Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 11, 2025 ...

What "brand" replacement board did you use?  If it wasn't a DINOSAUR you don't have the right one.  Their replacement boards are significantly better in quality/function than any other brand, including a genuine Atwood factory board.

Ken
Try a new clean ground. Screw it to the top of the case (not the back, as the screw can go into the tank). Sand the case for good contact.
You say $75.00 for board off ebay. Was it used. I bought a used one once, did the same thing.
If you have a manometer, you can check the LP pressure at the allen bolt on the gas valve, that will tell you if the valve is working, before you throw parts at it.
Sometimes just one of the 2 solenoids goes bad. They are replaceable. I probably have a good used one.
Did you change the thermo cut out, when you replaced the thermo's? Those go bad. You can remove it to test, but don't permanently leave them out:

Amazon.com: Atwood 93866 Thermal Cut Out Switch 2 Pack: Automotive
Chris

Take a voltage reading across the solenoid coils, when cold and when hot.  That will tell you if there is a change in resistance for one reason or another.  Remember E=IR, voltage equals current times resistance.  For comparative measurements just make the resistance equal to 1.  Makes the math easier.

Or, turn on the hot water heater and when it tries to light smack the valve with a hammer.  The valves are disks sitting on top of tubes with the aid of light springs and gas pressure.  If the valve opens the electromagnets are weak.

A voltage reading across the solenoids is a good idea. Would at least tell me if it's upstream or downstream of the gas valve.

When making my list of actions I left out 7. Tried impact adjustment on gas valve. Unfortunately didn't help.

thanks!
ken

Mike I replaced the WH about 4 or 5 years ago.

I found my problem. As usual it was mostly dumb me.

I let the WH cool down and took voltage readings at the T-stat and saw 11.9v and at the ECO 10.9v. WH lit and ran fine. Waited for it to fail and took readings. 11.9v on T-stat & 0v on ECO. On a whim I reversed the thermo switch on the ECO and T-stat. It lit and ran fine! Did some research and found out the thermo switches are set at different temps. The T-stat is set for 140º and the ECO is set at 180º. Duh! I had watched a youtube on replacing the thermo switches and it didn't mention that they are set to different temps and the switches look identical. Went back and read the Amazon description and it does say the 180º goes on the left (ECO) and the 140º goes on the right (T-stat). It wasn't till after I read this that I found out what ECO stood for (Emergency Cut Off). The switches are marked 60c and 82c.

My assumption is that the original problem was the ECO went bad, was kicking in early, and stayed that way until it cooled. 

Moral of story: do some damn research before slapping parts in!

After 9 years on the road I'm still making rookie mistakes.

see ya
ken