The first Atwood that I installed, I got alarmed about because of some insulation "oozing" out of it, so I asked for and got a warranty replacement.  Further correspondence with Atwood sort of indicated that it was an early manufacturing process growing pain and nothing to worry about.  The (2) units worked extremely well and I suggest you talk with Ric Green for an update.  That Atwood has several years of use on it by now. 

Anyway, the whole thread is still pertinent and I still feel the same way today about residential vs. absorption.  After we spent the summer traveling last year, up in the Canadian maritimes, I am even more thankful for the non residential, absorption, non-solar original design of our FT's.  Solar and a residential refrigerator would just not be friendly in the type of camping that we were able to enjoy in the maritimes.  Too many trees and mostly 30 Amp power in both the Provincial and National parks.  Most of the 50 Amp power that we found was in private campgrounds and those didn't have the spectacular waterfront locations that we were able to score because we didn't have to live power pole to power pole..  A residential would have been a burden.  The need to be in the open for solar would have been a burden.

HTH,
Neal


Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #16
Scheduled to put in residential Samsung unit on July 10 @MOT.  Tired of dometic slow recovery when doors opening and frost even with fans inside.  Time to step up to new technology.

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #17
As was posted the refer choice depends on use and power availability. 

150 amp hours consumed average per 24 hours I see here is either a non or big issue.

The Dometic 7832 in our 97 was way ahead of its time in some ways as it does offer a compressor in the freezer side if needed.

One for sale in the ads here?

At least four 8g8d's imo for a residential.

And I would substitute lifeline AGM's at 250 amp hours rating each versus the std 225 amp hour gels we now use.

That would add 50 amp hours in total to get down to 50% SOC.

You really can only go from 50-90% SOC. quickly enough.

Three gels would give 275? Amp hours where four lifeline  AGM's would give over 400.

Plus led everything.

Charging our three gels shows bulk charge rates of 110 amps out of a 130 rating on the magnum.

Similar from the alternator.

So the fourth battery might benefit from a even bigger alternator and a 150 amp charger like I think the sw3000 has?

My guru buddy constantly is adding capacity to rv's with residential refers.

His minimum is four 8'ds and 500 watt solar


Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #18
Anyway, the whole thread is still pertinent and I still feel the same way today about residential vs. absorption.  After we spent the summer traveling last year, up in the Canadian maritimes, I am even more thankful for the non residential, absorption, non-solar original design of our FT's.  Solar and a residential refrigerator would just not be friendly in the type of camping that we were able to enjoy in the maritimes.  Too many trees and mostly 30 Amp power in both the Provincial and National parks.  Most of the 50 Amp power that we found was in private campgrounds and those didn't have the spectacular waterfront locations that we were able to score because we didn't have to live power pole to power pole..  A residential would have been a burden.  The need to be in the open for solar would have been a burden.
HTH,
Neal
Neal,

Totally agree with you. Absorption is an excellent compromise for those who dry camp a lot. Our big propane tank stores a huge amount of energy. Even though we have a lot of solar on the roof, we do crawl through the trees to get to some campsites and get less from the solar so would not want to depend on 12V or 110V for the fridge. With us, the generator is not an option. It's probably been a couple of years since we used it for AC so other than an oil change, it never gets any use. At $1200, an Atwood helium reefer with a 20 year lifespan only costs $60/yr.

A big coach with slides would do well with a residential fridge as they would never be able to get to the primitive sites we go to so shore power is perfect. Choice would seem based on lifestyle with no judgement intended.

Pierce

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Not Working

Reply #19
John- we replaced our cooling unit and also have the ARP system plus fan on ours.  Works great, we live in our coach full time and sometimes wind up dry camping even when we didn't plan to.....like the other night when power went out.  Got up in the morning, perked coffee on the propane stove, refrigerator kept everything cold including beer until the electric repair was completed.

We have the best of both worlds.  I added 500 watts of solar, still using my 2 8G8D batteries, and my big propane tank.  We are ready to boondock anywhere and hook up when we want to.

Do what fits your lifestyle, have fun, cya down the road................ ^.^d