Re: Water heater drain
Reply #4 –
And if you don't want to be buying a new control valve you might want to do what I did (after two valves flooded/failed at about $34 each) and get a 2" long pipe nipple and an end cap and put them in where you currently have a pipe plug or a petcock.
You might have to slightly elevate the gas line so the nipple goes underneath, but the improvement is well worth the effort.
After doing this mod the water now runs out without running down the side of the coach, and the pipe conversion will still allow you to close the heater door.
Now that I think about it, I am not positive on the pipe nipple length. Measure your distances for yourself. Seems I bought two different lengths but don't remember which one I used.
Got to amend this post, as I remember things different after looking at my "supply" in the shed.
I used a pipe nipple and a coupler. I don't remember length of the pipe nipple tho. I did grind the outside diameter of the coupler down so it would clear the propane supply line. I figured the slight reduction in wall thickness wouldn't make much of a difference seeing as how the water pressure isn't all that high.
By using a coupler I could then use the standard nylon pipe plug in the end and still clear the louvered door.
Topic: Water heater drain