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Topic: New Battery Cables (Read 893 times) previous topic - next topic

New Battery Cables

I have 3 batteries for my start system which I would like to replace the cables on. Does anyone have advice on the type, gauge lengths. costs etc of the cables and connectors.

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #1 –
Why do you want to replace them? Is there something the picture doesn't show? A good cleaning of posts and cable ends is all I see needed.

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #2 –
Your cables don't seem in bad shape. Are you having a problem starting? Do you want to buy commercial cables or DIY?

Pierce

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #3 –
Unless the cables are significantly compromised I would subject them to a baking soda soaking.
Like a piece of eaves trough (blocked on the ends) of sufficient length to hold your cables and then soak the cables with a baking soda solution or something that a Foforum member might recommend as better than baking soda.

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #4 –

Those cable and post looks good. Not sure why you want to change.
But just in case, I think you need at least  3/0 AWG wire. Those cables are not cheap.

I made some battery wire while restoring my 91GV. Below are items I used.


TEMCo WC0295-20' (10' Blk, 10' Red) 3/0 Gauge AWG Welding Lead & Car Battery...

Wire End

Amazon.com : SELTERM UL Listed Marine Grade Wire Lugs, Battery Cable Ends,...

Battery Terminal

Amazon.com: Ampper Military Spec Battery Terminal End, Top Post Battery...

Wire Cutter

TEMCo Wire and Cable Cutter - 4/0 (0000 Gauge) (120 mm²) Capacity 12 in....

Terminal Crimper

WBHome Hydraulic Wire Crimper Battery Lug Terminal Cable Crimping Tool, 8...

Heat shrink tube

Amazon.com: Young4us 2 Pack 1'' Heat Shrink Tube 3:1 Adhesive-Lined Heat...

Hot air gun

Amazon.com: Wagner 0503059 FURNO 300 Heat Gun, 750áµ’F & 1000áµ’F Heat Settings:...

Expensive!

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #5 –
Well...thanks for the advice. I was just being proactive being that I am the new owner of the coach. I am replacing the battery isolator ( as it is coming apart) and the the Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid (as it looks really rusty) so I thought "what the hay"....start fresh... Maybe I will re think that!
Peter

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #6 –
Always wondered (idle mind again)
Isn't the contact area between the cable end and the battery post the determining factor when it comes to conductivity ability and not the cable size?
Do we overkill in order to assure that as much voltage/amps as possible are being conducted?
There are those on this forum that can respond in a layman's capability to comprehend  the answers.

Being a VERY frugal (read poor) dumbass, when I wanted to add another starting battery I couldn't find any cables shorter than 24" or heavy enough gauge. So I did the old farmer solution. I took some 1/2" diameter copper tubing, flattened it and then cut it into 13.5" lengths. I then doubled/stacked two pieces together and taped them together. Then I drilled the ends to fit the posts on the batteries. They fit on the two batteries, carry adequate power, and help hold the two batteries together.

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #7 –
Quote from: dicksop –
Well...thanks for the advice. I was just being proactive being that I am the new owner of the coach. I am replacing the battery isolator ( as it is coming apart) and the the Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid (as it looks really rusty) so I thought "what the hay"....start fresh... Maybe I will re think that!
Peter

Agree with others.  If the protective coating on the cables is not compromised, clean the posts and the post clamps on the cables and you can spend that money elsewhere.

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #8 –
Quote from: nitehawk –
Always wondered (idle mind again)
Isn't the contact area between the cable end and the battery post the determining factor when it comes to conductivity ability and not the cable size?
Do we overkill in order to assure that as much voltage/amps as possible are being conducted?
There are those on this forum that can respond in a layman's capability to comprehend  the answers.

No.  Laymans term, think of the wire as a straw.  The larger the straw, the easier it is to blow air through.  The larger the cable relatively speaking, the easier it is to push current through.  Current is the flow, voltage is the potential between two points (voltage = pressure in the straw analogy).  If you had too small of cable from batteries to starter, the high current would create too much "friction" and melt the cable.

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #9 –
Thanks for that info.
Does that mean that the large surface area of two flattened 1/2" diameter copper tube sandwiched together has as much conductivity surface as the 3.0 cable?
My "farmer solution" doesn't even get warm. Must be because my surface area is both the inside and the outside of my flattened tubing.

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #10 –
Quote from: nitehawk –
Thanks for that info.
Does that mean that the large surface area of two flattened 1/2" diameter copper tube sandwiched together has as much conductivity surface as the 3.0 cable?
My "farmer solution" doesn't even get warm. Must be because my surface area is both the inside and the outside of my flattened tubing.

I couldn't honestly answer that.  I know that the electrons travel between the strands of a cable, not THROUGH the strands themselves.  Lower voltage requires higher current to make power, so DC systems like (or maybe require?) stranded wire.  More strands = more lanes in the highway. 

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #11 –
Battery cables look OK, clean cable ends and posts until they are shiny. Use Corrosion X or a light coat of electrically conductive grease on reassembly. Use an in-lb torque wrench on threaded battery studs or you cn break them off.

One little tub will last as long as you own your coach.
NO-OX-ID "A Special" Conductive Terminal Grease

If you having having trouble starting, disconnect both the positive and negative cables from the batteries, clean the two common studs that the battery cables lead to and all of the lugs on each.  Clean the cable connections at the starter motor.  If you are going to replace cables replace the cables to the starter with 4/0 cables or with a pair of 2/0 cables.

Make sure your + and - cables from the battery set are attached to opposite corners.  It doesn't look like that is the case.

If your cables are near something where they may get abraded by rubbing use some corrugated wire loom to protect them.  Your negative cable leading from the center battery looks like it crosses a positive battery post and cable.

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #12 –
Quote from: nitehawk –
Being a VERY frugal (read poor) dumbass, when I wanted to add another starting battery I couldn't find any cables shorter than 24" or heavy enough gauge. So I did the old farmer solution. I took some 1/2" diameter copper tubing, flattened it and then cut it into 13.5" lengths. I then doubled/stacked two pieces together and taped them together. Then I drilled the ends to fit the posts on the batteries. They fit on the two batteries, carry adequate power, and help hold the two batteries together.
What you constructed was a crude form of busbars to connect the additional battery.  If you go online you can find many scholarly dissertations on the difference between busbars and flexible cables.  Most of it way over my head.  I'm sure there is a formula somewhere for calculating the relative current carrying capabilities of solid busbars versus flexible cable.  The practical test of any conductor is: When carrying the maximum possible current does it melt?  Since your copper tube busbars haven't melted (yet) I guess you are OK.

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #13 –
I used a file and replaced the hardware with stainless steel. I also added an additional ground cable about 24 inches long to the frame. A welding shop can sell you the welding cable and copper ends. I didn't have the hydraulic tool for the copper lugs at the time but have one now. At about $52, it's an excellent investment and does a professional job. 16 Ton Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool 11...

Pierce

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #14 –
Quote from: evantwheeler –
I couldn't honestly answer that.  I know that the electrons travel between the strands of a cable, not THROUGH the strands themselves.  Lower voltage requires higher current to make power, so DC systems like (or maybe require?) stranded wire.  More strands = more lanes in the highway. 
If the electrons travel between the strands of cable and not through the strands, how does a solid wire or a bus bar conduct electricity? 

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #15 –
Quote from: DayDreamer –
If the electrons travel between the strands of cable and not through the strands, how does a solid wire or a bus bar conduct electricity? 
A good percentage of electrons travel toward the outside of a wire. But plenty travel down the main part of the wire or terminal lug or bus bar. In theory, a welding cable would conduct just a little more juice than a solid the same size.

Pierce

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #16 –

Peter, we agree with replacing those original cables with 'integrated' battery post clamps.  These are a problematic cable design, in that we keep poor clamping terminals in service because they are part of a triple set.

Best and practical way is to use individual Military battery post connections:

Amazon.com: Quick Cable Lead Military Style Battery Terminal w/Zinc Plated...

Cables should be 4/0 with ring terminals crimped in the correct polarity a little longer than the distance between battery posts with cable arched between batteries.

The beauty of military terminals is when a terminal goes bad, cracked or even aged out, just replace the inexpensive terminal with same cable. We carry spare military terminals.

This will go a long way to assure all batteries are powering the engine starter.  Good idea.

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Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #17 –
From my reading. One item that all of us have to watch out for. Is aluminum with copper coating! This is NOT to be used. Is there a way to ensure a potential buy is not this kind of wire?  Common way to test for it? Wording to watch out for Some?

So much if not all purchases are online.
Please advise this nugget of lead.

Deal for today:
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Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #18 –
Good point Texhub.  Amazon seems to be flooded with aluminum wire.  When I rewired my generator controls I bought good quality tinned copper wire from these two online suppliers:  boatwiresales.com    and    pacergroup.com
They were smaller sizes but they do have larger sizes for battery cables.

Re: New Battery Cables

Reply #19 –
Quote from: evantwheeler –
I couldn't honestly answer that.  I know that the electrons travel between the strands of a cable, not THROUGH the strands themselves.  Lower voltage requires higher current to make power, so DC systems like (or maybe require?) stranded wire.  More strands = more lanes in the highway. 
Ewwww . . .

True for AC not so much so for DC.  There is a skin effect with AC but it doesn't really become apparent until the AC becomes RF.  High enough frequency RF and you use a product called Heliax or out and out wave guides where the RF travels along the inside surface.

I use welding cable for my batteries because it's easier to move around.