Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 14, 2025 ...

So, I had Leaks Galore, in my Fresh Water tank area, and finally found someone to Pull my tank out, and verify that the tank itself was sound, and hoped it was just the old Grey Tubing that was used commonly from 1977, to 1995, the year my FT was made! As said in the Link provided below, that stock was still sold, through 1999, as well?  You might even want to check your Coach out through, 2001, or so, as FT may have Stockpiled it, and used it, through those years perhaps?  ( Not Verified ).  So, it appears it had been determined that Chlorine, Chemically Reacts to the Tubing, and allows tiny cracks to form. That makes sense as we all add Chlorine, routinely so we can sanitize our supply! Polybutylene Plumbing and Pipe Replacement-Polybutylene Lawsuit and Class...

Upon full Investigation, it ended up with 7 Confirmed Failures in that tubing!  When I first saw it, I Immediately Drained the Tank, and used City Supply, only! It did not leak on that leg, so we carried Store Bought water, until I could find someone to repair the lines! I also just filled those gallon jugs a dozen or so, marked XX that we used for Toilet flush water!  It seems it was good Insurance to get that repair done!  I hate Plumbing, as I usually end up with more leaks than I started with! That being said, it has been a nearly 3 month long ordeal to find someone to do the repairs desperately needed.  I called dozens of Plumbers, and equally as many RV Service Centers, until I found one willing to take it to task!

So, the RV Tech, that Pulled the Tank, who had 30 Years experience in the field mentioned that he Never Saw a Tank as huge as the one he pulled out of my Coach!  While Specs for most FT Coaches of this era state, that the Fresh Water Supply capacity is 102 Gallons, the 1995C U-320 SE is 115 Gallons by the Book.  When the tank was Pulled I saw that it stated 207 Gallon capacity.  My question then,  has anyone else have this size tank, as well, that they can confirm?  Or am I missing something here? As most Custom, add - on's and Deletes are commonly done at the Factory, for FT's, it may be possible I have a Huge capability for water, and won't fill it fully, simply because of the weight involved.  The Fuel penalty alone may make it a good idea to maybe 3/4 fill it only? Any Feedback from you Guru's out there would be help in this matter! I will find a Food Grade 55 Gallon plastic drum soon I hope and verify this by filling it up, and Pumping it into that tank.  That would solve it, for sure, unless someone out there has an explanation for this, perhaps?

If you still have the tank out of the coach, just measure the outside dimensions, and calculate the internal volume.  Simple math.

If his tank is like mine, some geometry will be involved to separate the angled section from the rectangle part and calculate.

My 95 300 had a 102 gallon tank.
jor

Dave Head should know.

If you still have the tank out of the coach, just measure the outside dimensions, and calculate the internal volume.  Simple math.

The 207W is Elkhart's part number for that tank.  It holds about 102 gallons now that could be a little more or less.  The last one of those tanks we got were about $1500. So that tank was the standard tank for the Unicoachs when they came out. There are even some of the last Grand Villas that had these tanks. The other water capacity was added by what was in the accumulator tank and water heater.

Mike

But still doable...doesn't have to be precise...just to the nearest gallon or so.

Even so, the above suggested flow meter (thanks to Woody) is probably the more KISS solution.

  That $1,700.00, I spent for Labor and Parts was still a Gouge to my wallet, but so is a $30,00.00 Repair I have read here for Failed Undercarriages, due to leaks!  That really scared me! 

  Now, if I can ONLY figure out how to eliminate the Constant On-Off of the water pump, causing Water Surge Shifts every 4 seconds or so, I'll be Happy!  The Tech said that is Normal?  Any feedback there would be appreciated?

Have you verified that your ACCUMULATOR is OK and has correct PSI?

Tom, I can see right now, when we hit the road again, I will still be in the plumbing, flooring and remoldel business.  I can't believe the prices some charge for their work.  Of course I have no idea how long that plumber was on the job, but that seems quite high to me.
Hanging out my shingle soon! 

vsd rv water pump - Bing


And: How To Pick The Best RV Water Pump For Your RV - RVshare.com

Huh???  I cannot find ANY Accumulator Tank, whatsoever?  Would it be under the Water Heater, perhaps? Makes sense there should be one, though? Just how would you go about Winterizing that Component, then?  Another trip to a Plumber, I see? 
You Certainly should! The Price is $150.00 an hour here in Pismo Beach CA. at the "Sky River RV" Facility!  I was shocked, but this is High Rent District, for sure!  It's about $80.00 an hour, back in PA. but NOBODY wanted to touch it! The stories I could tell you about the truly Inept, and Totally Worthless Techs, I have had, on this trip alone!

I think I still have a hard copy of the Elkhart print for that tank around here somewhere. Now day's it is most likely on there website along with the there other tanks that they rotomold. Never had an opportunity to need any other one of there tanks.  Due to the cost some have found it cheaper to have a tank built at a local welding shop. I will see if I can find the pics. here on the Forum of this.  The tanks with the "foot" were prone to cracks in the foot area, and this tank (207) is the one that we replced those tanks with. Doing that cost them about 8 or so gallons.

One other thought is, with the material make up you can add a new threaded boss by spin welding it into place.

Mike