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Topic: Removing the Entry Door Post (Read 1046 times) previous topic - next topic

Removing the Entry Door Post

What I am calling the entry door post is the post on the left side of the door, which is what catches the door latch when it is closed. It sticks out into the door entryway about 1.5". I am trying to remove and replace seats and would like to remove that post so I can more-safely take them into and out of the coach.
 
Looking at the post, it appears to be mounted into a plate, which is attached to the door frame with six "rivet-looking" fasteners. The post itself has a hex head on the end of its shaft. It does not appear to want to turn. I have sprayed around it with Kroil, but it still does not seem to want to budge.
 
Before I upgrade my use of force to the frustrated level, is there something else I have to do to remove it?
 
Thanks,
 
Trent





(I know "Search is your friend," but when I did a search on "door post" I got 28 pages of hits.)
Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385

Re: Removing the Entry Door Post

Reply #1 –
Quote from: TulsaTrent –
(I know "Search is your friend," but when I did a search on "door post" I got 28 pages of hits.)

Search tip:  Putting the search term "door post" into quotation marks will make the search look for an exact match and reduce 28 pages of hits to 5 hits on 1 page.  Without quotation marks, you're asking it to look for "door" and/or "post".

Hope this helps.
2019 Pleasure Way Lexor

Re: Removing the Entry Door Post

Reply #2 –
Rick,
 
Thanks very much for that tip. It did lower the hits to five. One was mine, and ONE other pertained to the topic. None of them told how to remove the door post.
 
Has ANYONE removed their door post? Is it just a matter of using a long enough bar on that 3/4" post, or does that risk breaking or damaging the door post?
 
Thanks,
 
Trent
Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385

Re: Removing the Entry Door Post

Reply #3 –
I just looked at what you are talking about. You would need to drill out the 6 rivets as there has to be a nut on the back of that plate. Because the shaft moves freely what ever holds the shaft is locked. Looking at my entry the lip behind the shaft is only a 1/4" less than the shaft. Put some padding on the shaft with duct tape to protect the seats.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Removing the Entry Door Post

Reply #4 –
If you are talking about the the door catch, it should have a hex head on it so you can unscrew it.
The selected media item is not currently available.Bill&Doris 97 U270 36'
University of Parris Island Class of 66
Semper Fi  Build# 5174 MC#17094

Re: Removing the Entry Door Post

Reply #5 –
Quote from: Bill Willett –
If you are talking about the the door catch, it should have a hex head on it so you can unscrew it.
Agree. If it's a 'floating" post, it un-screws. Have done it many times.
Chris and Tammy White  CDA Idaho
Previous owners 1997 U295 36' 3126 Cat 300 HP Build # 4998
Former Foretravel tech & RVIA certified tech
Former owner Custom Satellite home/RV satellites 
Former owner Vans LTD  van conversions
Unemployed, panhandler, drag racer NHRA #6348

Re: Removing the Entry Door Post

Reply #6 –
Is there a nut welded behind it so it doesn't fall off when the shaft is removed?
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Removing the Entry Door Post

Reply #7 –
If you remove a bolt on top of the door for the PTL arm, you will gain an inch or two when the door swings further open than at 90 degrees.
Jim

2002 U320
Jim Frerichs
2002 U320 42'

Re: Removing the Entry Door Post

Reply #8 –
Quote from: craneman –
Is there a nut welded behind it so it doesn't fall off when the shaft is removed?
Not welded, but it floats. It won't come out.Don't know the exact science of it.Have had them out before.
Chris and Tammy White  CDA Idaho
Previous owners 1997 U295 36' 3126 Cat 300 HP Build # 4998
Former Foretravel tech & RVIA certified tech
Former owner Custom Satellite home/RV satellites 
Former owner Vans LTD  van conversions
Unemployed, panhandler, drag racer NHRA #6348

Re: Removing the Entry Door Post

Reply #10 –
Quote from: Travelin' Man –
Some type of captive nut.
Yes
Chris and Tammy White  CDA Idaho
Previous owners 1997 U295 36' 3126 Cat 300 HP Build # 4998
Former Foretravel tech & RVIA certified tech
Former owner Custom Satellite home/RV satellites 
Former owner Vans LTD  van conversions
Unemployed, panhandler, drag racer NHRA #6348

Re: Removing the Entry Door Post

Reply #11 –
Yes,  there must be a welded nut, because it certaintly is not a problem on my coach.
Jim

2002 U320
Jim Frerichs
2002 U320 42'

Re: Removing the Entry Door Post

Reply #12 –
You can ( I did ) remove the wooden door safety handle with passenger map light. Three screws, one is behind map light. Just pry off black base the screw is under the base. The other screws are under the decorative wooden plugs.
Then remove leather covered caps on the trim that is behind the wooden door safety handle. Remove those screws also.

This will give you access to the rear of the striker. I tightened the striker this way using an allen wrench.

I would not remove the rivets until I looked behind this panel.

PS  I've lost count of the times I've caught my rear pocket on that damn thing as I an turning to unlock the posilock handle.  :-)
Ed and Michele
2000 U295  36'  (Build #5600)
8.3 ISC 350HP.
2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Toad)
2001 Lance Truck Camper (Sold)
2001 Lazy Daze (Class C). RK Floor Plan (Sold)

Re: Removing the Entry Door Post

Reply #13 –
Since you are trying to take seats out without damaging them, is it possible to take the seats apart to make the pieces smaller?  You might create a greater problem by removing catch for the latch.  Windows can be removed.  I did that to replace the refrigerator.
Jerry Whiteaker former owner 96 U270  36' #4831 Austin,TX-Owner Mods LCD TV w/front cabinet rebuild - LCD TV bedroom - Dual Central AC, either can cool coach w 30 amp - Skylights at roof AC openings - Drop ceiling for ducting of AC - Shower skylight white gelcoat/wood/epoxy frame - Air Springs/Shocks replaced - 2014 CRV - 8K Home Solar - Chevy Volt

Re: Removing the Entry Door Post

Reply #14 –
So far, it looks like my best bet for door post protection is to put a tennis ball over it.
 
The one I am trying to get out at the moment is my Flexsteel copilot seat. It looks like my best idea is to recline the upper part as far as it goes (no power required). I have been trying to put a king-sized quilt (folded in half), over it and use a ratcheting strap around the upper part (with the arm rests parallel to the back). This keeps that part fairly secure and attempts to provide a handhold for the person at that end of the seat.
 
I can get a good grip on the base, from outside, and control, somewhat, the direction and positioning of the seat. My biggest problem is balance. Backing down the stairs is always problematic, but if you have lost your Vestibular function (Gentamicin overdose several years ago), it's extremely difficult.
 
We moved the Villa copilot seat from the minivan, by "walking" it out the back (Thanks to Wayne and crew for getting it in). We put it onto a four-wheel dolly and rolled it to the front  door. Even though I have a 36" door (S&B), We had to turn it on its side to get it inside. After the new flooring is installed, it should be easier to get inside the coach. BTW, the Villa is four inches wider than the Flexsteel, which we already thought was big. If Trip ever needs a new home, he can snuggle with Jean while driving.
 
More later on how we got the sofa out of Ducky, which is still a work in progress.
 
Thanks for all the input,
 
Trent

Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385