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Topic: Intermittent Stop Engine Light (Read 3431 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Intermittent Stop Engine Light

Reply #40 –
Hopefully my comments have not already been addressed here.

The use of bio diesel fuels has cleaned out a lot of old crud and algae deposits according to my cummins dealer service writer today.

My coach had issues with hard starting after sitting when we got it.

Bad fuel lines.  Cracked. 

Cummins printout shows our m11 is ok with b20 fuel. 

An additive helps the resulting rougher idle the bio fuel seems to show on our coach.

Closest place to us in ca with non bio fuel was the maverick fuel station in fillup utah.

550? Miles on i15 from home.

So with a 120 gallons left of non bio adding the b20 will end up at maybe b8 or so.

Will add my additive just before the fill.  And the biocide.

The additive according to a question answer on amazon contains some alcohol.

My experience is that alcohol allows the water to mix with the fuel if present

With the additive the motor is quieter as is the gen and both idle/run smoother.

No idea if that means our injectors are bad?  The service guy was not sure on that

Re: Intermittent Stop Engine Light

Reply #41 –
In today times with bio fuel being the norm and our coaches sitting so much. I think you need a biocide that prevents the growth of the microbial more then one that cleans it up after the growth has started. For years I used Sta-Bil Biocide on the boat in gray and dark Seattle... 

Some thoughts about todays fuel. When I first bought the Foretravel I was using Pacific Pride or CFN for fuel with no issues... that was until I got the bill after fueling away from my home supplier... ouch.....  So I started to fuel at Sam's club, Safeway, and like places... partly because of price and also I just don't like truck stops. Most non truck stops are pumping B20.. (20% Bio/ 80%) diesel.......one thing I noticed was a drop in average fuel mileage,  doing some old school math, given the mileage loss my cheeper fuel is in fact costing me more.  Also before I replaced the Aqua Hot running B20 I noticed the colder it got the less my Aqua hot liked the fuel and would soot up...... With the Oasis heater it burns the B20 but you can sure tell the difference in the burn sound... This spring on my trip north I went back to non bio fuel or no more then 10% and fueling at Pac Pride, CFN or the dreaded truck stops and my fuel mileage is back up and the Oasis is sounding much happier.  Just some thoughts YMMV.... Cheers
Ted

Re: Intermittent Stop Engine Light

Reply #42 –
Update to this (and maybe a few other threads).
1.) Regarding the stolen license plate: Anybody had a towed license plate stolen while out of country?
We made through the border crossing with no difficulty whatsoever. :D Unless there is a compelling reason somewhere along the way, we will wait until we get back to CA before addressing the issue further. Yay!
2.) Regarding the intermittent stop engine light: Intermittent Stop Engine Light
No reoccurrence of the stop engine demon since the last filter change, another kill dose of Bio Kleen (Power Service biocide), and Clear Diesel (Power Service additive that disperses water and other contaminants, including the dead micro organisms that clump together after biocide treatment), and we have done 600 plus miles since the those measures were taken. Find My Product | Power Service
I am pretty convinced that these products have proven effective, along with all the filter changes. I will keep stocks of this on hand! The next step will be to change the fuel/water separator primary filtration (Racor R90P) for the Davco 382. After that, I may consider a lift pump upgrade/modification (still researching). I have one other issue which I will start a new thread for, and that is a check engine light caused by a high intake manifold temperature reading that only seems to happen at or near the beginning of the days travel, clears itself (I see the temperature drop from a high of 180~190º to around 90º or so depending on ambient), so I suspect it may have something to do with the grid heater solenoid sticking on... well all that is for another thread. ::)
Regarding the stop engine light do to a low or no oil pressure reading;
Leaving Las Vegas.... Engine in limp mode, issue with oil pressure sender?
Putting in the sensor from a 24 valve 98' to 02' ISB has fixed that problem completely, except for the fact the oil pressure gauge on the VMSpc screen reads way high, but is consistent. I believe I can address it by changing the multiplier value of the oil pressure gauge in the VMSpc software, just haven't gotten around to it. If you have read the thread linked above, you know that Cummins has superseded the original sensor with one that is basically an on off switch. Okay, as long as the ECM is happy with it, but installing it requires you to make a change on a large multi pin connector and reflash the ECM so that the ECM isn't pining over the loss of a beloved sensor. In my opinion, using the ISB sensor instead of all the hassle installing the new version of the sensor and the required wire harness modification (the big multi pin plug is in a pretty inaccessible location, and I don't think Cummins will reflash the ECM for free...), is a no brainer.
I think that brings me up to date on those threads, but there will be spin off's no doubt :o
Don