Battery Cables

Topic: Battery Cables (Read 1298 times) previous topic - next topic

Battery Cables

August 03, 2018, 05:01:22 pm

I was going to unhook my negative battery cables so I could install my boost solenoid but the nuts wont budge. They appear to be steel bolts with brass nuts, there is no corrosion on them but but it is like someone used red loctite on them.

So my first option is to use Blaster penetrating fluid applied with a needle as it is petroleum based and keep it wiped off the battery cases.

The second option would be to use a cutoff wheel on a Dremel or a Die Grinder to cut the bolts, but I am not sure about sparks that close to the battery.

Does anyone have a better idea?

Thanks

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #1 – August 03, 2018, 05:10:32 pm

From the manufacturer website. Here you go:

How to Remove Red Threadlocker - Henkel Adhesive Technologies Blog

Keith

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #2 – August 03, 2018, 05:31:05 pm

Thanks Keith, I have used this method when removing rocker arm studs in a 302 motor I had.

Here I am not sure about the Hydrogen gas from the batteries, I dont want them to blowup in my face when I am stuck through a small opening, it might trim my beard a little.

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #3 – August 03, 2018, 05:36:59 pm

My solution would be a nut splitter. In my tool box is a Craftsman splitter that I inherited from my father - still does the job. Easy!

Note: Link below is to the current model. My decades old splitter has a "floating head" design that I believe is superior.

Sears.com

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #4 – August 03, 2018, 05:47:35 pm

Thanks Chuck, I just dug mine out and I am not sure if it has room to slide over the nut, the distance between the nut and battery case is pretty close but I will take it out with me and see if I can give it a twist

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #5 – August 03, 2018, 05:56:49 pm

Hope it works!

If you are not already using them, I highly recommend military style battery connectors. While you are messing with your electrical system would be a good time to install fresh connectors.

Amazon.com: Pico 0810PT Military Style Top Post Battery Terminal 1 Set...

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #6 – August 03, 2018, 06:02:01 pm

Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie – August 03, 2018, 05:56:49 pm

Hope it works!

If you are not already using them, I highly recommend military style battery connectors. While you are messing with your electrical system would be a good time to install fresh connectors.

Amazon.com: Pico 0810PT Military Style Top Post Battery Terminal 1 Set...

It has one similar but the post is vertical instead of horizontal

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #7 – August 03, 2018, 06:21:53 pm

Just use a battery terminal puller. Cheap at any auto store. It pulls up on the terminal while pushing down on the post. Military connectors are the best. The red you see is probably just a red corrosion spray someone applied. I use stainless fasteners on the terminals.

Pierce

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #8 – August 03, 2018, 06:33:14 pm

Squeeze the nut. with visegrips

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #9 – August 03, 2018, 06:35:08 pm

Stainless fasteners work well but put an anti-sieze lube on the threads before cinching them up. If the nuts lock up on the bolts about the only way to get them off is to cut them and stainless is very tough to cut. I would not use any sort of lock tight on battery connections. Copper and lead are pretty soft and will compress a bit over time. You need to be able to tighten them up from time to time.

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #10 – August 03, 2018, 09:30:08 pm

Steve,
Use a terminal post puller as suggested by Pierce. Cover the batteries with a cloth and blow a fan in there if you still need to be near them to loosen nuts that will ensure that even if there is any hydrogen around it will be evacuated. You wont blow yourself up then.

Keith

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #11 – August 03, 2018, 09:34:25 pm

Quote from: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart – August 03, 2018, 06:21:53 pm

Just use a battery terminal puller. Cheap at any auto store. It pulls up on the terminal while pushing down on the post. Military connectors are the best. The red you see is probably just a red corrosion spray someone applied. I use stainless fasteners on the terminals.

Pierce

Thanks Pierce, I may have to but I will still have to get the bolts out of the clamps

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #12 – August 03, 2018, 09:35:09 pm

Quote from: Protech Racing – August 03, 2018, 06:33:14 pm

Squeeze the nut. with visegrips

Will squeezing it help break it loose maybe?

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #13 – August 03, 2018, 09:37:08 pm

Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 – August 03, 2018, 06:35:08 pm

Stainless fasteners work well but put an anti-sieze lube on the threads before cinching them up. If the nuts lock up on the bolts about the only way to get them off is to cut them and stainless is very tough to cut. I would not use any sort of lock tight on battery connections. Copper and lead are pretty soft and will compress a bit over time. You need to be able to tighten them up from time to time.

Thanks Roger, I always try to use SS hardware and the other day I picked up so anti-sieze with silver. The bolt store where I am getting my hardware said it was best and all they carry

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #14 – August 03, 2018, 09:40:24 pm

Quote from: Keith and Joyce – August 03, 2018, 09:30:08 pm

Steve,
Use a terminal post puller as suggested by Pierce. Cover the batteries with a cloth and blow a fan in there if you still need to be near them to loosen nuts that will ensure that even if there is any hydrogen around it will be evacuated. You wont blow yourself up then.

Keith

Thanks Keith I already have my fan setting with my other stuff when I go out and I do have some old blankets I use for odd things like this

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #15 – August 03, 2018, 09:53:27 pm

Wear eye protection if you have any sparks at all in that area.

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #16 – August 03, 2018, 09:54:27 pm

Quote from: AC7880 – August 03, 2018, 09:53:27 pm

Wear eye protection if you have any sparks at all in that area.

Oh I do, after 8 eye surgeries I always wear eye protection

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #17 – August 03, 2018, 10:21:43 pm

Roger,

I have seen galling several times but never encountered it myself. I have always used as much stainless as possible in any kind of project I have. Aside from the battery stainless fasteners, I drilled and tapped where the pop rivets were in the entry step and installed button head stainless cap screws. Pretty straight forward with the only lubrication being the oil on the cutting tap. I use all new stainless nuts when I replace an airbag on the U300. My replacement bulkhead fasteners are 316 stainless.

I have installed stainless non-structural screw kits on many aircraft. Each kit has hundreds of screws. Installation consists of using a battery powered 12V drill to take the steel screws out and then to install the stainless hardware. This is always without exception, done dry. In an annual inspection, all the inspection plates have to come off quickly and easily. Just never have had one gall.

So, my experience has just been the opposite. The stainless is never eaten away by electrolysis, never rusts, stays nice and clean so it can be easily removed for any maintenance.

Pierce

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #18 – August 03, 2018, 10:35:07 pm

It is very easy to get bolts and nuts to experience galling and become locked together. Especially if you are using a battery powered or air impact driver. Maybe using hand tools and slow speeds will reduce it. I moved a solar panel this summer, 2 of 16 bolts got cut off. All of the bolts and nuts left were removed and coated with an anti-seize coating.

I worked on ships in the 80's, we had to cut 3/4" and 1" SS bolts and nuts apart. No way to get them apart. All the replacements were coated with anti-seize. If you have never experienced this then you are lucky. Just wait. It will be just like the nut is welded on. If the bolt is small enough and you have a big enough impact wrench you may be able to twist and break the bolt. By 5/16" you are more likely to just turn the nut or bolt head round.

So don't use an anti-seize and take your chances or use an anti-seize coating (a small container will last the rest of your life) and never have a problem.

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #19 – August 03, 2018, 10:36:09 pm

If all else fails, use a long hacksaw blade in a reciprocating saw on the nut. Cut it just enough so you can split the nut.

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #20 – August 03, 2018, 10:55:44 pm

When working around batteries I always cover them with a heavy cloth soaked with water... Freshly charged batteries, or even bumping batteries can cause bubble of hydrogen gas to be released. Believe me when I say it is highly explosive and battery cases most often cannot take the stress, if you are lucky the bottom blows out and you are not hit in the face with acid.... Batteries are extremely dangerous..... Use extreme caution....

Dave

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #21 – August 03, 2018, 11:02:53 pm

Quote from: nitehawk – August 03, 2018, 10:36:09 pm

If all else fails, use a long hacksaw blade in a reciprocating saw on the nut. Cut it just enough so you can split the nut.

I am not sure a saw blade can be used at the terminal is so big you cant get a good like to cut without cutting the lead part.

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #22 – August 03, 2018, 11:15:02 pm

Thanks Dave, that is why I am not sure of using cutoff wheels.

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #23 – August 04, 2018, 08:26:06 am

OK, if the nut or bolt head is accessible enough that you could center punch the nut halfway between the thread and the hex flat then could you possibly use progressively larger drills--starting with 1/16" diameter? Once you get close to the threads or the flat then try using a tapered center punch to distort the hole. This should loosen the nut on the bolt.
If the bolt head is the end available then center punch and drill progressively larger until you can knock the head off or it spins on the drill.
A third alternative I have used is to keep center punching on one flat until the nut comes loose. This center punching distorts the nut and uses less force than trying to "horse" the nut loose to the point that the post is torn loose.

Re: Battery Cables

Reply #24 – August 04, 2018, 12:24:28 pm

Quote from: nitehawk – August 04, 2018, 08:26:06 am

OK, if the nut or bolt head is accessible enough that you could center punch the nut halfway between the thread and the hex flat then could you possibly use progressively larger drills--starting with 1/16" diameter? Once you get close to the threads or the flat then try using a tapered center punch to distort the hole. This should loosen the nut on the bolt.
If the bolt head is the end available then center punch and drill progressively larger until you can knock the head off or it spins on the drill.
A third alternative I have used is to keep center punching on one flat until the nut comes loose. This center punching distorts the nut and uses less force than trying to "horse" the nut loose to the point that the post is torn loose.

Thanks, will the post handle that without breaking inside?

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