Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: No power at ignition switch. (Read 680 times) previous topic - next topic

No power at ignition switch.

First I do have power to the ignition switch and the solenoid. But when i turn the key i have no power to the dash. I replaced the solenoid same problem. I checked the switch and I have continuity between the poles when i turn the key.
My wiring diagram doesn't show anything else in line to cause this. Is there a relay that I am missing or any ideas on this issue?
1992 Silver Anniversary Unihome 4000
WTBA. 350 hp Detroit, Allison HT 746
Build number 4022

Re: No power at ignition switch.

Reply #1 –
When you turn the key, do you have power to the other big side of the solenoid? Did  you watch a test light illuminate or meter indicate power to the other side? Is this this solenoid you have?: Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A  One of the small wires goes to ground, the other to the ignition switch. It does not matter which to ground, etc, You can't install the small wires backwards but one has to go to ground.  Does the solenoid click when you turn the key on?

This is the exact same coach/wiring under the dash as our 1993 U300.

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: No power at ignition switch.

Reply #2 –
This attachement shows the wiring for the 24213. Connections 2 or 3, either one, must go to ground, the other comes from the ignition switch.

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: No power at ignition switch.

Reply #3 –
If the ignition solenoid is OK, there is also a fuse for gauges in the fuse block under the driver's side of the flip up dash.  10 amp as I recall.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: No power at ignition switch.

Reply #4 –
I haven't heard any click at the solenoid. It was starting fine then nothing. I changed the solenoid out the one that was in there was a SS584 80amp. I noticed that yours is 200amp. I may change that at a later date when I get this problem resolved. I will check under the dash for a fuse.
1992 Silver Anniversary Unihome 4000
WTBA. 350 hp Detroit, Allison HT 746
Build number 4022

Re: No power at ignition switch.

Reply #5 –
Turn your ignition switch ON, and then rap sharply on the top of the solenoid with a screwdriver handle.  Might free it up if it is getting sticky.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: No power at ignition switch.

Reply #6 –
Quote from: Mike and Jenn –
I haven't heard any click at the solenoid. It was starting fine then nothing. I changed the solenoid out the one that was in there was a SS584 80amp. I noticed that yours is 200amp. I may change that at a later date when I get this problem resolved. I will check under the dash for a fuse.
Unless you go to a BlueSeas solid state solenoid, the Cole-Hersee 24213 is the correct solenoid for both the ignition position as well as the boost solenoid. Cummins may have another one also. They are good for 200 amps continuous duty (don't think this means 24/7) It's hard to tell by looking with older eyes if the fuses are blown. The schematic for the fuel location is on the flip up dash top so when it's up, you can see where your fuse is and what value it needs to be. Never hurts to pull the terminal on the start battery when changing solenoids and also make a smart phone foto the wires on the solenoid so you don't get one in the wrong place. Disconnecting the battery will probably cause your radio to lose it's memory for stations and settings.

As I recall, the street side of the solenoid is the hot side with the curb side energized when the key is turned on. Anything you want to be hot with the key off (radio, etc) should be on the big street side connection. The lighter plug next to the ignition key, is wired to the ignition solenoid and is always hot, the other plug by the HWH control panel comes off house power and also is always hot.

Make a flip up piece of wood to hold the dash top up while working on the wiring, etc. A photo of ours is somewhere in the archives.

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: No power at ignition switch.

Reply #7 –
Ok figured it out stupid mistake on my part I removed the dash last week to have it reupholstered and removed the ground wire to the solenoid. Reattached and works. Thanks for all of the help
1992 Silver Anniversary Unihome 4000
WTBA. 350 hp Detroit, Allison HT 746
Build number 4022

Re: No power at ignition switch.

Reply #8 –
When you ask us for help in diagnostics it is always helpful to tell us what you've been working on in the coach recently.
Regards,
Brett

'99 42' Foretravel Xtreme
'14 Brown Motorsports Stacker
'05 Chevy SSR
'02 BMW R1150R

Re: No power at ignition switch.

Reply #9 –
I actually thought I had it running since I took the dash out. Guess not
1992 Silver Anniversary Unihome 4000
WTBA. 350 hp Detroit, Allison HT 746
Build number 4022