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Topic: Converter Problem (Read 516 times) previous topic - next topic

Converter Problem

I have a free-standing Inteli-Power 9180 (80 amp) converter with a Charging Wizard.  The converter connects directly to one of the batteries (positive to battery via a circular connector in the battery compartment, negative to chassis ground) and not to a busbar or distribution panel.  Over the years it has performed fine but occasionally stopped charging the batteries.  Just wiggling the wires would make it function again.  About 2 months ago it stopped working so I trimmed the wires back to clean metal, cleaned the terminals on the converter, put it back together and it worked fine until a couple of days ago.  I have 3 coach batteries so they take a while to run down.  Today I started having problems (furnace would not run properly) and I found my batteries were down to 10.8 volts

I have tested it as follows:-
1. I removed the negative wire from the converter, checked the DC voltage at the terminals and got a reading of 13.6 volts (+/- 0.2 volts) which was within the manufacturer's spec..
2. I checked the voltage between the disconnected negative wire and the positive terminal on the converter and got the battery voltage.
So far, so good.  The converter was performing correctly and I had a good connection to the batteries.  However, when I reconnected the negative wire to the converter, the output voltage at the converter dropped to the battery voltage.  That should not happen.  I suspect an internal fault in the converter, possibly a bad connection between the external terminals and whatever they connect to inside the converter.

I was wondering if anyone had come across a similar problem.  I don't really want to buy a new converter and find I still have a problem.

Martin
Marty Day
1986 GV 36'

Re: Converter Problem

Reply #1 –
I should add that having the Charge Wizard connected or disconnected made no difference.  I connected a battery charger to the batteries and the furnace now works fine.

Martin
Marty Day
1986 GV 36'

Re: Converter Problem

Reply #2 –
Check the fuses and recheck the voltage, except this time put a 12V light bulb, one with a filament across the output terminals.  It's possible your high impedance volt meter gave you a false reading.  Finally the PD91-- will fault out when the output is shorted.

Art

PS With the 92-- you don't need the pendent, the automatic stuff is already built in.  To put it another way the 91-- and 92-- Charge Wizard pendents are different and can't be interchanged.
1992 Foretravel Grand Villa
U225 SBID Build No. 4134
1986 Rockwood Driftwood
1968 S.I.A.T.A. Spring
1962 Studebaker Lark
1986 Honda VF700C
1983 Honda VF750C
Charlie, the Dog was broken out of jail 24 Oct 2023
N1RPN
AA1OH (H)e who must be obeyed.

Re: Converter Problem

Reply #3 –
Martin,

Sure sounds like you have a problem internally in the converter. Those are pretty reliable but you may have a loose wire inside from vibration or a burnt wire from overload (but that is fuse protected). This could causing either the sense side to not see true battery voltage or if on the output side of the transformer it may not be delivering proper voltage to the batteries.

Mike
OT's light bulb hack is a sure fire way to check thigs out.
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: Converter Problem

Reply #4 –
Thank you for your suggestions.  I am now convinced that the problem was simply due to freezing temperatures.  I discovered that the operating temperature range is between 32 and 122 degrees F.  The converter is situated in an (unheated) storage compartment.  I now have a heat lamp installed which I switch on during freezing temperatures and the problem has gone away.  This problem would not arise if the converter was inside the coach as appears to be the case with newer RVs.

Thanks again, Peoples.
Marty Day
1986 GV 36'