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Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Thanks to Roger, i have had the coach (2001) parked with manual leveling rather than auto.  Trying it out.

I read before of this option but it seemed easier to just use auto.  However, in auto it makes more frequent demands on aux air,  solenoids, and still results in about a month of having to refill the main tanks.

The manual leveling greatly smooths that out.  About only every third day i make a small adjustment to the high side, small exhaust of air.

Result is no aux compressor running a couple of times a day, danger of it running too long if we are gone, no minor adjusting that is really not needed.  Simpler

Thanks Roger for the instructions....others have told me before but i was hardheaded i guess and stayed with auto.  Not now!
Mike
2001 U320 4010 Build 5878 (Gus)
Wrangle Unlimited Toad
Nacogdoches

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #1 –
Unless I'm on a big slope, I put the tire covers on the tires, then dump the air and raise the coach from there. That puts the coach resting on at least one tire, and not very far above the others. The step is as close to the outside as possible. I use the auto level first, then fine-tune the leveling. We prefer to have the rear slightly high because that puts the head of the bed slightly high, which makes for better sleep.

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #2 –
How does this work?
1993 U300 40ft GV SE
Build # 4344

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #3 –
We either start with auto-level and then fine-tune with EZ-Level
or just manual level with EZ-Level.

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #4 –
Procedure for manual leveling?

Thanks in advance,

George
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George Hatfield

  Never ever use World Line Motors of Nacogdoches for service!

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #5 –
George, see page 17 of 19 for manual leveling (from 1999) leveling.

Basically what I saw was do not lower air first, level side to side first and then front to back. 


97 U295 40, Build #5040, 6C8.3 325 HP
Oregon Continuous Traveler
Samsung Residential #RF20HFENBSR,
Xantrex SW2012, (3)AGM8D Hse, (2)AGM Grp24 Eng, Victron BMV-712, 1800w Solar 4 LG & 2 Sunpower
Extreme Full Body Pt w/hdlmps, new furn/floor, 4 down Lexus 2004 GX470 AWD curb weight 4,740 lbs
Prev: 1990 Barth, 10L 300 2 yrs; 91&92 Monaco Signature, 10 yrs, 10L C 300 &  6C8.3 300; 1997 ForeT 6C8.3 325 since May 2017.  Employed by Guaranty RV 14+ yrs.  Former VW New Car Dlr/Service Dlr, Sales Mgr, Rv Sales, and Service Adviser from 1968-2017
"Don't criticize what you can't understand" Bob Dylan

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #6 –
I am glad it is working Mike, here is what I suggested that Mike try.

When we get somewhere I turn on the small compressor, leave the engine running and push the Air/Level button once, level generally by adding air to the low side and end, hook up power if we have it, put the room out, adjust level as needed, leave the Air/Level in manual, shut the engine off, key off, leave the small compressor run for a while (maybe 5 min) turn it off.  I have a digital level that I depend on.

Now the manual system is on, compressor is off, key is off, engine is off.  If after awhile you want to adjust level, let some air out of the high side.  Usually on mine it takes just a second or two.  I don't care so much about front to back, just side to side.  We will make a couple adjustments in a month.  Do it in the morning before the sun heats up the tires on one side or in the evening. 

I have a valve and pressure gauge in the line to the slide bladder.  I don't close the valve to the bladder because I don't want to forget to open it when I want to deflate it.  I check pressure in the bladder, it stays at 12 psi for weeks.  Bladder, bladder air line, valves, gauge and the bladder manifold hold air.

Mike's and my 2001 have the same air system in our coaches. If you have a 120v compressor with you can connect it to the aux air connection in the LP bay and add air to raise the coach to adjust level.  This may or may not work in other coaches.

Did that help?

Roger

The HWH system in Auto Leveling Mode works great as well.  With some small leaks like every coach has the aux compressor comes on from time to time even if the coach stays level.  Our coach stays just as level and the compressor does not cycle in manual level mode.  Try it for yourself.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #7 –
Always grateful Roger for your help...and the level that Barry told me about can help someone too.  Don Hay also uses it I think.

MOT says the tension on my slide awning is too low, need to correct that. 

And Roger, Trina is cutting mat for the front to fill in the entire entry area.....you may remember I did the first install I only made it for the driver area.  Now will be across the entire front.

MOT will do all the measurement on the roof AC systems as Neal Pillsbury outlined, be sure we are okay to continue with what I have vs replace.  MOT said Neal very right about the fan being a vulnerable point, good idea to check the amps.

FYI, if you not know, Derek had been service manager at MOT about nine years ago, he left to other industry but is back at MOT2, joins up with Mike Weaver, etc there.  That shop is so busy with so many coaches being moved thru delivery.  A relief to get Derek, I am told.  Adding 15 more electrical pedestals.

P.S. Roger....Charlie misses you.  There is a cousin being born in a week if you and Susan want a travel companion.
Mike
2001 U320 4010 Build 5878 (Gus)
Wrangle Unlimited Toad
Nacogdoches

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #8 –
Oh how I miss the manual leveling levers on the 1990 U280— it was fool proof and stone simple, no electronics and never failed and no trips to Moscow to get it fixed!
Current coach 1996 U320 40'
Previous coach, 1990 36' U280

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #9 –
Manual Leveling versus Auto Leveling

I'm not saying anyone (above) is doing anything wrong, but I feel the need to put in one vote for using Auto Level.  I don't want our newer Forum members and coach owners to get the impression that the HWH Auto Level system can't be trusted.  Perhaps it is because our old coach is much simpler (no slides), but I have found the Auto Level to be very reliable and accurate.  Our air system is fairly tight, but still it does have leaks so not unusual in that regard.

After we park, with the coach at ride height and engine running, I hit the AIR button twice and let HWH do its thing.  We always end up perfectly level (unless we parked in a very steep location).  After the coach is level, I let the air dryer purge and then I shut down the engine.  I always leave the Auto Level ON - the system will maintain level for a long time by occassionally exhausting a little air.  It will take a month or longer before the system finally has to add air with the 12V AUX pump to maintain level.

Every owner should operate their coach systems as they think best.  What works for one does not always work for all.  DWMYH
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #10 –
Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
Manual Leveling versus Auto Leveling

I'm not saying anyone (above) is doing anything wrong, but I feel the need to put in one vote for using Auto Level.  I don't want our newer Forum members and coach owners to get the impression that the HWH Auto Level system can't be trusted.  Perhaps it is because our old coach is much simpler (no slides), but I have found the Auto Level to be very reliable and accurate.

Our auto-leveling system also works quite well. I use the manual controls at times, such as when I want to lower one side for dumping tanks, but have found no need to fine-tune the controls when I simply want the coach to be level.
David and Carolyn Osborn
1995 U320C SE 40' Build 4726 Feb 1995
FMCA 147762
Motorcade 17186

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #11 –
Chuck, agree.  Used auto always.  But I found ours must leak enough that aux has to run daily about once or twice maybe.  Leak is not in bladder.

Interestingly, if on level site I can just shut off from Travel mode and it sits level for weeks.  Not in auto mode, not adjusting manually.  And in Manual, I went a week without exhausting any to level

System seems pretty air tight I guess though yours better.  I am trying to avoid the aux compressor running without me in control.  I have a switch on it so can turn off.  When we are gone a long time I just trying to avoid a situation where could damage the compressor

Sorry such a long response, do support the Auto level use, have used it for nine years we owned. 

Manual may be a good option for me.  Learning.  I want to avoid cranking to fill main tanks once a month while at a park.  Manual not going to avoid that any more than Auto
Mike
2001 U320 4010 Build 5878 (Gus)
Wrangle Unlimited Toad
Nacogdoches

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #12 –
Mike,

When you use Auto Level, does your HWH system drop the coach all the way down as low as possible, and then level from that position?  Or does it start at travel height, and Auto Level from that position?

I ask because some of the HWH systems on newer coaches automatically lower the coach first, and then level from the lowered position.

Also, some owners manually drop their suspension down before turning on the Auto Level, so that the entry steps will end up closer to the ground.

The problem I see with starting the Auto Level process from a fully lowered position is that you are removing one of the two available "correction" options from the HWH system.  The system cannot release air from the bags to maintain level - it can only add air.  In that case, once the system air pressure has bled off, any adjustment deemed necessary by the HWH system can only be accomplished by running the AUX compressor.

Note that I am not passing judgement on any of these different procedures.  I'm just commenting on how the HWH system works.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #13 –
Chuck, I just auto level from Travel

I might do better to raise to max and then level? 

We not want or need it lowest to ground, for with the park shape the bays in places get low enough to ground that hard to use without crawling!

P.s.  I put single 2x6s under duals on driver side and three high under the driver front wheel to manage the site slope
Mike
2001 U320 4010 Build 5878 (Gus)
Wrangle Unlimited Toad
Nacogdoches

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #14 –
Quote from: Michael & Jackie –
I might do better to raise to max and then level? 
I don't know if it would be "better" but would be interesting to try as a experiment.  Might reduce the pump running times?  Or it might not...

If the pump is running to correct loss of air pressure at some point other than the air bags, then probably would not make any difference.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #15 –
Chuck, as I reviewed the schematic, it is only for the air bags and bladder.  If air leaves the third tank, a check valve supposedly stops it from going otherwise.  Or tank drain valve might leak

If I wrong, really thank you or whomever for explanation

Now, I had a pressure gauge put on the tank.  Did so I could know psi loss  rate and when I might need to turn on the aux.  the more I traced lines, over time watching pressures, the more I thought the gauge did not show the tank but the line in.  That is a problem if trying to watch tank pressure condition. MOT agreed and repositioned the gauge, recently.

I have twice over years via the gauge and timing pressure to cut off found that the aux would likely fail to shutoff and be ruined.  Hence my kind of obsession with controlling that system.  we RV park a long way from mechanics and parts help BUT do have the Forum, MOT/FOT on phone and especially the very valued help of neighbors like Hay and Scott and Kent and Brett

Thanks Chuck
Mike
2001 U320 4010 Build 5878 (Gus)
Wrangle Unlimited Toad
Nacogdoches

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #16 –
Quote from: Michael & Jackie –
If I wrong, really thank you or whomever for explanation
Sorry Mike - I don't know enough about your air system to offer any advice.  Need to talk to Roger or someone with similar model/year coach.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Manual Leveling, Thanks Roger

Reply #17 –
Auto is nice. Now that all the air leaks are fixed with Tom's kits, no  more waking up falling out of bed on the R/R.
No more compressor kicking on and scaring the cat.
Beside the valves, I found probably 10 small leaks that all added up at the tanks.Appears the sealer had dried out on many of the fitting.
Chris
Chris and Tammy White  CDA Idaho
Previous owners 1997 U295 36' 3126 Cat 300 HP Build # 4998
Former Foretravel tech & RVIA certified tech
Former owner Custom Satellite home/RV satellites 
Former owner Vans LTD  van conversions
Unemployed, panhandler, drag racer NHRA #6348