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Topic: Battery Cables (Read 1298 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #25
 I would use a cut off wheel  or sawzall  before I hammer on the battery.  You will knock the post loose before you break the nut IMHO.
The only battery explosion I have had was tapping on the clamp/post, shorted the battery and exploded all over the hood . Not even hit that hard. 
 Hose down the  area, cover the exposed parts of the battery and wiz the nut off.  saw zall also. 
 Edit;; add a box fan blowing on the project to reduce bad fumes.
 I assume that you tried squeezing/distorting the nut with  vise grips along with penetrating oils. . 

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #26
I assume that you tried squeezing/distorting the nut with  vise grips along with penetrating oils. . 

I will give it a try next week as the coach is stored 40 miles from the house.
Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #27
Depends on how hard you hit the punch. We used to refer to our five hammers--ranging from small ball peen hammer up to a two handed sledge as our percussion persuader set.
Try finesse first with the small ball peen hammer and a quantity of hits on the hex flat towards the direction you want the nut to turn.
Nitehawk,  Demolition Lady, & our NEW master, Zippy the speeding BB cat.
1989 Grand Villa 36' ORED
Oshkosh chassis, 8.2 DD V8
2006 Saturn Vue AWD

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #28
IF as posted there are no hydrogen vapors in the area from flooded cell batteries primarily I would personally use my tiny hand held butane torch to heat the bolt and nut assembly.  Degrades the loktite if used.  Flank drive wrenches that work on the flats of the nut allow more force to be applied to the fastener,  should come off with heat.

Ventilate area first if unsure.

Sealed batteries with out being charged should not have any gas present
"Riding and rejoicing"
Bob
1997 U320 40' Mid entry, build 5132,  wtbi ce27, 4th owner
2007 Solara convertible
2 prodeco tech outlaw ss electric bikes

1095 watts solar
08 Ls 460 and a sc430
2000 Ford F-250 superduty 4x4

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #29
IF as posted there are no hydrogen vapors in the area from flooded cell batteries primarily I would personally use my tiny hand held butane torch to heat the bolt and nut assembly.  Degrades the loktite if used.  Flank drive wrenches that work on the flats of the nut allow more force to be applied to the fastener,  should come off with heat.

Ventilate area first if unsure.

Sealed batteries with out being charged should not have any gas present

Both sets of Batteries are AGM type of Batteries so I guess I could unhook the shore power for a couple of day before I work on it.  The start batteries are not being charged as the reason for replacing the solenoid.  I think my wife has to of the small butane torches that she uses for her silver smithing, maybe one can disappear for a couple of hours??
Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #30
Steve,

Another option would be to leave the batteries connected and be very careful when removing the cables at the solenoid.  The secret is to have "insulators" ready.

I have done this by having scraps of bicycle inner tubes or scrap hose that will fit over the metal ends of the cables.  Remove the cables one at a time and use you "insulator" to render them safe until the new solenoid is in place.

If done carefully, a lot better than taking a chance on destroying a battery.

Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #31
Can you get a 6point wrench and a six point socket on the bolt and keep turning til the bolt breaks?What about a small 4 inch pipe
wrench,any chance of a picture?
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #32
Steve,
Another option would be to leave the batteries connected and be very careful when removing the cables at the solenoid.  The secret is to have "insulators" ready.
I have done this by having scraps of bicycle inner tubes or scrap hose that will fit over the metal ends of the cables.  Remove the cables one at a time and use you "insulator" to render them safe until the new solenoid is in place.
If done carefully, a lot better than taking a chance on destroying a battery.

Hmmm Thanks Brett, I do have some old motorcycle tubes that I can cut up.  I have done this with house wiring where I just take a wire loose and put a twist nut on it.  guess cut them about 10" long and zip time one end on all 4 of them then take the nuts off and slide them on and zip tie them in place.  ^.^d
Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #33
Can you get a 6point wrench and a six point socket on the bolt and keep turning til the bolt breaks?What about a small 4 inch pipe
wrench,any chance of a picture?
Thanks John, I always use 6 point as long as I have the range of motion where I can get them on a fastener and there is not enough room to get a 6 inch pipe wrench jaws around the square end.

I dont have any closeup pictures of them.  I am able to put enough pressure in them that I can feel the post start to move and the nut start to smear so that is when I stopped to ask questions.
Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #34
The suggestion on reply #7 to use a cable puller is the way to go. The posts are tapered and after getting the cable off the battery you can do any of the other options.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GearWrench-Battery-Terminal-Puller-202D/205595393?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD25T%7C25-1_HAND+TOOLS%7CNA%7CPLA%7c71700000034127224%7c58700003933021546%7c92700031755124844&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9Y7hyJvU3AIVCspkCh1Uqg5zEAQYAiABEgLeRfD_BwE&dclid=CIT1s82b1NwCFUhQwQods9EBsg
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
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