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Topic: RV garage (Read 4522 times) previous topic - next topic

RV garage

I'm still researching RV barn and am nearing a solution.  Our city planning department "threw a wrench" into things, in that the over all height for the setback we want would be 15'.  Since the roll up doors require 22" above opening, that leaves me with a 12' tall door opening.  Is this feasible?

Re: RV garage

Reply #1 –
Depends on the height of your coach.  Have you looked at side folding doors?  May increase the opening height.

Keith

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Reply #2 –
Some overhead doors are available with low clearance track option

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Reply #4 –
My overall height (top of front A/C cover) is 11' 3" in travel mode.  With 9 inches actual clearance I should be fine.  I'm not concerned about a future property buyer with a 13' coach that's 45' long.

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Reply #5 –
These are the doors I made for our barn.  Center sections are 4" narrower than the outer ones.  This lets them fold open more than 90°.  You need a good sized flat place to build the doors. Mortise and tenoned frames glued, clamped square. Concrete blocks to hold them flat.  Then glue and nail the skin on, Concret pe blocks again to hold the flat until glue dries.

Re: RV garage

Reply #6 –
That was a heck of a job Roger.  I know from experience that it was much more difficult than you described.  When considering "barn doors" I thought about how much weight would be on the hinges;  adding more and then folding does a lot to alleviate that problem.  I can imagine how much fun they were to hang (straight)!  Others can't appreciate how much went into this project, if they haven't attempted something similar themselves.  "My hat's off to you".

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Reply #7 –
This was my solution on a limited budget. Over 20 years of use. new tarp every 7 to 8 years.

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Reply #8 –
Thanks, Sven.  Lots of thinking and planning before anything else.  The middle hinges went on to the two halves with the doors on the floor.  All of the ouside hinges got mounted to the doors.  Sitll on the floor.  A couple helpers, lots of wedges, get it in place and then lots of screws.  3/16" gaps all around. About 1/4" at the center.

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Reply #9 –
I have also seen very low clearance vertical accordion doors where the panels accordion to the exterior. I would have saved a fair amount on my coach house with a 13' tall door, instead of my 14' door and 16' ceiling. Once the sidewalls hit 16' they have to be stamped by a structural engineer here in town. No regrets as I can walk nearly vertical across the coach roof if needed.

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Reply #10 –
You can get sectional high lift doors as we use them on our commercial buildings, they would work.

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Reply #11 –
Some people call them aircraft doors. Custom trusses are an option or instead of a peaked roof just a slanted flat roof with enough slope for run off is an option.

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Reply #12 –
Roger, can you show me where the back door is?

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Reply #13 –
I have a 12' opening on my roll up and need 11' 7'' clearance.  Just make sure your installer can use the full 12 feet and that the door is fully retracted.  It's a pain mount since most use the header beam of the door framing and full clearance requires lifting the unit higher.  Good luck!

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Reply #14 –
Five doors.  Front and rear and one side are swing doors,  16' and 10' sliding doors on sides. Rear door was sized so that the engine hatch will open.  Big side slider opens up to allow access side bays.

This was the maximum allowable size we could build, 14x40x12.  Just big enough.

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Reply #16 –
I have a CHI overhead door with the Low Headroom option on my shop.  It is 14'3" high and only needs 11" of headroom.  They can be ordered in 3" height increments.

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Reply #17 –
We are still  going through the permitting process with the city on our garage.  Because this  is a high fire hazard area, I had to get an endorsement from the fire marshal (we were on a strike team together in '03) with regard to set back from the property line and house.  Not only with my structure be metal and stucco (non combustible), but I also have install a sprinkler system, which requires me to change out the water meter to a 1" line ($1800).  The final dimensions will be 20'x44' and just under 15' tall with 12x12 with a manual sectional roll up door.
 I will put a sub panel in that will allow for 30A  and some 20A outlets.  Has anyone had experience wiring a detached garage?  Presently I have a 30A outlet at the house (outside garage wall) that I use for charging the coach.  I plan to put in a junction box there and running wire underground (22" deep if I remember).  The distance will be about 25'.  Will 10ga wire do?  I need to put something down for the permit and will get an electrician later.

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Reply #18 –

Awesome job on that build Roger!  You did a great job of thinking it all through! ^.^d

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Reply #19 –
Sen,  go with #8 for that Length and be safe.  The cost difference is not much  and you will have a nice steady voltage.
JohnH