Bulkhead Question

Topic: Bulkhead Question (Read 2493 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #25 – June 27, 2017, 08:59:18 am

Quote from: Karl Shurtleff – June 27, 2017, 08:45:31 am

After I asked the question I found your post from 7 years ago...Sorry about that! I clicked on the link that you had for the plug for the fiberglass after drilling and it is not found. I will have to look for a new plug. I want to locate everything prior to starting. Thanks for all the help!

Ya, not surprising that a PN would change over 7 years.

Please do post a new PN for a waterproof plug like that one. I will go back and update the PN in the original post.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #26 – June 27, 2017, 09:51:01 am

Looks like the PN is the same but a new link please verify this is the same plug as the one you recommend:

Heyco 3837 KOS-LT 1 BLACK LIQUID TIGHT KNOCK-OUT SEAL (package of 10):...

https://www.heyco.com/Liquid_Tight_Cordgrips/product.cfm?product=Hole-Plugs&section=Liquid_Tight_Cordgrips

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #27 – June 28, 2017, 05:15:35 pm

With thanks to all who have provided background information, insights and help with this, I have been in touch with FT, who's tech rep said that my local Authorized Service Center, RnR RV, in Spokane, WA can do the bulkhead work.

RnR states that they have done this project before, and seemed confident of their ability to address the bulkhead restoration. Therefore, I scheduled my coach into their shop on the 6th of July.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #28 – June 28, 2017, 06:08:22 pm

That's great news. I hope they get it repaired soon so you can be out enjoying your motorhome.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #29 – June 28, 2017, 06:10:03 pm

If you get a chance, take lots of photos. Everybody is interested in bulkheads!
jor

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #30 – June 28, 2017, 07:43:03 pm

Thanks, and I will take as many photos as the shop will allow!!

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #31 – June 28, 2017, 10:48:04 pm

Tell them the FT forum demands to see it repaired by pictures.
JohnH

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #32 – June 28, 2017, 11:00:01 pm

Good point. I will!

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #33 – June 28, 2017, 11:57:32 pm

Does the shop understand that this is a frame replacement, not just a bulk head bolting repair?

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #34 – June 29, 2017, 12:05:20 am

I really love these coaches and I get sort of excited when I read about restorations and repairs like this and others. Your coach, when repaired properly, will have a history of...well, caring that other rigs may not have down the road. Document your efforts and start the book for the next guy that gets your coach, when you no longer remember where you parked the Foretravel many, many years from now.

Good luck with the efforts! Floor it.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #35 – June 29, 2017, 10:55:33 am

Yes, the shop is aware that this involves removing the belly plate and restoring/replacing/welding the frame tubing. They've done it before.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #36 – June 29, 2017, 12:35:27 pm

Re: taking photos - you might also mention that a nice detailed photo report, posted on our Forum, will (potentially) be seen by a lot of eyeballs (4500 members!). Excellent FREE advertising for their shop!

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #37 – July 03, 2017, 11:14:01 am

Quote from: RandallBrink – June 28, 2017, 05:15:35 pm

With thanks to all who have provided background information, insights and help with this, I have been in touch with FT, who's tech rep said that my local Authorized Service Center, RnR RV, in Spokane, WA can do the bulkhead work.

RnR states that they have done this project before, and seemed confident of their ability to address the bulkhead restoration. Therefore, I scheduled my coach into their shop on the 6th of July.

I was a service adviser at R&R for 2 years before I retired. The Service manager is Kieth Woodruff, who was the service manager for the Foretravel store in Liberty Lake when I also worked there as a tech.
R&R is capable to do the job. They have all the equipment to do it correct and professional. With that said, I highly recommend getting some sort of estimate in advance from them. Their shop rate is close to, if not at $150.00 an hour. This is due in part because of the tax on labor in Washington.
From the pictures I see, and by looking at my friend's U270 job which he is doing himself,this is a minimum of a 50 hour project, plus materials. R&R is a flat rate shop, so they will charge for every minute they work on it. Foretravel of Texas does these all the time, so they are a little more efficient doing the job cost wise.
Lastly, unless it has changed there, an appointment date is to bring the coach in to get "inline" to be repaired. During the summer months, I would expect the coach to be there all summer.A question I would ask in advance.
I sent my neighbor to R&R for some minor gen set and slide out repairs last summer on his gas coach, they had the coach 2 months.
I don't mean to bad mouth the place, that is not my intention. I am sorry if I bummed you out, but just want you to enter this project with your eye's wide open.I care about my Foretravel family.
Chris

Chris

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #38 – July 03, 2017, 11:30:50 am

Chris,

Very interesting and good info. I may rethink this. I started out thinking I would have a welding shop do this, since it appears to be mostly welding/fabricating. Might re-examine that.

Thanks very much for this insight.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #39 – July 03, 2017, 02:25:02 pm

Quote from: RandallBrink – July 03, 2017, 11:30:50 am

Chris,

Very interesting and good info. I may rethink this. I started out thinking I would have a welding shop do this, since it appears to be mostly welding/fabricating. Might re-examine that.

Thanks very much for this insight.

Your welcome. Again,not bad mouthing them, just watching out for you. They do estimates for body and paint all the time. They have an estimator. I would take it in for an estimate first, then ask for a time frame.You still may have to leave it. They may charge 1hr for the estimate. At least you won't get a big surprise in the end.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #40 – July 03, 2017, 02:40:09 pm

Very good point Chris. I have an appointment later this week and will do just that. Thanks again.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #41 – July 04, 2017, 04:51:05 pm

When MOT had ours rebuilt they replaced the 16 ga. wall square tubing with 11 gauge. Same tubing OD - thicker tubing wall.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #42 – July 04, 2017, 06:10:01 pm

When I did our bulkhead rebuild, I used a mixture of 11 gage and 13 gage tubing, both inch and a half square tubing (11 gage) and 3/4" X 1.5" (13 gage on the diagonals). I have attached a picture comparing the wall thicknesses of 18 gage (I believe that 18 gage is what FOT used for the tubing that didn't form the bulkhead joint, based on a picture attached below that I think I found on the forum), 13 gage, and 11 gage tubing FYI. So far, I haven't seen anybody else add the diagonals... perhaps because it makes adding the rigid foam insulation more difficult. If I was running a shop doing this work, I would weld the diagonals, vacuum bag the assembly bonding the bottom skin, spray polyurethane foam insulation in the cavities, trim it flat against the top exposed framing and finally vacuum bond the top skin sealing the whole assembly. But I would have to charge so much, I doubt anyone would pay it...
Don

Quote from: Carol & Scott – July 04, 2017, 04:51:05 pm

When MOT had ours rebuilt they replaced the 16 ga. wall square tubing with 11 gauge. Same tubing OD - thicker tubing wall.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #43 – July 04, 2017, 06:23:13 pm

I think .065 would be a minimum thickness.. I would go .088 or an .095 as it will hold for a while and if you have the choice pay for good paint and primer ..

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #44 – July 04, 2017, 08:09:14 pm

Randall,
If you would prefer to have the work done in Nac, you could have it temporarily fixed by a local shop so you can make the journey down there. The basement floor needs to be supported for the tank loads as well as fore/aft support for the suspension while going down the road. When separation of that joint occurs, fore/aft suspension loads (via the trailing arms) get transferred to the vertical supports. Attached is diagram showing the breakage from one owner. (credit goes to the original poster, whom I lost track of). I would suggest a good inspection for any similar breakage.

Nothing has been said about the front bulkhead. How does it look?
Also, when you look at the very bottom of the coach do you see any budging of the skin?
You don't want to spend the $ to fix the rear when the front isn't too far behind. If so, a full basement panel would is not out of the question and if so, you might be able to get the drawing from Foretravel and have it fabricated before you arrive. I would think any of the mentioned vendors could do this.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #45 – July 04, 2017, 10:19:52 pm

Thanks for the picture (diagram) Ours was broken too. Previous owner used two come-along's to pull the front and back into place.Then welded 1 1/2" X 2 1/2" (or whatever the width is) heavy tube in between the vertical angle's. He also welded the vertical angle themselves. Instead of messing with the bolts, he cut the belly glass back about 6"'s and stitch welded a 3/8" thick by 4" wide bar across, then sealed it with with foil tape over that. It was done several years ago. I closely inspected it this summer, only had one, 1" spot where I had to reseal the tape.Probably from a rock.
But the coach wasn't rusting to start with, so he had good metal to weld to. No bolts in the rear. Front is fine.
Cheers

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #46 – July 04, 2017, 10:40:41 pm

Chris,

Got any pictures of that?

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #47 – July 05, 2017, 11:35:04 am

Here is our welded repair. I am happy with it. As I mentioned elsewhere, you need good metal to weld to. My friends U270 coming from Alaska was very rusty. He did the bolt through repair and it only lasted a year.He is now doing the major rebuild.
I completely inspected this a month ago. It's doing fine.I watch it like a hawk. It was done several years ago. Both the previous owner, and myself, tow Jeeps behind it, which also adds stress.
You can see the heavy square tubing, welded between the upright angle iron.Sorry for the weak pictures. Hard to do in the dark on your back.
You can see the foil tape sealing, and also no bolts.
Chris

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #48 – July 05, 2017, 12:08:24 pm

Interesting! The rectangular tubing welded in between the vertical angle iron supports is very similar to what I did when I repaired our bulkhead joint, except that I also added some gussets where the rectangular tubes meet the heavy framing above. My idea was to remove some of the stress off of the bulkhead joint by transferring it to the heavy engine carriage framing above.
Don

Quote from: gracerace – July 05, 2017, 11:35:04 am

Here is our welded repair. I am happy with it. As I mentioned elsewhere, you need good metal to weld to. My friends U270 coming from Alaska was very rusty. He did the bolt through repair and it only lasted a year.He is now doing the major rebuild.
I completely inspected this a month ago. It's doing fine.I watch it like a hawk. It was done several years ago. Both the previous owner, and myself, tow Jeeps behind it, which also adds stress.
You can see the heavy square tubing, welded between the upright angle iron.Sorry for the weak pictures. Hard to do in the dark on your back.
You can see the foil tape sealing, and also no bolts.
Chris

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #49 – July 05, 2017, 02:10:35 pm

Thank you for the suggestion and photos. Initially, I am going to have the service center here inspect and estimate the project. I would much prefer to have the work done here locally if at all possible. My front bulkhead seems to be good, but of course will not really know until the Fiberglas pan is removed for inspection.

In re the other post with the frame diagram, many thanks. I am aghast that the frame bulkhead deterioration can affect the axle position.

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