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Topic: Converter 1986 FTX (Read 667 times) previous topic - next topic

Converter 1986 FTX

My 86 FTX has just a 60 amp 1000 watts converter. Can I change that to a larger converter without having to make any other additional upgrades?

Re: Converter 1986 FTX

Reply #1 –
Need to clarify exactly what you have now.  There are straight single-function power converters.  Then there are power converters + battery chargers.  Converter/chargers are the most common type.  Whichever you have, it is probably plugged into a 120v outlet.  Or it might be hard wired to a 120v circuit.  Either way, the only possible problem with upgrading to a "bigger" unit would be overloading the 120v circuit.  So you need to know the rated max 120v input power requirement of the converter, and make sure the circuit in your coach can support it.

If you are thinking about an upgrade, what is your motivation?  Do you want a more powerful 12v power supply, or a better battery charger?  Getting a better battery charger function is often the best reason to replace the old converter/charger.  Newer units should include a "smart" 3 or 4 stage battery charger.  This will be a BIG improvement over 1986 "battery boiler" technology, and will take much better care of your batteries.

Essential Guide to 120-Volt Power Converters for RVs | RV Repair Club
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Converter 1986 FTX

Reply #2 –
It has been replaced with the Intel Power 60 Amp. One of the previous owners must have upgraded it. I just put two new 8D AGM interstate batteries with 250 Ah, but only one is for the coach. I was thinking about adding another 12v AGM 200 Ah battery and a 3000 watts inverter and then maybe down the road some type of solar system. But for now the second house battery and inverter should be enough, I hope.

Re: Converter 1986 FTX

Reply #3 –
Quote from: Cparker78# –
It has been replaced with the Intel Power 60 Amp.
Do you mean you have the Inteli-Power PD9160A converter?  If that is the case, that is a decent converter.  If you also have the Charge Wizard then you already have a good 4-mode battery charger.  I'm not sure what you meant by a "larger converter" (in your first post) or what you hope to gain by replacing the one you have.

One general rule of thumb for sizing battery chargers suggests you need a minimum of 10 to 15 percent of the combined batteries' capacity (ampere-hour or Ah).  So if you need to recharge two AGM8D batteries (2 x 240 Ah = 480 Ah), a rated 60 amp battery charger should work.  A bigger charger might recharge the batteries faster.  It all depends on how you plan to use your coach.  In most cases, the battery charger will only be recharging a partially discharged battery.  If, when dry camping, you plan on pulling your house batteries down to 50% SOC every night, then a bigger (faster) charger would help minimize generator run time.

PD9160A - 60 Amp Electronic Power Converter - Progressive Dynamics
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Converter 1986 FTX

Reply #4 –
Quote from: Cparker78# –
I was thinking about adding another 12v AGM 200 Ah battery and a 3000 watts inverter and then maybe down the road some type of solar system. But for now the second house battery and inverter should be enough, I hope.
Enough for what?  What are you going to power with the inverter?  A 3000 watt inverter is pretty big.  You should audit the electrical draw of any 120V appliances you have (or plan to install) and size the inverter to meet your present and future needs.  Unless you plan to install a residential fridge and use a convection/microwave oven regularly on battery power, a 3000 watt inverter may be overkill.

A big inverter also requires a big battery bank.  Two AGM8D batteries will not run a 3000 watt inverter at full output for very long.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Converter 1986 FTX

Reply #5 –
To put some of this in perspective, 3,000W is, at 12.5VDC 240 A of current.  How long can you crank your engine before the battery gives out?
1992 Foretravel Grand Villa
U225 SBID Build No. 4134
1986 Rockwood Driftwood
1968 S.I.A.T.A. Spring
1962 Studebaker Lark
1986 Honda VF700C
1983 Honda VF750C
Charlie, the Dog was broken out of jail 24 Oct 2023
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AA1OH (H)e who must be obeyed.

Re: Converter 1986 FTX

Reply #6 –
An excellent guide application.
Sizing a 12 Volt Battery to a Load - Battery Calculator
97 U295 40, Build #5040, 6C8.3 325 HP
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Prev: 1990 Barth, 10L 300 2 yrs; 91&92 Monaco Signature, 10 yrs, 10L C 300 &  6C8.3 300; 1997 ForeT 6C8.3 325 since May 2017.  Employed by Guaranty RV 14+ yrs.  Former VW New Car Dlr/Service Dlr, Sales Mgr, Rv Sales, and Service Adviser from 1968-2017
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Re: Converter 1986 FTX

Reply #7 –
Thank you for all the advice. I have been busy and I have not been on here for a while. But after a lot of research 3000 watt inverter is way to much for what I need.
I am looking at adding just a 1500 watt pure sine wave inverter. I know the booster solenoid and the isolator are working and my two new batteries are very solid, but I still want more battery power for the house side.

 Will it be ok to hook up 2 more 12 volt AGM 125 AH batteries directly in line with the house battery and add an inverter to that? I also know my alternator is 160 amp and I will over work it if I am running over 1900 watts continually while driving. Which I never planned on doing, but I am only going with 1500 watts to be safe.

Re: Converter 1986 FTX

Reply #8 –
 I run a 2000 watt Pure signwave for my little resi fridge.  I have 2 house lead acid 8D on that line . These 2 will run the fridge about 24-30 hrs before the volts get to 12.3 - 12.4.  The average watt draw was measured at about  37 ish. 
 I also have the same smart charger with charge wizard. 
    My OE alternator is rated 160 amp.  Plus I added a GM 125 amp  1 wire  alternator in place of the OE AC compressor . Direct wired to the 2 house bats.
 Everything works fine this way. I was told that the battery control/charging module would charge all of the batteries while driving but wanted to add some power in case the OE alternator failed .
  I have almost  no idea why it works but have been happy for 3 yrs now. 
    One battery failed before  the smart wizard was installed. 
  I dont try to run the AC or microwave from the 2000 watt stand alone( expensive) line.

Re: Converter 1986 FTX

Reply #9 –
Send me some pictures please if you get a chance. I am really in how you ran and where you mounted another alternator.

Re: Converter 1986 FTX

Reply #10 –
So I need a second alternator also in order to add a second 8D battery to my house side?

Re: Converter 1986 FTX

Reply #11 –
Many came with. 3 batteries with the Oe alternator
I just like having some redundancy with my 33 yr old bus .
I run at night 70% of the time .