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Topic: Entry door lock actuator replacement kit (Read 1009 times) previous topic - next topic

Entry door lock actuator replacement kit

Attached is a photo of what the PTL engineering actuator replacement kit for the deadbolt on my '03 looks like.  The original actuator has been discontinued.  It comes with instructions, actuator, rod , and fasteners. 

PTL part #027-071
$89.46


I searched around and found these which I believe are the identical actuator with the same 12lbs of pull, for a lot less money;

CARCHET Central Locking Car Auto Universal Heavy Duty Power Slave Door Lock...

https://www.classiccarinterior.com/dakota-digital-door-actuators-12-lbs-push-or-pull.html

Car Auto Universal Heavy Duty Power Slave Door Lock Actuator Motor 2 Wire...

Re: Entry door lock actuator replacement kit

Reply #1 –

I just ordered this one;

Amazon.com: Absolute DLA-310 Door Lock Actuator: Gateway

Additionally,  most other actuators won't  fit the entry door because they're either too cylindrical / thick or pistol shaped.  I'm happy to be just replacing the actuator and not having to take the door apart inside to get at the upper arm.

Re: Entry door lock actuator replacement kit

Reply #2 –
Quote from: Travelin' Man –
I just ordered this one;

Amazon.com: Absolute DLA-310 Door Lock Actuator: Gateway

Additionally,  most other actuators won't  fit the entry door because they're either too cylindrical / thick or pistol shaped.  I'm happy to be just replacing the actuator and not having to take the door apart inside to get at the upper arm.
Our dead bolt doesn't work with the actuator any more. I have not taken anything apart yet to see what the problem is yet. Should I start just by taking the door panel off to see what the problem is? Looks like I will have to remove the window frame, does the handle you pull to close the door stay on the door panel? Everything else looks pretty straight forward at least standing there looking at it not actually doing it yet. Is there anything I need to be watching out for?
John & Holly Zick
2003 U320
38' Build #6206
FMCA F495485

Re: Entry door lock actuator replacement kit

Reply #3 –
John, my actuator wasn't working either, it was a simple fix, I hope yours is also. The wires between the door and the jamb were broken where they make a 90 deg turn back up. I was able to open the splitloom there and found the problem thanks to this great group of members and beamalarm (Berry).

Here's the link:

Electric Door Lock Wiring Repair

J.R.
99 U320 40' WTFE
Build # 5388

Re: Entry door lock actuator replacement kit

Reply #4 –
Quote from: OffTheGridRVs –
John, my actuator wasn't working either, it was a simple fix, I hope yours is also. The wires between the door and the jamb were broken where they make a 90 deg turn back up. I was able to open the splitloom there and found the problem thanks to this great group of members and beamalarm (Berry).

Here's the link:

Electric Door Lock Wiring Repair

Thanks J.R. I don't think that's the problem because I can hear the motor engage. I will check it though in any case, to see if there is any damage to the wires and repair as necessary. As one person told me at a campground, "Having an RV is a tinkerers dream."
John & Holly Zick
2003 U320
38' Build #6206
FMCA F495485

Re: Entry door lock actuator replacement kit

Reply #5 –
You're welcome John, hopefully it's the just rod that came off between the actuator and latch then. I did take the latch cover off first, and I believe you can see the actuator and rod from there without pulling the whole door panel off.


Rookie:)
J.R.
99 U320 40' WTFE
Build # 5388

Re: Entry door lock actuator replacement kit

Reply #6 –
I repaired one actuator on a compartment door by re-soldering the wires back on to the metal plug contacts.
The one in the entry door has a broken nylon gear that can't be mended.

Re: Entry door lock actuator replacement kit

Reply #7 –
We ordered two actuators mostly because I wasn't paying attention and ordered the wrong one, which ended up being the one we used. It was a part no 330-010 off eBay. We tried the one T-man got and it didn't seem to have enough power to push the mechanism. It may have just been a bad part because although it extended it did not stay in the extended position when you released the fob. In any case it took some creative engineering to get this one to work and about 3 weekends of playing with it to get it right but it is finally done and working. Sorry I could not get the picture to rotate on my work computer so it is sideways. we had to go with adjustable throttle linkage to attach the rod to the locking mechanism, Sorry I should have taken a picture from that side as well but once it was together I didn't want to take it apart again.
John & Holly Zick
2003 U320
38' Build #6206
FMCA F495485