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Topic: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC  (Read 1152 times) previous topic - next topic

Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Greetings-

I returned to my coach today and found the plastic overflow tank empty.  I then took the cap off of the metal tank and found pink coolant filled up to the fill tube.

I would like to carry some coolant while I travel.  Can anyone give me a recommendation as to the proper type and a quality brand.

The plastic tank has no markings on it.  I was expecting hot and cold fill lines.  Is this the best place to add the coolant?  Any guess on hot and cold levels?  Maybe 2/3 hot and 1/3 cold?

I am planning on replacing my radiator cap this week.

Thank you in advance.
2001 U270- 34'
with Aqua-hot
Travel Safely
Have Fun!!

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #1 –
Actually, with a 19 year old coach it is very unlikely to be original coolant.

So, we would only be speculating as to what is in there and what would be compatible.

Any chance you can find out what is in there-- previous owner, previous shop, other???

And, if you don't know its age or condition, may be time to flush and fill with one of the new-generation ELC coolants.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #2 –
I cannot find it in the records which I have available at this time. 

I am taking a trip to Cummins this week for them to look at a couple of items.  Hopefully they can analyze the coolant and give me a plan of attack.

I just was hoping to carry some fluid so I can add if needed while I take the trip.  It's a few hours away.

As always Brett, Thank You.

-FT
2001 U270- 34'
with Aqua-hot
Travel Safely
Have Fun!!

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #3 –
With no history and the relative cost of a complete coolant flush and change vs cost of an engine or radiator.........

There is nothing complicated about changing coolant.  Just time consuming.  If you decide to do it, let us know and we can give you the "step by step".
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #4 –
You might want to also check your transmission fluid to make sure it is not reading higher than normal. A foretravel owner couple we know found their radiator overflow tank empty and didn't think anything about it (other than topping it off) until their transmission acted up. Apparently there is a trans cooler(? or CAC?) (in their year model) where both trans fluid and radiator coolant tubes are co-located. Due to corrosion, the coolant was leaked into the trans fluid via this cooler(?). Something they observed but didn't understand why was their trans fluid level started reading higher than normal. I thought it was worth mentioning as a quick trans fluid level check is easy to do (and maybe save someone a trans rebuild if caught early). Perhaps Brett (or one of you guys) could provide an explanation.
Walt, Dawn, Matt & the Poodles
99 36' U320 #5515 MC #17977 "Axle"
Not All Who Wander Are Lost (not original but I like it)

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #5 –
Brett, I'm in the same situation, would you mind providing the step by step instructions on the anti-freeze replacement.
Thank you very much.
Mark & Bev
2001 U295 36' Slide
Cummins ISC 8.3 350HP
Build #5802
Jeep Wrangler Toad

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #6 –
Cooling System 101

First step is to determine your total cooling system capacity.  Your chassis maker or coach maker, not your engine manufacturer is the proper source.  Then buy enough coolant (concentrate, not pre-dilute) to make up 50% of that volume.  The new-generation OAT-based long life coolant is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED. Also purchase 1.5 times system capacity of distilled water for a final flush plus final fill (50%).  Also a good idea to change the engine thermostat and thermostat gasket as these are a wearing component and it involves very little more work while you are there.

Turn dash heater to full hot for the rest of the procedure—fan off. With the engine cold or at least cool, drain coolant.  On some, there is a drain cock.  On others, pull the lower radiator hose. Two Rubbermade 10 gallon storage bin lined with black trash sacks so they don't get dirty work well.  At the end of the whole process, use a coffee can and funnel to pour old coolant into new coolant/water containers for recycling.  Our city maintenance shop recycles coolant for free. 

Refill cooling system with tap water.  IMPORTANT: Be sure to remove any air lock from the thermostat housing.  Some systems have a hose set up for this—on ours I just loosen the coolant line to the air pump and bleed the air out. Allow engine to warm up (using the cruise control to select idle speed of 1,000-1,100 speeds this up). Run for about 10 minutes at regular temp. If the temp gauge does not rise as normal, you likely have an air block and need to bleed the thermostat housing.  Allow engine to cool 20-30 minutes and drain again.  Repeat until the effluent color is clear. 

At this point, if this is the first coolant change on a 2-3 year old coach and you are not changing coolant brands/types, skip right to "Last rinse".  For older systems or when switching types of coolant, add a Cooling System Cleaner. Follow the directions. Run, allow engine to cool, drain and again flush until effluent is clear.  The flushing is markedly sped up by pulling off the heater hose (usually 5/8" to ¾" lines) going to dash heater/motor-aid water heater, etc from the water pump.  Put a hose nozzle in the hose and let it run until it comes out clear.  Run the engine to temperature at least once with tap water.

If your hoses are over 3-4 years old, this is a good time to change them as well (before last rinse). Same for thermostat(s).
Last Rinse is with distilled water.  At $.62/gal at Walmart, it is silly to skip this step and leave your system full of high-mineral content water (there will be several gallons of residual water that you can not easily remove).  Run engine for 10 minutes after getting to operating temperature.  Cool and drain.  Also drain and flush your coolant overflow container and refill with new coolant/distilled water.

Add the proper amount of Coolant CONCENTRATE (NOT PRE-DILUTE) to make 50% of cooling system capacity.  So for a cooling system with 20 gallons capacity, add 10 gallons of Coolant CONCENTRATE (plus 1/2 overflow container capacity). Top off with distilled water to achieve your 50/50 mixture—it doesn't matter if you only have to add 1 gallon or 10 of distilled water, you KNOW you have the proper 50/50 mixture.

This is also a good time to clean the OUTSIDE of the radiator/after-cooler whether you have rear or side radiator.  On rear radiator, most if the debris will be on the FRONT of the after-cooler (accessed from under the bed).  On side radiators, most debris is on the outside of the after-cooler (side of coach). If it is just dirt, a hose and regular nozzle is all you need.  If greasy or oily, use Joy liquid (dish washing detergent) in a spray bottle. Be SURE to rinse it off completely. You need to insure that the perimeter is as clean as the center.  Ya, I know it is easier to see the center, but the fan blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter.

Check belts while you are in there.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #7 –
Thank you Brett, appreciate the time you took to thoroughly detail these steps.
Mark & Bev
2001 U295 36' Slide
Cummins ISC 8.3 350HP
Build #5802
Jeep Wrangler Toad

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #8 –
This is a link to a Cummins presentation that reinforces Brett's recommendation. Explains different coolant chemistries, what liner pitting is and looks like, effects of adding to much SCA, boiling points, etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1119&v=7FZghgZqidU&feature=emb_logo
Walt, Dawn, Matt & the Poodles
99 36' U320 #5515 MC #17977 "Axle"
Not All Who Wander Are Lost (not original but I like it)

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #9 –
Consider the Rotella ELC "NF" coolant.  The NF = Nitrite Free, which is supposed to be less corrosive to any aluminum components in the cooling system.  It may not make any difference but I feel better about using it.  It is a little harder to find but it is 100% compatible with standard ELC if you can't find it when you need to top off.  It was highly recommended to me by Shell tech support.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #10 –
I have been using Peak Final Charge Global in our Cummins M11 for several years with excellent results. I first replaced the coolant filter with a "blank" one (no additives in the filter) and flushed with several changes of distilled water. It's a straightforward relatively-easy process.
David and Carolyn Osborn
1995 U320C SE 40' Build 4726 Feb 1995
FMCA 147762
Motorcade 17186

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #11 –
Quote from: D.J. Osborn –
I have been using Peak Final Charge Global in our Cummins M11 for several years with excellent results. I first replaced the coolant filter with a "blank" one (no additives in the filter) and flushed with several changes of distilled water. It's a straightforward relatively-easy process.
Same here and it is available at Wally World
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #12 –
Coolant is nothing casual in a sleeved engine, sleeves are one grade of "iron" the block is another, then u have some various other metals in the cooling system. Thus U have potential for electrolysis. 
U have some spot temperatures, in the +1000f range, the coolant boils at those points.
Corrosion so to speak in one form or another happens thus eroding metal for one of the above reasons.
It's a lengthy story, oversimplified.
Short layman view, what happened,
We went to start one morning, did not make a turn,  hum dead battery?  nope,  got it started, went to local Frtliner, Cummins, had a long line. 
Bottom line, a hole had eaten through the sleeve, in 2 cylinders, and the block was eaten to where it could not accept new sleeves.
The story is much longer, the ttl with a few screw ups at frtliner did not leave much change from $40,000.
I would use nothing but Cummins coolant, last i knew $10./gal probably need 10 gals. 
Freightliner is a customer, to Cummins, never got a straight story "but" when Frtliner put the engine etc all together the used a coolant "guaranteed"  For some long period, miles. We were well within both. Fortunately just short of our extended warranty.
The coach, a 2011 Dutch Star Newmar, -45,000 miles. When thi happened.
MY BOTTOM LINE,  Coolant is as important as oil, service it regularly.
Regards to all,
Bill
Loving our simple no slide, 99U295.
Bill, Tricia, Sassy  Mostly poodle. Maybe
It,s. 5 o clock somewhere,  ?
MoHo has 3 happy days,  Buy, everything works, sell.
  Hopefully the rest are pleasant days.

Pull 05 Jeep Liberty.

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #13 –
Yes, I am a newbie in need of some wise counsel as I too want to flush my cooling system (99 U320, Cummins M11). My concern is that, as a Foretravel owner, we have to consider more than just the diesel engine but other components as well... Aluminum, steel, head gaskets, rubber hoses, radiators, trans coolers, etc. Thus my question(s):
1) Will Fleetguard ES Compleat OAT harm any aluminum components in the Foretravel cooling system?
2) Is using Fleetguard Restore engine cleaner recommended? yes, no, why?
3) What blank water filter should I install? Fleetguard WF2122?
Thanks for your help.
Walt, Dawn, Matt & the Poodles
99 36' U320 #5515 MC #17977 "Axle"
Not All Who Wander Are Lost (not original but I like it)

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #14 –
Look like all good choices to me.

It will take a full day to do-- most of that time waiting for engine to cool down before you drain.  But NOT a complicated/complex operation.

Be sure to get the concentrate, not pre-dilute.  And lots of cheap distilled water.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Coolant Recommendation and Advice- 2001 350 ISC

Reply #15 –
Thanks Brett for always taking the time to respond to us all! Very much appreciated!
Walt, Dawn, Matt & the Poodles
99 36' U320 #5515 MC #17977 "Axle"
Not All Who Wander Are Lost (not original but I like it)