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Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

I am planning to replace 21 year old Atwood hot water heater,10 gallon, direct spark ignition, Gas/Electric, w/ heat exchanger unit.  No problem with it now, I just believe it will be easier to do now than later on the road.  I will replace with either the XT Water Heater, Gas/Electric with Heat Exchange | 80-8700 $763 or GAS/ELECT W/HEAT EXCHANGE, DIRECT SPARK | 80-1375 | by PPL $547.90  I have not picked a retailer yet, however I would like users experience and input on the two Atwood units and input on replacement.  XT unit has mixing valve and I am not sure if I can reach behind unit to use and turn off bypass valve.  Any input is appreciated.
97 U295 40, Build #5040, 6C8.3 325 HP
Oregon Continuous Traveler
Samsung Residential #RF20HFENBSR,
Xantrex SW2012, (3)AGM8D Hse, (2)AGM Grp24 Eng, Victron BMV-712, 1800w Solar 4 LG & 2 Sunpower
Extreme Full Body Pt w/hdlmps, new furn/floor, 4 down Lexus 2004 GX470 AWD curb weight 4,740 lbs
Prev: 1990 Barth, 10L 300 2 yrs; 91&92 Monaco Signature, 10 yrs, 10L C 300 &  6C8.3 300; 1997 ForeT 6C8.3 325 since May 2017.  Employed by Guaranty RV 14+ yrs.  Former VW New Car Dlr/Service Dlr, Sales Mgr, Rv Sales, and Service Adviser from 1968-2017
"Don't criticize what you can't understand" Bob Dylan

Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #1
I have a factory rebuilt on demand water heater that will fit directly into where your current ten gallon one is. It is in the original box with all the paper work and shipping materials. I bought it as a replacement and didn't need it. It is a Precision Temp RV 500.
Larry
1996 U295 36'
Build # 4805
Actually we sold it but just like to lurk

Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #2
I had to replace my water heater three years ago.  Upgraded to the heat exchanger addition, as we often park where electric hook up is not available.  It is nice to have the "extra" heat from the big engine being used as we climb out of the mountainous area around our home and to arrive with hot water at the first stop.  You will like it. 

I also did a bit of extra insulating with spray foam to fill in the "open" areas at the back of the unit before installing.  Seems to help keep the water hot longer.  (My impression anyway.) 

andy1
Carolyn and Lewis (Andy1) Anderson
1996 U270 36'

Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #3
I  cannot speak to heat exchanger as we don't have the engine heater loop.  If you do not currently have the loop, I would pass on that option. 

We avoided the XT model with higher temp thermostat & mixer valve to eliminate that complexity.  BTW, with 2 consecutive showers every day, we have never run out of hot water.

Because the electric heating element is located on rear, the 12-volt controlled 120-volt relay is also located on rear side, making future diagnostics & repair difficult, we relocated the relay out in the open above our manifold.  The relocation also allows easy electric element resistance measurements, an important diagnostic. 

We put a plug on 120-power source so we can positively disconnect it when draining tank.

We used (~14") PEX flexible residential hot water tank connectors on hot & cold connections.

And routed hot & cold lines to available manifold side connections, so they can be shut off and the heater bypassed if necessary for winterizing or tank leak.

Well-located 12-volt LEDs on the electric & gas controls will be very helpful to know when hot water heating is completed.


Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #4
Thank you all for the reply comments.  Barry and Cindy, this input is exactly what I was looking for, I will try to implement all.  Mine has the heat exchanger (similar to Winnebago Motor Aide) and so I'll be keeping that with either the oem version Atwood 94019 or after market 94023 of the model # GCH10A-4E.  It appears the price will be around $550 shipped.  I may paint the white door to match my paint job.  I will stay away from the XT model since the first two dealers I contacted recommended that.  The XT model raises the high temp cutoff temp to a higher temp and then mixes the exit water with cold thru a mixing valve which Atwood says makes this 10 gal unit act like it was a 16 gal unit.  I believe sometimes simpler is better.  I may change that conclusion after I contact Atwood to find out what the two high temp settings are.    Anyone else having started or completed this upgrade to the newer replacement, please post your comments or pictures.

I may revise my decision to not use the XT model after reading the following.  I will contact Atwood to see what the two high temp cut off temperatures actually are.  It appears to me what you get for the extra $200 is a higher temp cutoff temperature and an anti scald or blending valve.  Beamalarm.com says regular Atwood is preset at 140 degrees which would be fine with me.  They also say an after market adjustable cutoff is available up to 150 degrees.  Again, I will contact Atwood, and update this post. "Turning a Water Heater Up to Kill Bacteria | Home Guides | SF Gate "
97 U295 40, Build #5040, 6C8.3 325 HP
Oregon Continuous Traveler
Samsung Residential #RF20HFENBSR,
Xantrex SW2012, (3)AGM8D Hse, (2)AGM Grp24 Eng, Victron BMV-712, 1800w Solar 4 LG & 2 Sunpower
Extreme Full Body Pt w/hdlmps, new furn/floor, 4 down Lexus 2004 GX470 AWD curb weight 4,740 lbs
Prev: 1990 Barth, 10L 300 2 yrs; 91&92 Monaco Signature, 10 yrs, 10L C 300 &  6C8.3 300; 1997 ForeT 6C8.3 325 since May 2017.  Employed by Guaranty RV 14+ yrs.  Former VW New Car Dlr/Service Dlr, Sales Mgr, Rv Sales, and Service Adviser from 1968-2017
"Don't criticize what you can't understand" Bob Dylan

Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #5
Where did you find your best pricing? We may be joining the replace the water heater club!
Alan & Gerri Ortiz
1996 U295 36 ft.
"Rocinante"
Hartwell, Georgia
1999 Subaru Forester
Build No. 4957 Motorcader 17399

Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #6
While removing the water heater isn't that difficult (once you have done it ::) ), the learning process can be messy! If the water heater has the 3 way option (Motoraide), there is a valve underneath it. Don't make the mistake of thinking just closing this valve will save you from losing coolant! (How do I know that??? ::) ). You need to have both of those hoses pinched off somehow, or have drained a lot of coolant. Conceivably, you could do it with a minimal lost if you are standing by with the right sized plug of some sort. Even so, you will make a bit of a mess just from what is in the water heater tubing that the hoses connect to. Having a couple of pinch clamps of the sort available at Harbor Freight etc. can make this less of a problem.

The freshwater supply and output lines are connected via 90º pex swivels similar to what you can find else where in the coach plumbing (if it is like our 99' U270). Be prepared to make a bit of a mess here also, though if you drain all the lines and the water heater beforehand, it could save you some grief (I hope!). The electrical element needs to be disconnected at the back (remember to turn the switch off at the foot of the bed on the curbside!), but you can likely do this after you have taken out all the screws in the mounting flange, disconnected the LP line (after turning off the valve at the tank!), and separated the flange from the frame that is held in place by the still soft and sticky butyl tape (or whatever Foretravel used... this stuff will stick to your shoes and anything it comes into contact with and spread like a plague if you don't collect it all and dispose of it... now, how do I know that??? :-[ ).
Finally, after doing the waterline disconnects, the coolant disconnects, and the electrical and LP disconnect (this includes the 12vdc used to control the relay, so turn off the 12 volt switch at the from of the coach first!) Finally, worry it out little by little until you can see the back or at least feel with your hands that there isn't anything hung up on it that will be damaged by the removal. The thin sheet metal flange will get a little bent up, but if you work all the way around the perimeter of the flange a bit of a time, it will survive. If there is water in it, it will weigh enough that it would be good to have a table or crate to set it on as you pull it out.

The new unit has a two pice shell of rigid styrofoam insulation enclosing it, but has many built in gaps an exposed areas. I supplemented the styrofoam with some foil sheet with a fiber fill and expanded polyurethane spray foam and aluminum tape to provide better heat retention. I used some flexible braided hoses from the local big box along with a couple of brass 90º's to connect the water heater to the manibloc rather than the pex swivels that were used OEM. On 99's the white door doesn't show on the outside once the compartment door is closed, rather it has a raised grill that protrudes through a cut out opening in the compartment door. The door on the new unit was basically the same as the old door except for the raised grill, which I moved to the new door. I would think that you could reuse your old door to match your full body paint. One final point, I replaced the single gate valve used to increase dash heat by stopping engine coolant circulation with two ball valves so that I could more easily service the water heater by completely isolating the engine coolant loop from the water heater. These valves are visible in the picture that shows the area underneath the water heater.
Don
The selected media item is not currently available.
Don & Tys
1999 U270 3602 WTFE #5402
Xtreme Stage 1 w/Headlight, Step Conversion, etc.
2009 Honda Fit Sport with Navi
Freedom is NOT "just another word for nothing left to lose"... with apologies to Kris Kristofferson

Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #7
We bought our hot water heater from PPL Motors, which continues to have good prices and good customer service.

------------
Talking about where to NOT buy. . .
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Their name changes from time to time to try to get away from their reviews.

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Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #9
Jack, we reused the original hot water 'door', as our Foretravel has the 'door' built in to our compartment door.  Also did not use any inner hot water tank 'door' that later coaches have.  Barry

Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #10
This is my next project. Mine cycles rapidly on electric and looks original. Easier to replace the whole thing than part by part on an old tank that is probably full of junk
95 U300SE

Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #11
I would think the tankless for sale up in the thread would be a pretty good deal. Why would you not want a tankless water heater?
91 GV U300 Unihome 40' Build 3811
6V92TA Detroit

Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #12
I have rebuilt one of the RV500 tankless that Igsoup is mentioning earlier, due to previous owner not winterizing correctly (turned gas and water off instead of letting built in system doing the protection). They are a good unit and now after the rebuild I expect it to work fine for years. We have it in a park Model not coach. I am bringing back from Mexico a couple of bigger units to rebuild (made in germany) to keep-just in case I need one. Great for garage or workshop if only cold water there. Run it off a LP tank bottle.
JohnH
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #13
Decided definitely not to opt for XT model due to comments from Atwood dealers and then finding this review by a service tech.  Also the standard 10 gal Atwood has always supplied all the hot water we have needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by idroba  View Post
Realize that all they have done is to make it possible for both the propane and the electric system to operate at the same time. Also, the electric element is quite large, 1400 watts, which will take about half of your 30 amp input service to operate. With the AC unit on, you would just about use every bit of the power you may have available.

Nothing wrong with what they have done, but they really don't tell you how they did it, or what the limitations are (electric use) and even the fact that to get the specs they give you, you must have electricity.
Sorry, but the Atwood XT does NOT work in the manner that you imply; electric only.

It IS a 120VAC/LP combination water heater, but these separate heating sources can be used individually OR together ....your choice. Using both simultaneously will improve the recovery rate of the device, allowing the water to heat quicker, but it is NOT mandatory.

The operation of the XT provides 16 gallons of hot water from a 10 gallon tank. This is NOT done with with larger electric elements (1400 watts is standard for RV electric water heaters) or more BTUs for the LP burner, It is done with hotter thermostats (specifically 165*F for the XT rather than the standard 130*F for a conventional RV water heater).

By heating the water in the 10 gallon tank to such a high degree, Atwood then employs a mixing valve at the tank output to add cold water to the 'overheated' water, bringing the mixed water nearer to the optimal 120*F seen at the faucet. This is how they increase the capacity of the 10 gallon tank.

I would NOT recommend this unit for the following reason: I get almost a call a week from customers saying that they are no longer getting hot water from the unit. The cause is the mixing valve, which clogs with sediment/minerals from the incoming water, blocking the hot water from the tank from entering the mixing valve, and ultimately your faucet. Once clogged, they are NOT repairable/cleanable.

The manual states that this valve should be cleaned with vinegar at least annually, but the positioning of the mixing valve (rear of the unit) and the difficulty of removal really precludes any sort of maintenance as recommended by Atwood. Also, replacement mixing valve cost around $250!

Not my choice for a water heater.
__________________
Lew Farber...ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician...RVIA Certified Master Tech ...AM Solar Authorized Installation Center...AIRSTREAM Solar & Electrical Specialist...Micro Air 'Easy Start' Sales and Installations

Since I have the Winnebaggo type Motoraid or heat exchanger model now, I'll order this, in the next few weeks.  GAS/ELECT W/HEAT EXCHANGE, DIRECT SPARK | 80-1375 | by PPL
97 U295 40, Build #5040, 6C8.3 325 HP
Oregon Continuous Traveler
Samsung Residential #RF20HFENBSR,
Xantrex SW2012, (3)AGM8D Hse, (2)AGM Grp24 Eng, Victron BMV-712, 1800w Solar 4 LG & 2 Sunpower
Extreme Full Body Pt w/hdlmps, new furn/floor, 4 down Lexus 2004 GX470 AWD curb weight 4,740 lbs
Prev: 1990 Barth, 10L 300 2 yrs; 91&92 Monaco Signature, 10 yrs, 10L C 300 &  6C8.3 300; 1997 ForeT 6C8.3 325 since May 2017.  Employed by Guaranty RV 14+ yrs.  Former VW New Car Dlr/Service Dlr, Sales Mgr, Rv Sales, and Service Adviser from 1968-2017
"Don't criticize what you can't understand" Bob Dylan

Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #14
Morning Jack,
Consider installing a water heater bypass kit on the new water heater. Tough to install later without removing the heater.
John Duld
1995 U320C SE 40'

Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #15

I put in the XT model in our park trailer, but have the regular 3 way in our coach. The difficulty of servicing the valve assembly would definitely make it a nonstarter for the coach. In the trailer, I can access the back of the unit from inside bathroom. I hadn't read the info about vulnerability of the mixing valve to mineral deposits and the $250 figure for replacement alarmed me! I did a quick search, and it appears it is available from Amazon for $117. Not cheap by any means, but a lot better than $250!
Amazon.com: Atwood (90029) Mixing Valve for XT Water Heater: Automotive
Don

Decided definitely not to opt for XT model due to comments from Atwood dealers and then finding this review by a service tech.  Also the standard 10 gal Atwood has always supplied all the hot water we have needed.
...The manual states that this valve should be cleaned with vinegar at least annually, but the positioning of the mixing valve (rear of the unit) and the difficulty of removal really precludes any sort of maintenance as recommended by Atwood. Also, replacement mixing valve cost around $250!

Not my choice for a water heater.
__________________
Lew Farber...ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician...RVIA Certified Master Tech ...AM Solar Authorized Installation Center...AIRSTREAM Solar & Electrical Specialist...Micro Air 'Easy Start' Sales and Installations

Since I have the Winnebaggo type Motoraid or heat exchanger model now, I'll order this, in the next few weeks.  GAS/ELECT W/HEAT EXCHANGE, DIRECT SPARK | 80-1375 | by PPL
As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.
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Don & Tys
1999 U270 3602 WTFE #5402
Xtreme Stage 1 w/Headlight, Step Conversion, etc.
2009 Honda Fit Sport with Navi
Freedom is NOT "just another word for nothing left to lose"... with apologies to Kris Kristofferson

Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #16
An issue not mentioned much is that when starting with a cold/cool hot water tank, the heating increases plumbing pressures.

We all care about over-pressurizing when using city water pressure reducers.  But the same high pressures are created when heating hot water.  Heating XT models to a higher temperature increases this pressure problem even more.

We found the best way to reduce the pressure on the plumbing is to keep the hot water propane or electric always on while we are living in our coach, so we are not heating from cool to hot.  And while in the coach, we are often running water for sink or toilet, where every use releases pressure built up.

Of course, keeping tank heated is not always desired or practical, so caution should be observed by periodically opening a faucet for a moment to relieve pressure until set-point is reached.

Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #17
Speaking of heating the hot water tank. . .  Since the heating elements turn on and off automatically, when we are ready to jump into the shower, we like to be assured that we have a 'full' tank of hot water.

And on occasion when heating was turned off for some reason, like when we are on low amp shore power and want to run microwave, we may find at shower time, we forgot to turn heating back on.

The only way to know our 10-gallons is full of hot water is to see the switches on and know when the system board is not calling for heat.  We ran two fused wires from tank to kitchen switch plate and mounted two additional LED lights on the switch plate.  Propane light is on when gas valve is powered.  Electric light is on when heating element relay-coil is powered with 12-volts.

Did have to make a modification to electric light to not light when relay is powered but 120-volts is not present.

The little green 'dots' on both sides of center red gas-fault light are our additional LED's. 

Our coach came with gas only hot water heater, so we did not have 120-volts factory wired to tank.  We decided to mount the new panel in the kitchen.  We could not use original gas switch because it turns off 12-volt power to tank circuit board. 

The new combined electric / gas uses a different board which needs 12-volts all the time.  The 'older' style Atwood with electric may have used a separate thermostat to control electric heater, and the kitchen switch may turn off all 12-volts.  So even though there was previously a gas/electric Atwood tank, new wires will have to be run to kitchen to control the new circuit board.

And it is nice to have all hot water tank control in one place.


Re: Atwood 10 gallon DSI Gas/Electric w/ heat exchanger replace

Reply #18
I bought a water heater from PPL for a 1996 Roadtrek. Good price and well packaged. It came quickly.
1998 36 foot U270 Build No. 5328 WTFE, 900 watts solar, Victron controller, B2B, bat monitor, 600 AMPH lithium with 2018 Chevy Colorado toad, SKP #110239, Motorcade #17781, 2021 Escape 17B for when Coach is broken down and campsites are too small, retired and full-timer since Dec. 2020. Part of RV family since 1963.