Bulkhead Question

Topic: Bulkhead Question (Read 2493 times) previous topic - next topic

Bulkhead Question

June 25, 2017, 04:16:12 pm

I am new here, and have been spending a great deal of time reading the terrific posts and learning everything I can about FT. When I came upon the extensive thread regarding the bulkhead corrosion, I panicked, because I knew nothing about this prior to purchasing my GV and therefore did not include the bulkhead in the pre-purchase inspection.

I am posting some photos I took of the rear bulkhead seam, in order to ask if any of the members here could comment on them. I know that the posters to the thread stated that not much can be determined from a casual external inspection. Nevertheless any observations on the condition will be greatly appreciated.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #1 – June 25, 2017, 05:06:16 pm

Yup, you have a big problem.

The second picture shows the fiberglass sagged and separated and the box beam sagging. No structural connection between the 1/4" thick angle and the box beam.

And, third picture, many missing or broken Rolok bolts and the box beam they should be screwed into sagging way down.

Where are you located?

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #2 – June 25, 2017, 05:12:54 pm

Located in Spokane, WA. Even though we have a FT "authorized service center" here, I don't know that I would trust any outlying shop with something like this.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #3 – June 25, 2017, 05:28:15 pm

Go through Don's pictures of his rebuild of the bulkhead on his coach. It is not complex, just a lot of work for a welder. Don't know how far forward you will need to go to find solid metal. That will tell you the extend of the rebuild.

You can get some idea of how far it extends by looking carefully for "rust jacking"-- the pushing down of the fiberglass underbelly by rusting of the box beams. Go forward from that rear bulkhead until you no longer see rust jacking.

This damage could extend forward only to the front of the wet bay, or it could be more extensive.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #4 – June 25, 2017, 05:30:17 pm

Yes it is something to be repaired, but the repair while expensive still likely be worth repairing, especially if you can get to Nacogdoches.
Since this often tied to internal water damage, some have been successful getting insurance to pay for it.
No need to totally panic just yet, but needs addressed

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #5 – June 25, 2017, 05:41:13 pm

Thank you very much for this information. I will inspect accordingly.

My research here in the forum would indicate that this is a repair that should only be made at the factory, is this the general consensus on this issue?

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #6 – June 25, 2017, 05:42:27 pm

Thank you, that is an interesting thought. As to travel to Nagadoches, my initial concern is whether the coach is safe to drive?

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #7 – June 25, 2017, 05:45:53 pm

My suggestion is to study how the repair needs to be made (excellent posts with pictures on this website).

Then find a welder in your area. Get him familiar with the repair from this website and then turn him loose.

Without looking a lot more carefully at the structure, I would not venture a guess on how it would do in a cross country trip.

Also, might be a good idea to touch base with Don who personally did this on his coach.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #8 – June 25, 2017, 06:04:47 pm

I am not finding the pictures of the repair to which you preferred. Can you please advise where they are located?

Thanks!

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #9 – June 25, 2017, 06:14:26 pm

If you're handy, you can do the repair yourself. You just need a wire feed welder, a metal cutting band saw and some inexpensive HF tools. Don did an outstanding job and did it in his driveway as I remember.

Pierce

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #10 – June 25, 2017, 06:18:28 pm

Rear Bulkhead Repair

Before, During, After

Don starts buttoning her up (split from What did you do to your coach)

Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #11 – June 25, 2017, 06:30:02 pm

fair to say, Don's work is the ultimate in repairs -

the posts will give you an idea of the structure and what you are dealing with. Don's work is amazing and exquisite, it was a shame to cover all that up!

a sturdy repair can be accomplished by a good welder that knows what he is doing, Recent bulkhead repairs in NAC have been coming in around $3-$5K, your mileage will vary based (on as Brett points out) how far forward the rust goes on the lower structure. It is possible, but unlikely that you will have to replace the entire subframe. This lower frame creates the basement space and rigidity in the chassis, but the main chassis rails are the primary structural members.

How long have you been driving it that way? Did you just purchase coach? What city/state are you located i

Tim Fiedler

Sure Start Soft Start

www.tcerdirect.com generator-gas-prod 630 240-9139
Gen-Pro

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #12 – June 25, 2017, 06:41:25 pm

Thank you very much for these links. I am diving into creating a plan for the project instead of wallowing in sorrow and regret.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #13 – June 25, 2017, 06:43:00 pm

EXCELLENT.

Let us know if we can help.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #14 – June 25, 2017, 06:45:28 pm

Thanks very much for the information. $3-5K would be a small price to pay for putting this in the rear view.

I have only driven the coach 60 mi. from N. Idaho, the point of purchase, to Spokane, WA. It drove superbly, and at that point I had no knowledge of the problem.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #15 – June 25, 2017, 06:46:10 pm

I certainly will, and greatly appreciate the help you have provided so far.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #16 – June 25, 2017, 06:58:30 pm

Here is a post on complete bay floor replacement

Bay floor replacement

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #17 – June 25, 2017, 07:09:46 pm

After viewing the repair that Don did, a welding shop in your area will be able to do the job. Might want to shop around before you commit to a particular shop and make sure they can do the job without cutting corners.

Pierce

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #18 – June 25, 2017, 07:30:35 pm

Quote from: Tim Fiedler – June 25, 2017, 06:30:02 pm

This lower frame creates the basement space and rigidity in the chassis, but the main chassis rails are the primary structural members.

Just a very respectful correction, the UniHome monocoque chassis does not have main chassis rails.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #19 – June 25, 2017, 07:33:16 pm

Quote from: prfleming – June 25, 2017, 07:30:35 pm

Just a very respectful correction, the UniHome monocoque chassis does not have main chassis rails.

Correct.

The lower basement, upper basement/motorhome floor and roof are the three front to rear "frame" members in the monocoque chassis.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #20 – June 25, 2017, 07:39:58 pm

Quote from: prfleming – June 25, 2017, 07:30:35 pm

Just a very respectful correction, the UniHome monocoque chassis does not have main chassis rails.

Our semi-monocoque starts with frame rails front and back but the mid section is monocoque. Fortunately, when the floor goes, the interior floor, the sides and roof keep everything pretty much aligned so just a bit of measuring before welding in the new tubing will bring it back to OEM specs.

Too bad they didn't go to full monocoque like the GM buses and we wouldn't have the bulkhead problem. Water leaks rusting the tubing out would still be there though.

Pierce

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #21 – June 27, 2017, 08:04:23 am

At this point my bulkheads look good on my 94 GV...is there any way to prevent the problem from happening? Mine still has less than 30 K miles and has been stored inside, but it is getting used a lot now and I would like to keep this from happening in the future. Thanks for any advice!

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #22 – June 27, 2017, 08:15:45 am

Karl,

As has been said for many years, there are a couple of common entry points for water into the rear bulkhead area:

Water in the wet bay-- good housekeeping says to never let water sit in there. Never wash it out, etc.

Failure of the seal around the drop down door in the wet bay. In worse cases, new aluminum angle can be used to "redo" this area.

Cracks in the coach under body caused by lack of spreading the load of hose reels, electric cord reels, etc. Couple of 4X4" pieces of aluminum drilled in the center and used as large "fender washers" to spread the load is a $5 fix for this.

The heads of the Rolok bolts are serrated-- serves as a locking mechanism. Also functions as a "stand off" allowing water to wick past the head, through the 1/4" angle and into the box beam/bolt junction. That is why a number of broken Roloks are broken exactly where the Rolok first starts into the box beam (4-5 threads in). My recommendation in the bulkhead document 8 years ago is to mask off the heads of the Roloks so you can get a wrench on them in the future, mask off just forward on the fiberglass and use 1/2 a can of regular automotive undercoating to seal this.

None of these are complicated or require special tools or skills OR much money.

And, check once a year, replacing any broken Roloks with through bolts as described in the bulkhead document. Each broken one puts additional strain on its remaining neighbors.

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #23 – June 27, 2017, 08:45:10 am

Here is a welding checklist too.

Welding Checklist

Re: Bulkhead Question

Reply #24 – June 27, 2017, 08:45:31 am

Quote from: wolfe10 – June 27, 2017, 08:15:45 am

Karl,

As has been said for many years, there are a couple of common entry points for water into the rear bulkhead area:

Water in the wet bay-- good housekeeping says to never let water sit in there. Never wash it out, etc.

Failure of the seal around the drop down door in the wet bay. In worse cases, new aluminum angle can be used to "redo" this area.

Cracks in the coach under body caused by lack of spreading the load of hose reels, electric cord reels, etc. Couple of 4X4" pieces of aluminum drilled in the center and used as large "fender washers" to spread the load is a $5 fix for this.

The heads of the Rolok bolts are serrated-- serves as a locking mechanism. Also functions as a "stand off" allowing water to wick past the head, through the 1/4" angle and into the box beam/bolt junction. That is why a number of broken Roloks are broken exactly where the Rolok first starts into the box beam (4-5 threads in). My recommendation in the bulkhead document 8 years ago is to mask off the heads of the Roloks so you can get a wrench on them in the future, mask off just forward on the fiberglass and use 1/2 a can of regular automotive undercoating to seal this.

None of these are complicated or require special tools or skills OR much money.

And, check once a year, replacing any broken Roloks with through bolts as described in the bulkhead document. Each broken one puts additional strain on its remaining neighbors.

After I asked the question I found your post from 7 years ago...Sorry about that! I clicked on the link that you had for the plug for the fiberglass after drilling and it is not found. I will have to look for a new plug. I want to locate everything prior to starting. Thanks for all the help!

Affiliate Notice