Winterizing -air blow out

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Winterizing -air blow out

October 28, 2018, 07:41:38 pm

I don't have a by-pass on my hot water heater and have always used RV antifreeze to winterize the system.
I have a dishwasher and washer dryer. By the time I fill the water heater and flush out the washer and dishwasher I go through about 20gal of the antifreeze. The coach heat is Primus.

I would like to try and do it with air pressure. I ordered the fitting today to hook to my garage air compressor. I thought if I ran the dishwasher and washer the air pressure might blow the water out of the lines with about 35# of air pressure.

The next question, I have a U320 with the electric water fill valve, I always use the water pump, never street water service. I'm not sure what the correct valve setting would be with the air blow out, OPEN or CLOSED?

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #1 – October 28, 2018, 07:53:41 pm

Not sure on your appliances but use the city water fill hose not the tank as you can blow the tank apart by the build up of pressure in it. I have neither of those items so when I blow out the system it is easier.
John

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #2 – October 28, 2018, 08:19:19 pm

I had planned to use the city water fill.

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #3 – October 28, 2018, 08:35:31 pm

Lon, I use about 20 psi, It might take longer but safer. Open the fill valve, hook up the air to the city water inlet. Open every each of the water faucets, hot then cold until air comes out. Move on to the next faucet. Don't forget the faucet in the wet bay. Then open each of the water drain line valves, four in my coach.

Open the tank drain line and drain the tank. Make sure there is no water in the accumulator tank. I always use anti-freeze so that takes care of mine.

Make sure your wast tanks are empty. Be sure to put in a couple cups of anti-freeze in each drain. Water will stay in the and you need to add the pink stuff.

I just put in the anti-freeze every year. It only taks six gallons. I will not take a chance.

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #4 – October 28, 2018, 08:42:30 pm

Also open the drain on the bottom of the faucet in the bay where the sewer drain is.

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #5 – October 28, 2018, 08:48:29 pm

Yup, don't forget that one, the cartridges are like $50 each.

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #6 – October 28, 2018, 09:28:44 pm

hmm. I'm with Roger - one missed item and a costly repair could far outweigh savings on many years of anti-freeze.
FWIW, if you have icemaker in coach or refirgeraotr, the icemaker line is the most comonnly missed line and most frequent to be damaged and leak due to winterization errors.

My winterization routine.

1 - Go SOmeplace warm, where you can wear shorts 2 - leave plugged in with aquahot on - # when it gets too cold, repaet step one and two as needed.

Tim Fiedler

Sure Start Soft Start - home of SureStart soft starters TCER Direct - home of Generac Approved Aluminum and Copper TCER Composite cable generator-gas-prod - home of X-Riser Gas Risers for PE installation Call me at 630 240-9139
Gen-Pro

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #7 – October 28, 2018, 10:06:39 pm

I would NEVER rely on blowing any RV out. One there is moister in the air. 2nd, there are too many small area's that water can still be trapped. Example, the toilet valve.
Installing a by pass is not a big deal. If not, it's worth 10 gallons of anti freeze, you can always capture it when done.
When we winterized the lot coach's, we had a cart with a tank. The coaches with Aquahots got anti freeze pumped through them. We used a RV pump, ran it through the city fill.
Just make a hose to hook up at the pump, then pump it through the system. Don't pour it in the fresh water tank. Believe it or not, I have seen this done.
I just finished my 30th plus winterize today. Over the last 10 years, probably winterized 500 coaches. Never had a issue.
Chris

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #8 – October 28, 2018, 11:42:16 pm

I drain the entire system of water, then blow out with air. Then I put nine gallons of RV antifreeze in the fresh water tank. The water heater hogs six gallons. I pump the RTV antifreeze thru the system using the Shurflo pump. Once I have pink coming out every faucet and drain, I drain the RV antifreeze out of the system and then blow out the residual pink stuff with the air hose.
I then put RV antifreeze in each sink drain and the tub drain, along with about a quart in each black and grey tank, so the valves are kept wet. I leave the fresh water tank drain and the cold & hot water drains open during the winter.
The ice maker I disconnect and blow out the tubing until I see pink coming out. I leave the tubing disconnected but put a paper towel sticking out of the grate to remind me that the tubing is disconnected.
My backflow preventor went belly up this summer so I can just open the shutoff valve I put on the connector and let pink drain out.
I do remove the filter element out of my water filter canister prior to adding any RV antifreeze to the system.

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #9 – October 29, 2018, 12:36:39 am

Well, looks like I should stick with the tried and true method of pumping the anti-freeze through the system and running it through the appliances, Never a problem with that method, just a boat load of antifreeze jugs to toss at the end.
I use a 5 gal bucket and fill it with anti-freeze, then put the hose from the water pump in the bucket, keep topping off the bucket while I run around opening and closing valves and faucets.
The first year I had the coach I DID forget the outside sewer bay faucet, sure enough it froze and cracked. Lucky, it cracked on the bottom rear, I was able to use JB weld to repair the split, still working.

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #10 – October 29, 2018, 12:47:28 am

I stored our Roadtrek one winter in Germany. I could not find potable antifreeze anywhere. I ended up buying a few bottles of the cheapest vodka I could find and pumping that through the water system. Thankfully it is a small RV with not much plumbing.

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #11 – October 29, 2018, 10:16:02 am

The last place I would put RV antifreeze is in the fresh water tank. Very hard to get the last bit out in the early warm weather and it tastes terrible (on purpose).

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #12 – October 29, 2018, 10:38:39 am

Come spring I deliberately fill the fresh water tank, and the two holding tanks all the way to "the top" to check that the sensors are still reading correctly. I don't want any surprises like a black tank suddenly being full.
I do fill and flush the fresh water tank at least three times. The minute bit of RV antifreeze left in the tank over the winter is considerably diluted and we don't drink that water anyway. Also, sanitizing the system in the spring further dilutes the "pink stuff".
We bring or buy our drinking water. The fresh water tank we fill at the CG. 8#/gallon x 75 gallons adds up to 600# of water to carry over the front axle (and the DW and yours truly aren't getting any lighter either!!)

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #13 – October 29, 2018, 11:10:20 am

Quote from: nitehawk – October 29, 2018, 10:38:39 am

Come spring I deliberately fill the fresh water tank, and the two holding tanks all the way to "the top" to check that the sensors are still reading correctly. I don't want any surprises like a black tank suddenly being full.
I do fill and flush the fresh water tank at least three times. The minute bit of RV antifreeze left in the tank over the winter is considerably diluted and we don't drink that water anyway. Also, sanitizing the system in the spring further dilutes the "pink stuff".
We bring or buy our drinking water. The fresh water tank we fill at the CG. 8#/gallon x 75 gallons adds up to 600# of water to carry over the front axle (and the DW and yours truly aren't getting any lighter either!!)

With all do respect, it may work for you. But RV anti freeze, especially the stuff with alcohol in it, will stain and perforate the plastic tank with the smell and taste. Seen it more times then one.
It's hard enough to get the taste and smell out of the water heater, but if you don't have a by pass, it's all you can do.
Just hook a temporary jump hose to the water pump, or use a pump to pump it through the city fill.
Chris

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #14 – October 29, 2018, 12:26:40 pm

I was getting "cloudy" looking smelly water from the water heater. So I purchased nine one gallon jugs of 5% vinegar. Filled the system thru the Shurflo pump, fired up the water heater and left it on for 24-30 hours. Drained the system, flushed twice with tap water from our house and cloudy smelly water was gone. Had to clean faucet screens of mineral flakes tho.

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #15 – October 29, 2018, 01:10:21 pm

Store atifreezein that bucket for next Season?

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #16 – November 04, 2018, 10:13:38 am

Quote from: gracerace – October 28, 2018, 10:06:39 pm

I would NEVER rely on blowing any RV out. One there is moister in the air. 2nd, there are too many small area's that water can still be trapped. Example, the toilet valve.
Installing a by pass is not a big deal. If not, it's worth 10 gallons of anti freeze, you can always capture it when done.
When we winterized the lot coach's, we had a cart with a tank. The coaches with Aquahots got anti freeze pumped through them. We used a RV pump, ran it through the city fill.
Just make a hose to hook up at the pump, then pump it through the system. Don't pour it in the fresh water tank. Believe it or not, I have seen this done.
I just finished my 30th plus winterize today. Over the last 10 years, probably winterized 500 coaches. Never had a issue.
Chris

Quote from: gracerace – October 28, 2018, 10:06:39 pm

When we winterized the lot coach's, we had a cart with a tank. The coaches with Aquahots got anti freeze pumped through them. We used a RV pump, ran it through the city fill.

Chris, I'm interested in this approach. While I plan to have heat running through the aquahot throughout the winter being a new owner I would like the reassurance I won't have any freeze ups. Is the procedure to hook hose to the city fill with a 3 or 4 GPM pump drawing the pink stuff from a 5 gal bucket refilling as necessary? Approximately how many gallons would this take running through entire system (not holding take) including washer and icemaker? Once I verified pink out of all outlets and pour a little in the drains would this be satisfactory?

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #17 – November 04, 2018, 10:59:53 am

Search for winterizing, lots of posts. Here is a pdf on doing the job. Use the water pump to suck in the pink stuff from a 5 gal bucket. Drain the water tank completely, i do not put pink stuff in the fresh tank. With an AH you don't need to put in a bypass.

This takes us about an hour. About two to flush out and fill in the spring.

Take your time for the first time and do each step twice. It will take longer but practice improves performance.

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #18 – November 04, 2018, 11:45:46 am

Thanks Roger, good advise especially take your time and do everything twice. I have read a lot of threads on winterizing just found Chris's comment on pumping through the city fill interesting and wondered how it may be different than using the coach pump, there may be no difference at all??

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #19 – November 04, 2018, 12:16:26 pm

You can do it that way but it will take more pink stuff and then you have to flush the pink stuff out of the fresh water tank. If you don't get it all out you will have some really bad tasting water. If you blow it out first and make sure your fresh tank is empty (lean the coach to the drain side) you will be OK.

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #20 – November 12, 2018, 10:33:47 pm

Low 30s two mornings in a row. Drained the hot water heater. Opened the 3 drains, blew out the lines thru each faucet, ran pump a little after draining, surprised how little water came out after opening the lines, with the additional use of the air compressor. Poured 1/2 gallon of RV Antifreeze in all drains. Ran the Splendide 2100xc washer/dryer thru the gentle wool cycle with no dry cycle and 1/2 gal RV anti freeze in the tub. Drained flush valve on new Dometic 310 just installed. (Concern, I did not disconnect supply line.) Ignored reverse osmosis as prev owner already cracked filters and I'm yet to replace. Ignored residential refer as ice supple not hooked up, unplugged, left doors ajar. Turned off negative battery post disconnects on house and chassis. Parked in covered storage. Good for now. Will report issues if any encountered come spring un-winterizing.

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #21 – November 13, 2018, 01:41:55 am

I blow out lines with air every year. Never an issue. I also use air to blow out the drain traps. Six years in the foretravel and more in my old travel trailer. Never any freeze damage. Whole process takes an hour or so, making it easy to re-winterize if I go somewhere warm and return home prior to spring.

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #22 – November 14, 2018, 10:04:46 am

Our 91 GV has factory installed heat tapes on the hot and cold water lines and for the times that I have used them, they did the job well. I also installed a heat tape on the waste tank piping and valves. Just wondering if any one else has the factory installed heat tapes and if so, do you use them? I don't use them for winter lay up, only for winter travel. Have a great day ---- Fritz

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #23 – November 14, 2018, 10:15:47 am

Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 – October 28, 2018, 08:48:29 pm

Yup, don't forget that one, the cartridges are like $50 each.

Roger (or others), do you have source and part number for the cartridge in the basement faucet? I occasionally get a bit of seepage when the faucet is in use.

Re: Winterizing -air blow out

Reply #24 – November 14, 2018, 10:23:24 am

Quote from: AC7880 – November 14, 2018, 10:15:47 am

Roger (or others), do you have source and part number for the cartridge in the basement faucet?

Dan,

We have been using Moen 121550 for the hot
Moen 121551 for the cold
Now this is for our '97 year faucet and have used these on a '99 also.

Mike

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