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Topic: Blowing out water system (Read 978 times) previous topic - next topic

Blowing out water system

I am getting ready to blow out my water system and I am wondering if my water pressure fitting will work for air too ??

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #1 –
I have an adapter that mates an air quick-disconnect to a garden hose thread and that's what I use to blow air through our system as the first step in winterization. Works well.

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #2 –
Quote from: Super8mm –
I am getting ready to blow out my water system and I am wondering if my water pressure fitting will work for air too ??

I see you have a U270, so no AquaHot to worry about, but if you have a washer/dryer, be aware blowing through isn't sufficient and you would need to use the potable pink antifreeze to protect the washer.

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #3 –
Quote from: D.J. Osborn –
I have an adapter that mates an air quick-disconnect to a garden hose thread and that's what I use to blow air through our system as the first step in winterization. Works well.
That is what I just picked up but I am going to hook it to the coach air so I probably need to step the pressure down?

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #4 –
Quote from: Michelle –
I see you have a U270, so no AquaHot to worry about, but if you have a washer/dryer, be aware blowing through isn't sufficient and you would need to use the potable pink antifreeze to protect the washer.
No washer either, so I can't have to worry about that :-)

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #8 –
I set my air pressure regulator at 30 psi.  It is enough.  Drain the fresh tank first. Waste tanks should be empty too. Be sure you take out the water filter under the sink, put in a bypass plug and open it back up to blow out the drinking water faucet.  Open each faucet, hot then cold, one at a time.  Don't forget the wet bay, the shower,  the toilet and the fresh tank and line and drains.  Then repeat every one until just air.

Here is a winterizing document from several years ago.

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #9 –
I am not knowledgeable of how long you've had this rv or if a previous owner removed a washer/dryer.  In that case an often forgotten p trap is the one for the washer.

Rv antifreeze is relatively inexpensive compared to damaged plumbing, I always use more than neccessary to protect washers, p traps, waste valves, etc.

I also use the blow out system to winterize.  I do it multiple times, over time, to remove as much water as posible.  I also like my Harbor Freight compressor that has the adjustable air pressure gauge.

I use a hook up device thru the water entry that allows me to leave it on with compressor running watching pressure on compressor.  This allows me to go inside and close and open toilet and each faucet in shower, and sinks.  Done multiple times, minimizing any freezing issue is a must for me.  Splendide washer/dryer manual has specific winterizing instructions.

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #10 –
It's also a good idea to blow air through the valve & lines to fill the fresh-water tank and to flush the toilet to blow air through that assembly.

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #11 –
Thanks Roger, I just got my regulator and fitting.  I have plenty pink stuff for all the drains.  ^.^d

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #12 –
All of the info above is spot on.
Just did probably 30 winterizes. I know many will disagree with me. Mine is from years of experience of doing this. I realize lots of people get away with just blowing them out, but I have seen many failures doing it that way.

I highly recommend pumping RV anti freeze through the water system.Blowing air can work, if the coach is inside, and not susceptible to severe temps like 0-15 FH. There is moister in that air you are blowing it out with, and there are very small passageways in toilet valves and faucets.

I realize this requires a by pass kit installed on the water heater lines. Not a big deal. Lots of coaches have them in place already.

I didn't see anyone covering the ice maker. One needs what I call a suicide cord for it. Basically a hot wire plugged into the ice Maker valve, so it is open when you blow out or pump anti freeze.

Also, the washer drier faucets need to be opened inside the cabinet, even if there is no W/D.

Cheers
Chris

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #13 –
It takes 6 gallons of RV antifreeze (less than $20) and about an hour to do it well.  Flushing it out, fill part way, flush, then fill takes an hour when it is warm.  A small investment in time and $ to protect your coach.

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #14 –
Don't forget about the capped off hot fitting on the Manibloc as well as the toilet valve.  Don't ask me how I know.  Woody.

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #15 –
Quote from: gracerace –

"I highly recommend pumping RV anti freeze through the water system.Blowing air can work, if the coach is inside, and not susceptible to severe temps like 0-15 FH. There is moister in that air you are blowing it out with, and there are very small passageways in toilet valves and faucets.

I realize this requires a by pass kit installed on the water heater lines. Not a big deal. Lots of coaches have them in place already."
Cheers
Chris

Thanks Chris, I've done both winterizing with bypass for water heater and blow out method.  I have preferred bypass method.  So when I bought the FT I purchased both the bypass kit and the rv antifreeze winterizing.

I could not install this due to clearances.

My issue is the amount of clearance behind the hot water heater, as it is right up against the fresh water tank.  Can you give me any idea of how I can accomplish this.

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #16 –
After pumping antifreeze  thru the lines I will blow the lines out again. That way it takes less time for the fresh water to run clear.
I also leave all faucets open, just in case any moisture freezes it has room to expand.

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #17 –
Also, it might help if you remove the aerators off the end of each faucet just before shutting down the system. That way, come spring, any mineral deposits that come loose over the winter will come out without plugging your screens in the spring.

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #18 –
Quote from: Jack Lewis –
Thanks Chris, I've done both winterizing with bypass for water heater and blow out method.  I have preferred bypass method.  So when I bought the FT I purchased both the bypass kit and the rv antifreeze winterizing.

I could not install this due to clearances.

My issue is the amount of clearance behind the hot water heater, as it is right up against the fresh water tank.  Can you give me any idea of how I can accomplish this.

A by pass kit can be installed below the W/H. You would have to take the water heater out to do it.

Chris

Re: Blowing out water system

Reply #19 –
Quote from: Big Al –
After pumping antifreeze  thru the lines I will blow the lines out again. That way it takes less time for the fresh water to run clear.
I also leave all faucets open, just in case any moisture freezes it has room to expand.
One always wants to leave the W/H bypass in winterize mode, till you flush the system. Then open it to fill the W/H with clean water. This way no anti freeze will get in the W/H. Not an issue, since RV anti freeze is potable. It just smells nasty when heated.
Chris