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Topic: My basement rebuild (Read 8480 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #20 –
Quote from: stump –
Interesting But I  think this repair will suffice. We are looking at a 28 year old coach also. I think this will last as long as I use it.
Dont think this would be for you for the most part... would be for the next guy.. if any ^.^d

Thats how I would do it just because..Dont think these really rust from the outside "in"... think the water gets through the bolts and water sits in the tube and rusts from the inside "out".. Just a guess.. Also, do what you feel is correct.. in 20 years I dont think it will matter as you say.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #21 –
Basement Floor.
More progress made this afternoon after spending the morning chasing semi truck parts for the suspension shop.
I got all the 3/8 Grade 8 fasteners and mounted rear bulkhead 1/8 box tube. Next  was to cut and drill the first divider wall to proper length and then the holes to match up with existing holes in wall metal. The metal looks structurally good with nice clean threads. I will use new rolock bolts again on these walls as Foretravel did. I will use red locktight on final assembly and use my torque wrench to tighten them up.
What I am finding is the metal in old bottom is so corroded the measurements are not working out check check and check again. I am in a way having to reverse engineer this as I assemble it mounted on the coach. I ran a piece if box tube from the rear bulkhead up to the front cutoff and clamped it.this gave me a accurate reference point to measure over to divider wall holes and make accurate marks for the holes. My plan is to get the last divider wall stringer cut and drilled. Once it is mounted my plan is to check my original reference point measurement and if that is all good I will tack weld all this up on the coach bolted in position. Then drop it back out and cut and tack weld the box webbing in place. Then reinstall it making sure nothing has tweaked  if still good make  a couple good welds then drop it back out and finish weld it....

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #22 –
For metal airplanes ( and old race cars)we blow hot linseed oil into the  tubes.
 Really nice job Stump. I assume that  you have the bus on jack stands for the entire length?  Well done.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #23 –
Quote from: Protech Racing –
For metal airplanes ( and old race cars)we blow hot linseed oil into the  tubes.
 Really nice job Stump. I assume that  you have the bus on jack stands for the entire length?  Well done.
I have it sitting on. 2x6 blocks i used levels and got it pretty dang level side to side and front to back. I then put 8 4x4 blocks cut at 8" between upper and lower frame rails and dropped air bags.I  made some measurements from rear bulkhead forward past where I cut so if anything shifted front to back i would know and be able to correct it. So far nothing seems to have changed.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #24 –
In the Aircraft world, they use AV40. Ardrox AV 40 is a heat resistant, colorless, corrosion inhibiting compound (CIC) that forms a tack-free, firm film. AV 40 is applied as a corrosion-inhibiting coating to protect metals commonly used in airframe structures and in aerospace components. AV 40 is designed for use in areas of the aircraft exposed to elevated temperatures. Typical applications include engine components, pylons and cowlings. AV 40 will withstand continuous temperatures up to 150°C (302°F) and short term exposure to temperatures up to 210°C (410°F). AV 40 is colorless and can be applied to aircraft exterior surfaces exposed to high temperatures, (for example, adjacent to auxiliary power unit (APU) exhaust systems where hot gases are expelled).
AV 40 is not affected by contact with alkaline cleaning chemicals or high pressure hot water cleaning.
Quote from: Protech Racing –
For metal airplanes ( and old race cars)we blow hot linseed oil into the  tubes.
 Really nice job Stump. I assume that  you have the bus on jack stands for the entire length?  Well done.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #25 –
Everything is coming together. Just about ready to drop the frame out and finnish weld joints. Then coat everything with Rust Bullet . Reinsulate and add skin. More to come....

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #26 –
When you mix the rust bullet remember to stir not shake,keeps the air bubbles down.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #27 –
Basement Floor.. I got the frame all welded up and the top and bottom welds ground flat.  I got a good coat if rust bullet on it and will flip it over in the morning and coat other side.I  also coated the rear bulkhead 1/4 angle and the bottom part of my filler plate. I will rust bullet that once the too edge is welded in.
 As I have been in and under my coach doing this repair I see where there were design issues that allowed this to happen. I got this in 2014 so it was 24 yrs old then. But this rot had started much earlier. I see what I think is the main culprit for this. The fresh water tank has a overflow tube. It is a green looking ribbed tube. It runs behind the water heater over to the back bulkhead wall. If you look in your waterpump heater bay you should see it. The problem is when you fill your tank most of us wait until we have water running down outside just in front of rear wheel. Well I  usually do. So you fill water tank and off you go.Well that water overflow runs from the top of the tank and back to that bulkhead fitting. When your tank is full or near the top whenever you start to slosh water driving down the road or turn left water runs out that pipe it works it's way back and runs out. Where, right down the back wall and seeps down into your rear bulkhead flooring. Over all those years that uncoated metal got wet.
I am going to run a PVC  tube from that point down to the bottom below the bulkhead area. This is just my opinion after doing all this repair.  Here are some pictures! Because Everybody Loves Pictures!!!

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #28 –
Quote from: stump –
Basement Floor.. I got the frame all welded up and the top and bottom welds ground flat.  I got a good coat if rust bullet on it and will flip it over in the morning and coat other side.I  also coated the rear bulkhead 1/4 angle and the bottom part of my filler plate. I will rust bullet that once the too edge is welded in.
 As I have been in and under my coach doing this repair I see where there were design issues that allowed this to happen. I got this in 2014 so it was 24 yrs old then. But this rot had started much earlier. I see what I think is the main culprit for this. The fresh water tank has a overflow tube. It is a green looking ribbed tube. It runs behind the water heater over to the back bulkhead wall. If you look in your waterpump heater bay you should see it. The problem is when you fill your tank most of us wait until we have water running down outside just in front of rear wheel. Well I  usually do. So you fill water tank and off you go.Well that water overflow runs from the top of the tank and back to that bulkhead fitting. When your tank is full or near the top whenever you start to slosh water driving down the road or turn left water runs out that pipe it works it's way back and runs out. Where, right down the back wall and seeps down into your rear bulkhead flooring. Over all those years that uncoated metal got wet.
I am going to run a PVC  tube from that point down to the bottom below the bulkhead area. This is just my opinion after doing all this repair.  Here are some pictures! Because Everybody Loves Pictures!!!
Way to go Stump......Great work !!

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #29 –
Stump,now would be a good time to redo those torque rod bushings.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #30 –
Nice work, Stump. It's really shaping up. ^.^d 

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #31 –
That overflow pipe has been the topic of concern for this to happen for a few years. I read the posting years ago and changed the location after reading it but I never fill the tank more than 3/4 anyway so should not have been an issue to me..
Never needed a full tank as water is available anywhere, even if you have to buy the big bottles at a Wally world or so.
JohnH

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #32 –
Great job Stump  ^.^d

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #33 –
Nice job👍👍

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #34 –
Great job!  Impressive to say the least!

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #35 –
Quality work.....Great job.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #36 –
Incredible work Stump. Let us know when you can go camping.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #37 –
Yeah the overflow is poorly designed. As is much of the plumbing system imo. Should have been led to below the coach.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #38 –
When I see the abilities of the people on this forum I feel like a second grader in a high school chemistry class.  You folks are amazing.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #39 –
I have a question about the rusty surface on the steel bulkhead plate.  I guess that's what you call it.    Just what needs to be done with that surface ?  Apparently it doesn't need to be ground down to bare metal, then primed and painted. Because I'm sure if that was  necessary , Stump would be doing it.  I'm guessing that most of the coatings that are mentioned here will stop that rust from spreading and / or neutralize it. And if that's the case, how about the joints or seams that you can't get to. Which coating is better at penetrating into those areas. 
  The one I'm most familiar with is Ospho but even it needs to be painted for proper protection.    Living here in the Pacific Northwest rust is a constant concern cause it rains so much and although they don't use much salt on the roads YET , if you just ignore water intrusion it will still rust.      ESPECIALLY if you've recently spent some time on the Texas gulf coast where I hear it's some of the most corrosive conditions of any coast.    I now have some light surface rust on our coach that wasn't there before.
  Last year when we were there ( Mustang Island ) I sprayed some stuff on the undercarriage of the MH and the Jeep so the surface rust is no worse than before.  I am just super paranoid about any rusty situation advancing.
  So, I guess two questions.  One is , the best solution for established rust that your not grinding off and the second question. A solution for arresting surface rust.


  Or I could do like one of the guys on the Jeep forum.  Once a year when he rotates the tires then rattle cans the heck out of the wheel well area ( has since new ) and it still looks great.      Sorry about the long post.