Re: Fuel Line repalcement
Reply #26 –
I just finished the replacement of the fuel supply and return lines on my 1997 U295 40' with 6C8.3 Cummins. I did not find it as easy as others posted although finished this by myself, including bleeding air from the fuel system. This took me approx 15 hrs, spread over 4 days. Checked "safety" posts and blocked the chassis between the rails properly. I did this after twice loosing prime and having to add fuel at 1/4 tank reading and bleeding the Cummins to start. I may also have the issue with the gen and eng supply tubes switched in tank. This I will deal with on another day. I noticed cracks in the fuel line over the press on barbs of the fittings. They allowed air in causing hard starting and eventually total loss of prime resulting in no start. If your lines are over 10-15 years old (from hose mfg) and you have not already replaced, you will most likely find these lines hardened and cracks the full length of these lines. These should be replaced with low pressure hydraulic hose rated for current 5-20 ethanol diesel fuel. I used a combination of Gates RLA and Eaton Easy Couple H201 hose. The gates was RLA ( used for supply RLA-10 and return lines RLA-06 for main eng and generator) and the Eaton was H20110 ( the 10 at the end designates 5/8 H201 hose used for the low pressure short hose between fuel filter and lift pump. They both are low pressure nitrate hose. My supply was 5/8 to the Cummins, and was in the center of the fuel tank along with the supply (3/8) to the generator. Both of my return lines for the Cummins and the generator were on drivers side edge of the tank along with the smaller vent hose. I used Gates RLA, 67 feet of 3/8 hose and 37 feet of 5/8. The short piece of Eaton H201 was given to me by the local Eaton supplier when I inquired about fittings for the filter to lift pump (the Eaton could use the old brass slip on fittings and they worked great, with a little help from a heat gun to heat up and insert. The Gates hose is not recommended for slip on fittings. I used the Gates press on fittings at the tank end to start. I then attached this new hose to the old hose at tank and pulled thru. I attached using a short brass pipe coupling threaded at each end. The coupling thread gripped each hose so I did not need to use and other attachment. Doing it over I might have also pulled a string or wire line in case the coupling came loose. I just never pulled to hard, went slow, pushed when it bound up pulling. Be careful not to twist hose, as mfg says a 7% twist can cause early failure. Also............ I've owned the rv for four months. Prev owner owned for two years, and said he never had any issue, when asked after I bought if there was anything wrong, I would like to know and fix before I had an issue. He said no, no issues, the orig owner he bought from in Klamath Falls had maintained it very well and he had only put 5,000 miles on it. Then he said, oh yes, the original owner, Jerry Klingberg, told me to make sure to always fill up at 50% full, but he never told me why. I've put 2,500 miles on in 4 months. Twice I had to bleed fuel injection to start at 1/4 tank, ran to that level to check gauge when refilled. Gage is accurate, rv died both times while parked overnight at 1/4 tank. I had heard on this forum that some 1997's had the two supply tubes switched. Either my supply tubes are switched or it was just coincidence that I lost prime the only two times I let it go to 1/4 tank from the bad fuel hose. I am not sure. After the first time I replaced the fuel solenoid and the lift pump. The second time it lost prime at 1/4 tank, I now replaced all the low pressure fuel hose. I will post when I find out. Also, if anyone knows how to contact the orig owner, Jerry Klingberg, please let me know.
Topic: Fuel Line replacement