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Topic: Wheel Seal Problem? (Read 831 times) previous topic - next topic

Wheel Seal Problem?

Just got to our BLM campground in Lone Pine, CA and noticed all my wheels looked like the picture below.  I just made an appointment with Temecula Valley RV to have them all looked at.  I have about 300 miles before I get to Temecula RV.  Should I be in a panic or does this look OK until then?  Seems strange that they would all do this at the same time...

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #1 –
This is a first for me, never seen all 4 wheel seals go at the same time and I have had a lot of experience on vehicle repairs. The front system is individual wheels but over filling the rear end could take out both rears at the same time if the vent was plugged.

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #2 –
Remove the center cap.

Check oil level.

There will be a ring with arrows showing proper oil level (below fill hole with coach on level ground.

If low, add 90 wt gear lube.
If BIG leak, check every 25-50 miles.

No problem.

When having it services/seal replaced, be sure to check for oil on the brake linings.  Replace both sides is they are saturated.

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #3 –
Have you recently had tires rotate or some other work done with the tires. Looks to be a light coating of some lubricant on each lug and not 90 weight.

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #4 –
Are you sure you didn't drive thru oil.. Like others I've never seen 4 at one time.. never even 3 on a 5 axle semi.I do know this does nothing for your concern.. Be sure to let us know what you find and I hope luck is on your side.

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #5 –
Val, last night was Halloween when anything can happen.  Maybe you didn't give some trick or treaters any candy??

BTW..........great pic!

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #6 –
Just to clarify........ front wheels also?.......... or just the rears?
If fronts too, can you post a photo of them?

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #7 –
Quote from: Doug W. –
Have you recently had tires rotate or some other work done with the tires. Looks to be a light coating of some lubricant on each lug and not 90 weight.

If tire work was done maybe the tech lubed the wheel studs so he'd only have to torque 300 lbs instead of 450 lbs. But that's a bit of oil.

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #8 –
Quote from: Doug W. –
Have you recently had tires rotate or some other work done with the tires. Looks to be a light coating of some lubricant on each lug and not 90 weight.

Doug - I think your hypothesis is right on.  I just got back in from, as suggested by others, removing all the lug covers and the oil in the sight glasses are all at the max and on a few a tad bit above max.  (Noticed that the drive axle does not have sight glasses). I now remember when the Love's tech put on my centramatic balancers he coated my studs with oil and also the nuts.  That was a about 700 miles ago.  The reason I probably am seeing it now is because I boon docked yesterday and today and this morning the road was like talcum powder I left on and must have stuck to the oil that had spun out from the wheel studs and nuts.  So, thank the Lord, I think I am OK.

Thank you for your ideas!
Oscar

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #9 –
Oscar, I think you are ok, looks like an over achiever tire guy,

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #10 –
Be aware that torque specs for your wheels are DRY, not with oil or grease.

Yes, he MAY have lowered the torque but if he used the OE specs, they are over-torqued.

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #11 –
What would proper torque be when both lugs and studs are coated with lube? 

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #12 –
Sorry, Chuck I have no idea.

But, someone who can access size, thread count and what grade materials could look it up in one of the on-line resources.

Me, I just do it the it was designed.

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #13 –
I've seen that oil creep before, because I lightly lube my wheel studs or bolts.  It's a New England habit to keep them from rusting together from the winter salt.  But never to that awesome amount.

While whoever the angel is, is parceling out torque specifications, 1992 U225 please?

Brett wrote:
"Sorry, Chuck I have no idea.

But, someone who can access size, thread count and what grade materials could look it up in one of the on-line resources.

Me, I just do it the it was designed."

That, folks, is what I get for being lazy.

And Brett?  You too would oil wheel studs after the first time you twisted off a wheel stud because of rust.

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #14 –
450 ft-lb. dry.

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #17 –
Typically in the Aviation Industry,  torqueing a dry torque that has been lubricated, you would reduce the final torque by 20 percent. So the torqueing procedure would be to start at 75% of final torque which would be 270 to set wheel. Then adjust torque to final at 360.  But if written torque procedures are available, then follow them.

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #18 –
The Alcoa manual shows hub piloted two piece lugs as requiring 450~500Ft. Lbs. of torque with light lubrication and no specs for a dry torque. It does give dry specs for the Bud style. AFIK, 99's and later are hub piloted.
Don

Re: Wheel Seal Problem?

Reply #19 –
Don, I think the next page covers the lubrication from Alcoa Manuel
Chris

Stud Located, Ball Seat Mounting System
It is recommended to torque to between 450 and 500 foot-pounds. If lubricated with motor oil,
torque should be between 350 and 400 foot-pounds. Note: when dualing steel wheels with Alcoa
aluminum wheels, follow the steel wheel manufacturer's recommendations regarding the proper
torque and use of thread lubricants to mount the wheel.