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Topic: Fuel Line replacement (Read 7767 times) previous topic - next topic

Fuel Line replacement

Installing new fuel lines in our 1997 U295 with 3126 Cat. I searched, and found lots of info here, but not specific to our coach.
I am putting this here to help others. Foretravel wasn't much help with fuel line length's, or any other info, like what side to pull tank etc.
Here it is in a nutshell:
Found it easiest to pull tank through drivers side. After pumping out 65 gallons fuel, which took about 1/2 hour
Door came off easy as one unit complete. It's not that heavy
Doing the gen set hoses at the same time
Ran a chaser wire with the last line.
Pulled the old hoses out, so I could measure them. I don't know if you could squeeze new ones in, with the old ones still in there. I have had a hard time in the past, just running 2  #8 solar panel wires in the area between the main bay, over the water tank area.
The two 5/16"gen hoses are 18' I added 3' to make it easier
The 1/2" fuel line is 26'. added 2 feet
Return 3/8" line is 30' with 2 extra feet added.
Our coach had a new line from the filter to the Fuel pump already installed. So you will want to do that.
Using Parker hose's (American made) rated at 300 PSI. Handles the new diesel fuel
Completely made up with ends under $200.00 at house of hose in Spokane. Took a 1/2 hour to get them.
This price included 9' of 5/16" fuel line for the vent
It took me about 4 hours to get to this point by myself. It is a real messy job, but not hard. Just a hassle. I will post how long to put it back together later. Some cleaning of parts will be involved.


[fixed typo in topic title - Michelle]

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #1 –
Well, it sure looks like hard work to me!  You must have a different understanding of the term!

In photo #6, what are all those coils laying in the utility channel?  Electric wire?  Air hoses?  Why is there so much excess material?

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #2 –
Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
Well, it sure looks like hard work to me!  You must have a different understanding of the term!

In photo #6, what are all those coils laying in the utility channel?  Electric wire?  Air hoses?  Why is there so much excess material?

HWH wires. They always leave stuff long. They have a few nibbles in them, someone once had a meal with them. Nothing serious!

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #3 –
Nice job, when do you want to do a 40' 295? 😁

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #4 –
Quote from: bbeane –
Nice job, when do you want to do a 40' 295? 😁
UMMMMM.......No thanks.......LOL...........Easier then doing the heater hose's on a old rear engine FT ford. That was the 1st job I was given as a tech.
It's not that bad, but no matter how careful you are,there will be diesel every where. I didn't get in the compartments, I capped both ends which helped a bunch.
BTW, The new diesel is nasty. I have a sealer on my cement that it softened and ate. Only race fuel does that. Not even regular gasoline.
Chris

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #5 –
Thanks, Chris, for the great photos and documentation on this job. It will certainly give some of us inspiration to tackle this job ourselves or at least to know what is involved in the process. Keep up the great work!  ^.^d

John

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #6 –
Everything back together. Took about 4 hours. Included pumping 75 gallons of fuel. Made an adapter, with a small drill pump, sucked fuel to the water separator.
Pumped the hand pump up, and it started right up. Let it run 15 min. took it for a test drive, runs awesome as always. Once home, I shut it down,it did the same thing, crank but no start. let it sit 5-10 minutes, fired right up. Now it fires every time. Seems heat related (not over heating, just does it at operating temp 180). As I mentioned previously in another post, I was having this same issue. After rebuilding the fuel line return check valve, I thought I had it.
Oh well, it needed the fuel lines replaced for peace of mind, that's off the table. I just wish it would just stay not starting, so I can trouble shoot it. Going to replace the fuel shut off valve today. Pictures and story at eleven o'clock news. Stay tuned.
Chris
BTW, all the extended hose lengths were perfect.

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #7 –
Finally, problem resolved:
It was the solenoid at the dash. Went and filled up fuel, ran great, got home, shut it off no start. Checked at relay in bay with key on, had power. Pulled plug to injection solenoid, had power when cranking. Plugged it back in, it started at the rear?????
Went to front, no start at key. Went to solenoid at dash, power drops out when key is turned to start!...Bingo. Have 2 or three of those on hand. How can something so simple, be so stupid.
Here's the good news:
We have new fuel lines
We have a rebuilt return fuel line check valve
I have a spare Injector activation pressure control valve on hand (noted to go bad)
I learned so much about my coach wiring, and engine dynamics
The Cat RV hot line is awesome
This web site is awesome
Brett is awesome
Most of all my wife is really awesome and supportive.
Thanks to all
Chris and Tammy

BTW, here is what the Injector activation pressure control valve does.:
It controls the oil pressure to the fuel pump, which control's the fuel pressure to the injectors. So in reality, it is/isn't a fuel shut off valve.When it cuts the oil pressure to the pump, it stops the fuel pressure to the injectors. Only difference is, it's activated by the ECM which has to see the correct engine temp along with the correct engine oil pressure, before it powers up.
Valve is $244.00 New at Cat
$150.00 rebuilt exchange at cat
Aftermarket as shown, $75.00 delivered


Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #8 –
Chris,

If you are talking about the ignition solenoid, it is pretty easy to diagnose.

With key ON, verify that everything that works with the ignition on works-- two easy ones to see are dash HVAC fan works and Allison shift pad illuminates and shows N.  If not, then either the ignition switch or ignition solenoid (usually within 2' of the ignition switch) us bad.

The ignition solenoid will have two large lugs and one or two small terminals.  If two small ones, one is ground, the other receives 12 VDC positive from the ignition switch when key on.  You can also disconnect the small wire from the ignition switch and use a small gauge jumper wire (only needs to carry 1-2 amps) from the "hot" large lug.  You should hear the solenoid click and then have battery voltage on the other large lug.

Sometimes giving the solenoid a light, sharp wrap will free it up temporarily if the points are a little burned.

The Bluesea electronic switch is a LOT more reliable, but not inexpensive (rated for 1 million cycles).

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #9 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
Chris,

If you are talking about the ignition solenoid, it is pretty easy to diagnose.

With key ON, verify that everything that works with the ignition on works-- two easy ones to see are dash HVAC fan works and Allison shift pad illuminates and shows N.  If not, then either the ignition switch or ignition solenoid (usually within 2' of the ignition switch) us bad.

The ignition solenoid will have two large lugs and one or two small terminals.  If two small ones, one is ground, the other receives 12 VDC positive from the ignition switch when key on.  You can also disconnect the small wire from the ignition switch and use a small gauge jumper wire (only needs to carry 1-2 amps) from the "hot" large lug.  You should hear the solenoid click and then have battery voltage on the other large lug.

Sometimes giving the solenoid a light, sharp wrap will free it up temporarily if the points are a little burned.

The Bluesea electronic switch is a LOT more reliable, but not inexpensive (rated for 1 million cycles).

Brett,the solenoid unlatched only with the key in start position, after running in the ignition "on" position for maybe a 1/2 hr. The coach still turned over fine.Once the solenoid cooled down after the engine was shut down for say 5-10 minutes, it stayed latched in the start mode.
It needs to be noted, although they all look like a Ford start relay, it needs to be a constant duty/cycle solenoid.Not momentary like a start solenoid.
Also, with the 4 wire type, the ground is connected to the rear control panel. When the stop button in the rear is pushed, it lifts the ground to the front ignition solenoid via a relay at the front, which kills every thing connected to the ignition solenoid.
Thanks again.

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #10 –
Wish I'd hae known you were doing the work in or near Spokane. We were visiting DW's cousin and I had time to kill. I could have brought a comfortable lawn chair and watched  ^.^d

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #11 –
Quote from: lgshoup –
Wish I'd hae known you were doing the work in or near Spokane. We were visiting DW's cousin and I had time to kill. I could have brought a comfortable lawn chair and watched  ^.^d
I don't think so, I would have put you to work. I charge to watch.....Hee Hee. Your always welcome

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #12 –
UPDATE
Drove 800+ miles this weekend. Purr's like a Kitty Cat. 8 MPG average towing jeep Wrangler. 50 MPH, dash air on towing jeep up Vantage pass. Went to 205 degree's was still there at the top.
100+ degrees ambient outside.
May only be 300 HP, but got to see 850+ ft pd's of torque in action on the silverleaf.
Ran gen 4 hrs. new main breaker fixed breaker tripping when driving.
Engine compartment clean as a whistle, looks like it wasn't even running.
Love the new hitch, tows perfect, and I can open the engine compartment now, without unhooking anything
Decals will be next. Stay tuned!
Life is good.
Cheers

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #13 –
Nice looking engine Chris.
Jealous of it so maybe while in Mexico I will detail our Cummins, have 3 months time to do it in!
JohnH

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #14 –
Really clean! I don't wash dishes that well. Even looks like it's running.

Pierce

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #15 –
Had issues with Cummins cranking and not starting, had to bleed air to start.  Have 1997 U295 40' with Cummins 325HP 6C8.3 with air entering injection pump thru 20 year old supply fuel lines.  Attached pictures are from barbed connections of supply hose attaching to lift pump and one picture of return line from injector pump showing cracks under clamp on hose.  Others have posted if you have cracks here, they will run the length of the line.  Today I purchased all new lines for Cummins supply and return and the same for the generator for future install.  Anyone already done this........Any input will be appreciated.  I will post pics and details when completed.  Anyone attempting this please read info on blocking frame (SAFETY TIPS) before crawling underneath.  Line type, brand, length, size, whether you removed fuel tank or not, how you threaded line thru underneath are details worth noting.

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #16 –
Quote from: Jack Lewis –
Had issues with Cummins cranking and not starting, had to bleed air to start.  Have 1997 U295 40' with Cummins 325HP 6C8.3 with air entering injection pump thru 20 year old supply fuel lines.  Attached pictures are from barbed connections of supply hose attaching to lift pump and one picture of return line from injector pump showing cracks under clamp on hose.  Others have posted if you have cracks here, they will run the length of the line.  Today I purchased all new lines for Cummins supply and return and the same for the generator for future install.  Anyone already done this........Any input will be appreciated.  I will post pics and details when completed.  Anyone attempting this please read info on blocking frame (SAFETY TIPS) before crawling underneath.  Line type, brand, length, size, whether you removed fuel tank or not, how you threaded line thru underneath are details worth noting.
It's not that bad doing it. (see post above)
More of a hassle then anything. I recommend pulling the old line's completely out, it's tight over the rear. In that area, use a snake line. I capped the ends with fittings, so not to spill diesel anywhere.I can now actually pull the engine fuel lines back a forth freely, when the belly pan is down.
Took two 6-7 hr causal days.Tank 1/2 way out the left (drivers side) for me.I drained it, and flushed it out while it was out. But it was clean already.Only help was my wife helping with door removal. Then a friend helped put it back on. Had to pull top house battery from the tray to remove the vent pipes.
I didn't do it, but I would check the gen/engine pickups,making sure they are right, not reversed. I read later they reversed some on our generation of coaches.Ours is fine, I have ran to almost empty.

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #17 –
Chris, there's a towel underneath you AC compressor?

Re: Fuel Line repalcement

Reply #19 –
 Is the replacement line plastic, steel or  rubber hose? Thanks,MM