Re: Roof cracks
Reply #50 –
I am using West System 105 with the 206 slow hardener. For most of the cracks I am adding fumed silica to the epoxy to thicken it. I used fiberglass chopped mat with epoxy to patch in the plywood for closing the larger holes. I used some spray foam to fill up the void under the antenna holes.
Between the skylight and the bath ceiling vent there was a small area of delamination. I was able to drill a few holes and inject epoxy and also inject into the layers at the vent opening. As the vent has solid metal framing on all 4 sides it made a nice clamping action and I could see that I completely filled the area as excess epoxy squeezed out the drilled holes. It seems to be rock solid in that area now.
I only want to do this repair once so I am leaning toward getting some biaxial fiberglass fabric and epoxy and doing one or 2 layers over most if not the entire surface of the roof. The fiberglass comes in 50" wide rolls so that would do one side with an overlap in the center. I measure the white unpainted roof width at 89". In some areas I do have some very fine cracks running lengthwise along the edge of the roof about 2 inches in from the edge of the paint. This is what is leading me toward covering the entire roof. I have to learn more about how to break up the work. I don't think you could epoxy 4ft by 37ft in one continuous operation even with a helper mixing. Primer and paint sounds easy compared to the fiberglass.
I did buy a top end Bosch electric random orbit sander that makes pretty quick work of the sanding so if I do proceed with the entire roof it wouldn't be too bad a job.