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SeeLevel

When I got his coach the tank level gauges were still working. They finally gave up the ghost so it's time for SeeLevel. The best price I've found is at RVUpgrades ($200). Anyone know of a better price elsewhere? Thanks.
jor

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #1 –
Jor, I just ordered the SeeLevel and found that RV Upgrades had the best prices I could find.  Now, just need to get it installed.  Ordered 2 sets for I wanted an additional display to mount out in wet bay, as well as one in the coach.  Hope this helps.

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #2 –
Well, RVUpgrades it is unless someone else chimes in. I'll also get two. That's what I did on the coach I had before this one. Very accurate (except for the LP which I never could get just right). My install should be easy peasy as I ran the wires when I first got this coach. That Audit box surprised me though and refused to die until just now.
jor

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #3 –
re- my experience installing the SeeLevel. I put this system in both my coaches. Both have the private toilet room with medicine cabinet above the toilet. The pull out pantry makes up  the wall behind the toilet. I removed the pantry pullouts from their guides, set them aside. I ran the SeeLevel wiring up the space behind the pullouts and mounted the SeeLevel display inside the medicine cabinet above the toilet, then I re-installed the pull-outs. Worked out well for me

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #4 –
would love to pics of your seelevel install was you are putting it in. Where did you run your wiring?

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #5 –
I got mine from RV upgrades also. I think sea level is RV upgrades from what I understand. I ran the wires through the basement up through the floor behind the sink and was able to get up behind the fridge raider to my information center that is above the microwave. It was fairly easy. Jor I understand that you are at extreme right now, if you would like to see my set up I am at MOT tonight and will be here till probably lunch I'm guessing  or at least I'm hoping to be out of here by lunch tomorrow.

Keith

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #6 –
Installing a seelevel can't the old wiring be used from the old system and install it in the dash.

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #7 –

Oldguy.  The SeeLevel uses two wires per sensor (black, gray, fresh, LP and volts). You could use the existing wires if they are big enough (18 ga or bigger) and try installing the display in the dash but it might be more reliable to use new wires. The F, G and B tanks are right next to each other and running the wires up through the floor in our coach into the bathroom closet and up to a display mounted in the bathroom wall next to an OEM carbon monoxide detector put it in a place that is convenient to check and easy to see. 

Buying two kits gets you enough sensor strips to measure the full height of the tanks.  You can run a set of wires across the top of the tanks and add a second display in the wet bay which for me is very handy when flushing tanks with a three valve setup.

18 ga wire is sufficient for connections. Lots of choices for this but nothing special is needed.  Wire like this comes in a jacketed pair. Convenient and tidy.

Amazon.com: Monoprice 104045 Access Series 18 Gauge AWG CL2 Rated 2 Conductor...


As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #8 –
I bought from a place called Best Converter. It was a bit cheaper.

I'm about 90% done with the install. I am mounting the panel above the microwave in the small cabinet where the microwave plugs in. This puts it beside the power monitor and inverter controls. Like others I am also putting a second panel in the wet bay.

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #9 –
Which model of SeeLevel are you installing?

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #10 –
709-1003 ($175)
709 SeeLevel II Tank Monitor System

With 2 sets there are enough sensors for the 3 tanks. I've installed the gray and black but still need to do the fresh. There is also a sensor wire for the propane tank that I have not routed yet.

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #11 –
Quote from: oldguy –
Installing a seelevel can't the old wiring be used from the old system and install it in the dash.
I elected to do exactly what you mention.  I replaced the CRT monitor with a cover plate to mount the SeeLevel monitor.  I re-purposed some of the original wires from the Audit system to connect the dash monitor to the tank sensor strips.  Has been working just fine for 2 years.

What did you do to your coach today VIII

Behind the Water Heater Access Port

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #12 –
What's involved in installing the sensors on the tanks?  One or two sensors per tank?  I believe the current sensor for the fresh water tank is a device in the plumbing next to the water pump.

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #13 –
The See Level sensor strips are 12" long and the tanks are about 22" tall. You can cut the strips and join them together (follow the instructions).  For example 2 10" sections make a sensor that goes from near the bottom to near the top.  The exact length depends on where you can trim the sensors.  Garnett suggests that each section should be the same length.

You need to clean the tank surface where the strips are attached as instructed. I used a fine sandpaper first.  The installation instructions suggest positioning the strips with masking tape before removing the backing paper to expose the adhesive back and placing them permanently.  Follow the wiring instructions. Mount and connect the display.

The top of the strips on the fresh water tank shouldn't end above the overflow level.  At that point the display will read 100%. You want it to read 100% before your tank overflows.  The bottom should end above the bottom of the fresh tank.  When the level gets there it will read 0%.  You still have a few gallons left in reserve.

The top of the strips on the waste tanks are probably best left well below the top of the tank (maybe 3").  When it reads 100% it is time to empty the tanks, before an overflow occurs.  I rarely let mine exceed 80%.

Your coach's tanks may be in a different location and different sizes from other models and years. Look, plan, ask questions, and then do it.  It is not very hard to do and the improvement in tank status awareness is useful.

Roger

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #14 –
I know this string is aging but, Roger, I'm trying to figure out how to get the seelevel sensor strip on my gray(?) tank. Guessing tank arrangement is same in my 2001 u295  3610 as your u320. I think, fresh and black easy flat access in the manifold/water pump compartment. I can't see any indications of the original sensors or 12v. Assuming I won't find those, any suggestion for where's best to pick up 12v? I'm guessing the gray is the sloped tank "way back" behind the water and shore power reels in the wet bay? How did you get to that to place the sensor strip? I get that the slope isn't a big deal if I have enough strip. How to route wires from there to the other two on the curb side to bundle with 12v and on to panel in coach. There's a lot of stuff running across the two tanks on the curb side and trying to fish a wire over there looks problematic. I do see a straightforward path from the manifold bay to under the CM detector as you installed. Do I have to take the wet bay at least partially apart? To sum, I suppose my befuddlement is mostly about placing the sensor on the tank visible from the wet bay and picking up 12v from "someplace"?

Steve

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #15 –

Hi Steve,

All three of my sensor strips are on the ends of the tanks on the passengers side. If you remocve the cover panel over the manifold you will see the black colored gray and black (narrower of the two) tanks.  Strips go on the ends of the tanks.  In the 320s the panel above the water pump can be removed and the flat shelf above the water pump comes out. And then the end of the white fresh tank.  My strips when on there on the end of the tank.  In the 295 I think the water heater is there making getting at the end of the tank more problematic.  So you are correct, on the other end the tank is sloped to accommodate the hose and power cord reel.  The hose reel is easiest to remove if you need to to put the strips on that side.  Start from the bottom of the sloped section and go to the top, no need to try to go around the corners.  When it says 0% you will have some  reserve and when it says 100%  it won't quite be overflowing, both beneficial.

12v can come from tapping into the +12v wire leading to a light fixture in the bay.  If the power to the light fixture is controlled by a push button switch actuated when the bay door is opened then tap into the +12v wire going into the push button switch.  In my coach there are lights in either end of the wet bay not controlled by bay door switches.  On either drivers side or passengers side of the bay just forward of the wet bay there are door actuated switches.  None of this is high powered wiring so a good quality 18 or 16 ga wire will do. 

The easy way to go from on side of the wet bay to the other is over the top. I have a 25' fiberglass rod in 5' screw together sections with a variety of ends for pulling wires.  I pushed it across the top and then pulled a 1/8" cord and with that pulled the wires across.  This is like the one I have but not the same one, about 5' per section, the end one is a bit longer and glows in the dark.  You need a hooh and a loop end at least.  Lots of other much less expensive ones but I hve used mine a lot for wiring projects and more.  Mine came from ZORO tools.

https://amazon.com/Glow-30-Foot-Klein-Tools-56430/dp/B01N23C683/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=Fiberglass+wire+puller&qid=1615416022&rnid=2941120011&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-18

Roger.

Send an email address if you want pictures, glad to help.

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Re: SeeLevel

Reply #16 –
Whoa! Lotta good info there Roger (as always). Thanks much! I may be a real bean head in not noting a seam between the black and grey hidden behind the manifold. I'll have fingers crossed when I walk down to have a look in the morning. That would really make it a walk in the park given I have aquahot and the 12v is available where you indicated. Routing to the panel under carbon monoxide detector only moderate, but quite acceptable, pain if the side by side black and grey works out.

Steve

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #17 –
If you have an AH then there should be nothing above the water pump space.  If not then it is a much easier install on the fresh tank.

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #18 –
Roger, is the curb side end of your fresh tank "L" shaped?  I have not taken that bay apart yet, but I believe that end of the tank, behind the water pump, has a step inward about 6" from the bottom or so.  Did you install your SeeLevel strip on the side or the end of this tank?

Re: SeeLevel

Reply #19 –
Keith, on the 2001 U30 36' (as I have) the curb side of the fresh, gray and black tank ends are flat and vertical, no slope, no steps. Pretty easy to install there. On the fresh tank there is no reason to go any higher with the strips than the overflow outlet, about 2" below the top of the tank.  Your fresh tank may have a level sensor to close the fill valve when the water reaches that level.  That should be the top of your strip.

The tanks may be different in another year or model.