Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches February 28, 2026 ...

...do you have to find the frame work in the roof to be able to attach the panels and stuff?

I have read so many articles on adding solar that I am totally confused.

So I will see if this is simple way of doing it

I am looking at amsloar's 50A system and was wondering if there is room on the roof for up to 4 170w panels and still be able to move around up there on my 36' coach.

I would guess this is enough to keep my batteries up and on sunny days with the sun over head even run some of the systems.  If I did 4 panels that would give me a max of 680w but I realize getting the full amount is probably not a reality.

What is the roof construction is there plywood under the fiberglass or do you have to find the frame work in the roof to be able to attach the panels and stuff?

Currently I have 2 house batteries and 2 red top starter batteries, but I do have another rack where I could add a 3rd house battery.

If I add solar for charging the batteries I found a place to store my coach about 2 miles from my house instead of 40 miles for the same price.

Do some research into panel sizes, 170 watt is pretty small today. You might be able to fit larger 300+ watt panels.

Some members swear by using adhesive to stick the panel brackets on the roof.  Others like to use screws into either the fiberglass or the steel roof frame members.
AM Solar uses glue-on brackets for the installations they do in their shop.  We had ours done there in Sept of 2015 with glued-on brackets.  Have had zero failure of anything they installed in the 4 years since.

40' U320, eight 180 watt panels. I can walk (very carefully) from rear ladder to front with some careful step arounds.

Yes it is but you willneed supports to hold them at an angle. Easy tomake them.
JohnH

I wondered about the size but I thought the more watts the larger the panel?

Thanks, all my appliances are still gas so that may be a bit more than what I need but you never know, more is better :-)  how many watts are your panels.

If the batteries are at float does the system just shut off incoming power?

I am probably to clumsy to have that many. "LOL"

True, but it not proportional eg: 340 watt panel approx 78X39. 170 watt panel approx. 58X26. First time I bought panels, made a template out of cardboard and tried it on different spot on the roof to see where they could fit. You will also see the price per watt normally goes way down with bigger panels.
Bigger panels often mean higher voltage which means smaller wiring down to controller.
Been using uni-strut  and VHB tape for many years with no problems.

Steve, for the level of effort and $ put on as many high wattage panels that you can.  I have 4 300 watt full sized commercial panels, non-tilting with custom brackets that match the curve of the roof stuck on with 3M VHB tape.  This is a project many can do themselves.  I can get to everything on the roof that might need it.  I would suggest finding a panel that you think will work and make a cardboard cutout the same size, maybe several, and see how they will fit on your roof.  Your rear roof rack is a limiting feature there but you can work around it or remove it.

We can get more than 6KWh on a good summer day (about twice what we use).  Mid winter gloom, low sun angles maybe 2KWh.  It is sort of a best fit.  You want enough to fully recharge your batteries every day.  Adding another battery with the same use reduces the depth of discharge on each battery and increases their life. If you are lucky, very limited generator time. Send a PM if I can help more.

I put 4 285 watt panels (330 watts today) on our 36 foot roof. I screwed them down, some into the aluminum supports, some into the glass/wood. The roof is .400" thick, a think layer of FG and then the rest is wood. There were already at least a couple hundred screws into the roof so I added about 40 more. No problems or leaks in over 10 years. I have not touched anything since I installed it.
If you have a drill press, saw and just a little talent, make your own mounts. Just do a neat job without cables looking like a San Francisco trolly.
See my old list of materials, sources from years ago. Don't tilt the panels unless you are clever. If you try and get up on the roof to tilt them, you WILL fall off sooner or later and probably end your RV life.
Pierce

Eight 180 watt panels, 1440 watts total.
  36' coach I would probably do no more then 6 180 watts.  Less if only for storage purposes.  With the right solar controller it will taper down then shut off charging as needed for long battery life.

Thanks, I really dont want to burn up my batteries, I am not sure how old they are but so far they seem to be holding up OK.

Does not matter how much solar you have, a good solar controller will shut off, and not overcharge your batteries. If you read the forum, you will see many have gone to residential fridges. If you do that down the road, you will be happy with the extra charging ability.