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Topic: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer (Read 3204 times) previous topic - next topic

Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

OK, my next project is changing out my Pure Air Plus.

My main question is it best to take it out first and go to like NAPA and have them get me a refurb, or just order it and then take the core back to them?

If I take it out first I guess I should zip tie baggies of the hoses?

Thanks
Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #1
When we replaced the drier in our 36, we purchased the remanufactured drier from NAPA on a Saturday.  (Many times they offer discounts for different products at different times of the week.)  When the part came in we picked it up and payed a Core Charge.  That charge was returned to us when we brought the old one back to NAPA. 

Have you recruited a friend to help?  it's a big heavy unit and it is sometimes difficult to get to.  Two makes it a lot easier than doing it alone.  Just sayin.

Good luck. 
Scott & Carol Seibert
2001 42' double slide U320 - Sold
Previous - 2002 36' U320

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #2
Thanks Scott, that is not to bad then, lets one get all the needed items off the old one that are needed  ^.^d
Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #3
Order it first and take the core back,when we did ours I ordered the 2 kits but wanted to do it once just to see how it went together,
the rebuild does seem like a better option.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #4
Thanks John
Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #5
...lets one get all the needed items off the old one...
That is a very important point!  Sometimes the rebuilt units do not include all the necessary fittings.  Also, having both units sitting side by side on your bench insures that you get the fittings aimed in the correct direction.  There is little, if any, slack in the hoses so it's critical that the fittings all point the right direction.

Your dryer may have a external "Isolation Valve" attached to it.  If so, the rebuilt unit will not include this valve.  It is good practice to replace this valve when the dryer is replaced.  You can order the part online from several sources - shop around for best price.  See below:

Haldex Isolation Valve

KN23500 by HALDEX - VALVE CHECK
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #6
Thanks Chuck, this is my isolation valve right?

Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #7
NAPA gives you 30 days to get the core back to them for a refund.
Rick and Wendy Green
1998 U270 3600 The Coach Formerly known as Princess
Build# 5336
2007 Ford Explorer

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #8
That is the isolation valve. One other point to consider... the fittings can be very difficult to break loose, so you may be well served to break them loose while the dryer is still mounted on the coach. The JIC fittings on the air lines will readily come apart, but the fittings that is actually screwed into the dryer are pipe thread and will likely be very hard to take out while the dryer is loose on the bench in front of you.
Don
Thanks Chuck, this is my isolation valve right?


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Don & Tys
1999 U270 3602 WTFE #5402
Xtreme Stage 1 w/Headlight, Step Conversion, etc.
2009 Honda Fit Sport with Navi
Freedom is NOT "just another word for nothing left to lose"... with apologies to Kris Kristofferson

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #9
Thanks Don, I will take my big crescent wrench and  a bit of pipe  ^.^d
Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #10
I went to NAPA and talked to then and he said they list 6 different ones and they have different fitting sizes  :o

guess I will clean the old one up and use a paint pen to mark the directons of the fittings and NAPA said he would pull the fittings to measure the sizes.
Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #11
The air dryer reman Haldex # DA33100X
The selected media item is not currently available.Bill&Doris 97 U270 36'
University of Parris Island Class of 66
Semper Fi  Build# 5174 MC#17094

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #12
Loosen the fittings before removal as they can be really tight and the bracket holds it well. 

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #13
Bill Willett just gave you the number that you need to order. It is the correct one. Get it bring it home and than change the fittings from the old to the new and then take the core back. It is much easier that way.
previous 1984 35 ft ORED 250 HP 3208 Cat       
previous 1998 40 ft U295 CAI 325 hp Cummins
previous 2003 40 Ft u320 build #6140 450 Cummins M11.                                                         
1999 Mazda Miata
Ron, Nancy, Tipper the cat, Max The dog
1997 U 270 36 ft build number 5174 8.3 Cummins

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #14
Bill Willett just gave you the number that you need to order. It is the correct one. Get it bring it home and than change the fittings from the old to the new and then take the core back. It is much easier that way.
I ordered it the afternoon and it should be here tues, I called Haldex and they gave me the number for the idolater for it and I ordered that too.  so next Wed I will go put that in.  ^.^d
Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #15
I just might get it done so old phart phred can come see it in 3-1/2 weeks "LOL"
Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #16
Well I got my dryer and I am getting ready to install it and a couple of questions have come up.

How can I be sure all the air has been bleed out?  I have put my stands in and opened the petcock on the rear tank and dumped the air from the suspension but the gauges still show 85 psi.

then for this part with the wire do I remove the one from the old dryer and use it or do I cut the wires and solder this one in?

Thanks




Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #17
Cut and solder, or butt splice..... I did mine by myself back in January, not to bad. Like  everyone else said break the fittings before you loosen it from the frame. If I remember right it's an inch and an eighth wrench that you need for the big connections. I had to use the fittings off my old one, they weren't too hard to break they were tight but they did come loose just noticed the position that they're in before you break them loose that's how they need to be when they go back so the hoses will hook up properly.  If you bleed the air down by opening the wet tank there shouldn't be pressure on that side and there may be a little bit but not much between the compressor in the dryer on the other side. I don't remember any surprises when I did mine. Did you pump the brakes to see if the air pressure went down from 85. If I'm not mistaken the air pressure is read from the two air tanks at the front of the coach after the wet tank and I believe there is a check valve between the wet tank and those two front air tanks. I'm sure there someone that can correct me if I'm wrong. If you were closer I would offer my help. Good luck.
The selected media item is not currently available.Keith & Jo
2003 U320T 4025 PBBS Designer series
Build 6203    Cummins 500hp
2000 U320 4010 WTFE / Build 5762 —Sold—
Motorcade #18070   
Pasadena, Texas
2015 Jeep Wrangler Sahara-Sunset Orange pearl coat
Don't argue with a fool, people watching might not be able to tell the difference.

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #18
Cut and solder, or butt splice and heat shrink.
Bruce, Linda, and Macy
Zoey RIP 1/20/19
1999 U295 40' build #5400
2017 silver Jeep Wrangler, 1260 watts of solar on top
Moving around the country

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #19
Crack/ Loosen the hoses  a half turn  slowly,let out the pressure .
Wear safety glasses.  maybe that shoud be the first line??
  Yes solder/shrink/grease,  or use the old wire if it looks good. 

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #20
..................How can I be sure all the air has been bleed out?  I have put my stands in and opened the petcock on the rear tank and dumped the air from the suspension but the gauges still show 85 psi.................then for this part with the wire do I remove the one from the old dryer and use it or do I cut the wires and solder this one in?...........
The Front and Rear Brake Tanks still showing 85 psig is good.  That shows that your Front and Rear Brake Tank check valves are seating and preventing air pressure from returning to the wet tank.  But the Front and Rear tanks need to be vented (drained) periodically also.  It is not mandatory, but this is a good time to drain them and discover if there is any moisture or powder that has found its way into the brake tanks.

If I were doing it, the existing on-board plug (for the heater) should be identical and, if in good repair, I would reuse it without concern.  I would put a dab of dielectric grease on the male part of the connections.  Then I would save the new plug as a spare part.  If the plug is not identical, then I would need to figure out the wiring and splice in the new.

HTH,
Neal
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Neal (& Brenda) Pillsbury
'02 U320 SPEC, 4200, DGFE, Build #5984
'04 Gold Wing
'07 Featherlite 24'
'14 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit
MC #14494
Exeter, NH & LaBelle FL
Quality makes the Heart Soar long after Price is Forgotten

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #21
Thanks guys, I will cut and solder with heat shrink.

I am a bit leery of bleeding the front tanks yet until I see how the stands I cut fit, the front will probably be down in the morning.  I was having a hard time getting the stands on the rear as the rear was losing air pretty fast.  I would get one in place and have to go back in and raise it and then run back and stick the next one in.

Is the rear tank just to catch water and then the air moves to the front tanks or do the rear brakes get their air from the rear tank?
Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #22
Is the rear tank just to catch water and then the air moves to the front tanks or do the rear brakes get their air from the rear tank?
The rear tank, which is properly called "The Wet Tank" to avoid confusion, is supposed to catch/retain any moisture that gets past the dryer.

The rear brakes get their air from "The Rear Tank", which is one of the 2 tanks at the front of the coach.

The front brakes get their air from "The Front Tank", which is the other tank at the front of the coach.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #23
I was having a hard time getting the stands on the rear as the rear was losing air pretty fast.  I would get one in place and have to go back in and raise it and then run back and stick the next one in.
How tall are your safety stands?  They should be 12" tall for easy insertion, with about 1/2" of clearance to spare.

When you are trying to insert your safety stands, is the engine running?  If so, when you release the "RAISE" button, the coach will immediately try to return to ride height.

Using the "RAISE" button, you should be able to raise your coach all the way up to the top of the mechanical stops with the engine running.  Then, before you release the "RAISE" button, shut off the engine.  That way, the coach should remain in the fully raised position while you take your time carefully inserting the safety stands.

If the coach will not remain fully raised using the above procedure, then you have some bad leaks either in the air bags or in the air lines going to them.  Our coach has a number of small leaks somewhere (?) in the air system, but it will stay in the fully raised position for weeks before it finally starts to settle down onto the safety stands.

If operating correctly, your air bags should retain whatever pressure is in them, even if you completely drain all the pressure out of all 3 air tanks.  There are check valves in the 6-pack manifold blocks that should prevent air from flowing backwards out of the air bags.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Pure Air Plus Air Dryer

Reply #24
The rear tank, which is properly called "The Wet Tank" to avoid confusion, is supposed to catch/retain any moisture that gets past the dryer.

The rear brakes get their air from "The Rear Tank", which is one of the 2 tanks at the front of the coach.

The front brakes get their air from "The Front Tank", which is the other tank at the front of the coach.
Thanks Chuck, I understand now, so the gauges on the dash are reading the two front tanks then
Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5