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Topic: Isolator Needed or Specs (Read 615 times) previous topic - next topic

Isolator Needed or Specs

I need a battery Isolator for a 1984 38Ft with a Cat 3208 Or the specs required and I can find one on line.
don@doncrawford.net  480-710-3606
Don Crawford

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #1 –
Don,

Welcome to the ForeForum.

Several options:

1. Go back with any diode-based isolator that meets the amp rating of your alternator. Not hard to find.
2.  Install a marine ON-OFF switch with alternator and chassis battery lead to one terminal and house battery lead to the other.
3. One of the new-generation, no voltage loss $$ isolators.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #2 –

Coaches are moving away from traditional isolators today. If you choose an ON-OFF switch, make sure it will carry the current. 350 amp cont. switches here with options. We always used a three position but the four position may be used also: Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems e-Series On/Off Battery Switch : Boating...

With a switch, you may create a damaging voltage spike if you turn the switch with the engine running. See the instructions on the face of the switch.

Pierce

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #3 –
A Victron zero voltage loss 200 amp isolator is $120.  About the same price as a diode isolator.
Victron Argofet Battery Isolator

A smart Sterling ProSplit R Zero Voltage Drop Battery Isolator for 180 amps is $190.
Sterling ProSplit-R – Zero Voltage Drop Battery Isolator

Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #4 –
As far as I know all the new coaches come with an battery auto combiner.  Blue sea makes a 500 amp unit. 

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990180180.pdf
"Riding and rejoicing"
Bob
1997 U320 40' Mid entry, build 5132,  wtbi ce27, 4th owner
2007 Solara convertible
2 prodeco tech outlaw ss electric bikes

1095 watts solar
08 Ls 460 and a sc430
2000 Ford F-250 superduty 4x4

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #5 –

I linked to the wrong switch. No damage will occur if using this switch. I should have linked to the 4 position switch. This one has the possibility of damage as stated on the front. Amazon.com : Blue Sea 9001E E-Series Battery Switch : Boating Battery...

Pierce

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #6 –
Topic moved here as it seems more appropriate to technical discussion than classified ad.
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #7 –
Curious, If I understand this correctly and use one of the manual switches instead of a diode isolator, does that mean while driving, it should be switched to "Both" to charge all batteries and when dry camping, it should be switched manually to the coach battery only to prevent discharging both the engine and coach batteries ?
Mark & Bev
2001 U295 36' Slide
Cummins ISC 8.3 350HP
Build #5802
Jeep Wrangler Toad

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #8 –
Quote from: MarkC –
Curious, If I understand this correctly and use one of the manual switches instead of a diode isolator, does that mean while driving, it should be switched to "Both" to charge all batteries and when dry camping, it should be switched manually to the coach battery only to prevent discharging both the engine and coach batteries ?

As I posted above and Pierce correctly posted a caution about another style marine switch:

Do NOT use a 1-both-2-off switch unless you REALLY KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.  Incorrectly used, you can do damage.

A simple marine ON-OFF switch with alternator output (from B+) and chassis battery to one lug and house battery to the other is an idiot-proof solution.

Here is one: e-Series On Off Battery Switch - Blue Sea Systems
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #9 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
As I posted above and Pierce correctly posted a caution about another style marine switch:

Do NOT use a 1-both-2-off switch unless you REALLY KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.  Incorrectly used, you can do damage.

A simple marine ON-OFF switch with alternator output (from B+) and chassis battery to one lug and house battery to the other is an idiot-proof solution.

Here is one: e-Series On Off Battery Switch - Blue Sea Systems


Thank you Brett, maybe I'm over complicating it.  If using the above On/Off switch wired as you state, does that mean the chassis battery then will always be charged when the engine is running, and the coach battery only when in the ON position ?
Thanks again for your help, don't mean to be a pain.
Mark & Bev
2001 U295 36' Slide
Cummins ISC 8.3 350HP
Build #5802
Jeep Wrangler Toad

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #10 –
Quote from: MarkC –

Thank you Brett, maybe I'm over complicating it.  If using the above On/Off switch wired as you state, does that mean the chassis battery then will always be charged when the engine is running, and the coach battery only when in the ON position ?
Thanks again for your help, don't mean to be a pain.

CORRECT.  Chassis battery always charged-- hard wired to B+ terminal of alternator.

House battery only charged when switch ON.

Not only simple, but allows two other advantages:

A HD battery combine (1200 amp starter rating)

If plugged into a CG last night and planning for one tonight, you are not spending diesel to work the alternator harder to OVER-charge the house battery.  Said another way 14 VDC into an already fully charged house battery all day is not good for it.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #11 –
GOT IT ! :) , Thanks for your patience.  Also, by always having power to the chassis battery, does that also mean that you could switch the coach battery ON under power without worry of a power surge .......hence be Idiot (or Mark) Proof? 
Mark & Bev
2001 U295 36' Slide
Cummins ISC 8.3 350HP
Build #5802
Jeep Wrangler Toad

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #12 –
If you are talking about turning on the salesman switch by the door (which isolates most house circuits from the house battery when off), not sure it would make any difference one way or the other if the new isolator was on or off.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #13 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
If you are talking about turning on the salesman switch by the door (which isolates most house circuits from the house battery when off), not sure it would make any difference one way or the other if the new isolator was on or off.

Thanks again, I learn something everyday from this Forum!
Mark & Bev
2001 U295 36' Slide
Cummins ISC 8.3 350HP
Build #5802
Jeep Wrangler Toad

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #14 –
Two more question for the experts: First, if you have a good size solar (900 watts) and you are running (driving) mostly during daytime, would this switch would be an effective way to keep chassis battery bank well charged without two systems trying to charge the house batteries? Second, does this affect the boost switch setting that combines house and chassis for helping to start coach in difficult situations?

My battery isolator is probably original, so my understanding is it could be at the end of its life cycle.
1998 36 foot U270 Build No. 5328 WTFE, 900 watts solar, Victron controller, B2B, bat monitor, 600 AMPH lithium with 2018 Chevy Colorado toad, SKP #110239, Motorcade #17781, 2021 Escape 17B for when Coach is broken down and campsites are too small, retired and full-timer since Dec. 2020. Part of RV family since 1963.

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #15 –
Quote from: Realmccoy –
Two more question for the experts: First, if you have a good size solar (900 watts) and you are running (driving) mostly during daytime, would this switch would be an effective way to keep chassis battery bank well charged without two systems trying to charge the house batteries? YES.  WITH SWITCH OFF, WHILE DRIVING ALTERNATOR WOULD CHARGE CHASSIS BATTERY ONLY.  SOLAR WOULD CHARGE HOUSE BANK ONLY. THIS ASSUMES THAT THE SOLAR IS HOOKED ONLY TO THE HOUSE BANK WHICH IS THE "NORMAL" WAY TO WIRE IT. TURNING ON THE BOOST SWITCH OR ISOLATOR SWITCH ON WOULD HAVE BOTH SYSTEMS CHARGING BOTH BANKS.


Second, does this affect the boost switch setting that combines house and chassis for helping to start coach in difficult situations? BOOST SWITCH WOULD WORK AS BEFORE.  BUT THE MANUAL ISOLATOR SWITCH COULD SERVE AS A REDUNDANT COMBINER. SO WITH MANUAL ISOLATOR SWITCH ON, CHASSIS AND HOUSE BANKS ARE COMBINED.

My battery isolator is probably original, so my understanding is it could be at the end of its life cycle.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Isolator Needed or Specs

Reply #16 –
Thank you. My solar only charges house batteries, my Trik-L charger provides charge for chassis bats while parked. That has worked well for the past three years.
1998 36 foot U270 Build No. 5328 WTFE, 900 watts solar, Victron controller, B2B, bat monitor, 600 AMPH lithium with 2018 Chevy Colorado toad, SKP #110239, Motorcade #17781, 2021 Escape 17B for when Coach is broken down and campsites are too small, retired and full-timer since Dec. 2020. Part of RV family since 1963.