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Topic: RV garage (Read 4522 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: RV garage

Reply #20 –
Hey, Craneman, I've been to Sven's house. He'd never get away with your setup.....or what you have in your yard!!!

Re: RV garage

Reply #21 –
Chuck asked, "Your coach barn is a marvel of efficient engineering.  Did you consider those "restrictions" when you bought the coach, or did you just luck out?"

We never thought about which coach vs possible barn size.  If I did it today I probably could have gotten a variance and done 16 x 50.  We were looking for indoor storage.  Getting access when we wanted was hard.  Getting the coach out when we wanted was worse. So we started looking at building our own.  We had room.  We did the best we could with the available size at the time.  Just like most projects, consider every need, find solutions.


Sven, length is from the source panel following how the wire is routed to the sub panel.  Mine was maybe 40 ft in a straight line but at least 80 as wired.  Do a 30 amp, 220v circuit.  Don't skimp on wiring,  pretty soon you're going to want to plug in a compressor.  And put in way more lighting and outlets than you think you might need.  Easiest to do all of this up front.

Re: RV garage

Reply #22 –
Quote from: GleamB –
Hey, Craneman, I've been to Sven's house. He'd never get away with your setup.....or what you have in your yard!!!

I'm in the same boat.
My neighbors HATE seeing the Foretravel on my property. I'm sure they checked out all possible means to have me remove it but nothing in the books to make me. I live on a corner, that makes it worse.
If I erected a tent setup like that pictured they would come at me with torches, a noose, and tar and feathers.

Re: RV garage

Reply #23 –
Sven, what Roger said, distance to source power is of vital importance for any intelligent recomdation. Is your 30 amp in the garage a 240 volt receptical? My guess is it's just 120 volt if that's what you plug the coach into. It would be nice to pull the coach out of the garage and run one roof a/c unit for guest or maintenance, so you have to add that wiring distance, can't run roof a/c unit very long inside garage before it craps out. Going have to zero in on your expectations to make a recommendation.

Re: RV garage

Reply #24 –
Sven how far is it from the breaker box to the 30 amp plug you are using?  then add that to the distance you intend to run, by code it may be OK but realistically you may be on the edge.  Personally, if I could get away with it I would run a #8 the whole distance to be safe.  Breakers are for wire protection, but running small wire can also cause your AC to let the magic smoke out if wire overheated and breaker didn't trip.
Chris

Re: RV garage

Reply #25 –
I like the reasons for recommending the thicker wire, but it will make the wiring a little more complicated, since the plug in I have is 120v that used to go to the electric dryer (I took it out, since we use gas).  I have been using a 25' 30A extension cord to the rig and it has worked well with the AC on.  When we have guests staying in the coach, we will have it parked between the house and RV garage.  The only requirement I have for additional outlets are for keeping my motorcycles charged.  For that matter, I could have them plugged into a outlet on the RV when it is parked.  If I were to replace the wiring all the way to the breaker box, I would look into a 50A set  up if I have available amperage at the box.

Re: RV garage

Reply #26 –
With regard to restrictions and keeping the angry torch carrying villagers away, this has been a concern.  The CCRs have expired and people have been doing their own thing for awhile.  Appearance is the reason we are going with stucco and we will try to make it as attractive as possible, using palm trees and accents, but it's going up.

Re: RV garage

Reply #27 –
Sven, I think if you are going to going to run cable underground to the barn and connecting it (I am pretty sure it would have to be a herd wired connection in a box, not a plug) to an exisiting circuit the entire length from the barn to the original CB panel needs to be used for wire size.  If you have two breaker slots avaailable then a 220v 30 amp circuit would give you lots more flexibility in the long run.  A 50 amp circuit pushes wire size and cost up fast.

Re: RV garage

Reply #28 –
I agree with Roger add another conducter underground for 240 v future, I don't think you can run a neutral to a sub panel for 120 vac only anyway, so your back to a ground rod. Check with your electrician. Electric vehicle charging stations may be an asset also soon.

Re: RV garage

Reply #29 –
I put the coach house/shop on a separate 200 amp service as our residential prime time demand (money grab) charges are very hefty from 2:00 till 8:00, once you go over the base limit. Solar on your coach house roof might be another consideration.

Re: RV garage

Reply #30 –
Wiring a sub panel in the barn requires a wire with two hots, one neutral and one ground wire from the main panel
The sub panel requires that the ground and neutral wires are separated and isolated - the neutral buss bonding screw needs to be removed (it's a dark colored screw) and a small buss gets added to the box wall for the ground wire
This gives you a fully functional panel allowing for regular receptacles a lighting as well as your RV hook up.

Re: RV garage

Reply #31 –
Thank you for all the suggestions - I've learned a number of things.  I'm taking bids from electricians for the job.  I've decided to go with 50A 240v supply with interior and exterior 50A receptacles.  An sub panel in the garage will allow me to put in lights and any 20A outlets I might need to run air compressor and tools.  I'm also going to upgrade my 200A main panel with new CBs though it  isn't necessary.  I just don't like old electrical stuff.

Re: RV garage

Reply #32 –
I don't think you will regret this wise decision. A few more bucks, but a decent flexable infrastructure. That may allow that extra roof area to support a solar array, and if that array leak a few drips no big deal ^.^d

Re: RV garage

Reply #33 –
Good choice, Sven.  It adds value to the barn now and for future uses of the building.  I like having a coach plug in point when the coach is inside and a second one that I can reach when the coach is outside. 

Re: RV garage

Reply #34 –
Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 –
Good choice, Sven.  It adds value to the barn now and for future uses of the building.  I like having a coach plug in point when the coach is inside and a second one that I can reach when the coach is outside. 
I did the same, with a 20/30/50 amp connection box outside for summer work or a guest. Or a welder etc.

Re: RV garage

Reply #35 –
I looked at adding 600 watts of solar on the roof of the barn (not the best angles) but enough to keep the batteries charged.  I also have an off peak 240v 30 amp circuit that is unused.  Power at 4¢ / kwh is OK,

Re: RV garage

Reply #36 –
Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 –
I looked at adding 600 watts of solar on the roof of the barn (not the best angles) but enough to keep the batteries charged.  I also have an off peak 240v 30 amp circuit that is unused.  Power at 4¢ / kwh is OK,
We have three rates with the "super off peak" being that time when everyone is normally asleep.  I wonder if we can set up a timer for it to come on only during those  times.

Re: RV garage

Reply #37 –
Our off peak is on all the time except when the electric coop want to limit use.  AC, Water Heater, and Unused circuit are all remotely controlled.  They can turn off AC 15 min per hour when demand is high.  Same with the unused circuit.  And the water heater is on from 11PM to 4AM unless we ask them to leave it on.  All power through the off peak meter is at the off peak rate.

Re: RV garage

Reply #38 –
Quote from: craneman –
This was my solution on a limited budget. Over 20 years of use. new tarp every 7 to 8 years.
We are thinking of doing something similar next to our existing Pole barn. Do you mind sharing the manufacture? Size of pipe. I have looked at several and it is difficult to know what exactly I need. Also are you in the snow? We live in Wisconsin so I need something that will take the winters.

Re: RV garage

Reply #39 –
The manufacturer is Absolute Steel based in Phoenix.  Another you might check is Versa Tube, which is very similar, for comparison.  They were pretty good at designing the building to match my needs.  In doing my research, I wanted to find someone with history and large accounts; in this case, they have done contracts with the US government.  They can answer questions regarding snow loads, etc.
  Metal Building Kits, Garages, & Carports by Absolute Steel