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At-home electrical connection

Going from a 120v, 20 amp GFCI outlet on the side of the house to the 50 amp connection on the coach.
Option 1: Run either my 100' 12ga extension cord to the dogbone to the 15-to-50 amp adapter at the coach end (top of the pic), or
Option 2: Run the 30' 6ga 50 amp cord from the coach, to another 30' 6ga extension cord, to a 50-to-30 amp adapter then a 30-to-15 amp adapter at the house end (bottom of the pic).
Not going to be running A/C, just keeping batteries charged for the most part.
1998 U295 36' No slides
Towing 2018 Jeep Wrangler
Previous rigs:
  1995 26' Fleetwood Flair
  1998 34' Fleetwood Bounder
  1997 40' Bluebird BMC
  1999 24' Winnebago Minnie Class C

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #1
IMO, the fewer connections the better.  Each plug is added resistance.  The weakest link (smallest wire, or the circuit breaker) in the chain will determine max amps available at the coach.

A 100' foot 12ga extension cord should be able to handle up to 15 amps continuous (20 amps intermittently)...is that sufficient for your needs?

1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #2
Going from a 120v, 20 amp GFCI outlet on the side of the house to the 50 amp connection on the coach.
Option 1: Run either my 100' 12ga extension cord to the dogbone to the 15-to-50 amp adapter at the coach end (top of the pic), or
Option 2: Run the 30' 6ga 60 amp cord from the coach, to a 30' 6ga extension cord, to a 50-to-30 amp adapter then a 30-to-15 amp adapter at the house end (bottom of the pic).
Not going to be running A/C, just keeping batteries charged for the most part.

Option one is what my brother is doing back at my house with his Monaco in the driveway. Not having any issues charging batteries and watching television. Starts his generator for air or microwave.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #3
Sounds like a good place for an inexpensive solar charging system.
Nitehawk,  Demolition Lady, & our NEW master, Zippy the speeding BB cat.
1989 Grand Villa 36' ORED
Oshkosh chassis, 8.2 DD V8
2006 Saturn Vue AWD

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #4
I agree that fewer connections is usually better, but on the other hand we're talking 60' of 6ga. wire vs. 100' of 12ga.
What if I were to find a 50-to-15 adapter to replace the 2 dogbones? Would that then be better than the 12ga setup?
1998 U295 36' No slides
Towing 2018 Jeep Wrangler
Previous rigs:
  1995 26' Fleetwood Flair
  1998 34' Fleetwood Bounder
  1997 40' Bluebird BMC
  1999 24' Winnebago Minnie Class C

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #5
I agree that fewer connections is usually better, but on the other hand we're talking 60' of 6ga. wire vs. 100' of 12ga.
What if I were to find a 50-to-15 adapter to replace the 2 dogbones? Would that then be better than the 12ga setup?
6 gauge wire is overkill for your described purpose.  6 gauge will carry 60 amps, but your breaker is only 20 amp.  More plugs mean more places for moisture intrusion, and possible accidental disconnection.

Additional thought: How secure is the location?  Heavy 6ga extension cords would be more desirable to thieves.

But ultimately, you should DWMYH.

Best 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 Gauge Extension Cord Chart | Atlantic Aspiration



1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #6
Amazon.com: Camco 55353 50 AMP Female Replacement Receptacle: Automotive
Amazon.com: Camco PowerGrip Replacement Plug- Transform your RV Plug into a...
Purchase your 12 gauge but understand you are limited on power availablity. Deleats  all the additional connections. Circuit breaker should reflect wire size not connectors
Scott
As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #7
Which ever way you go (I think either would work) be sure the batteries are not low when you start. If batteries not charged when you start the initial surge (bulk charge) may be too much. What I have done to avoid this is have the engine running (so batteries are charged) when I plug in. once no longer a high charge turn engine off and the 20 Amp outlet and extension cord should handle keeping batteries charged, and some small other drains. I have done so with a 15 Amp plug and over 100 feet of extension cord.
Eric & Nancy
1999 36 Ft. U320 WTFE
2016 GMC Terrain

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #8
Most inverter/chargers have a programmable feature that allows you to limit the amps of 120 VAC used for charging.

Often called power share or power save.  That eliminates them from using more amps than you want.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #9

If you are going for the 100 ft extension cord a 10 ga will cost a bit more but will limit voltage loss and other common problems with power distribution extension cords.  The 50 amp to 30 amp and then 30 amp to 15 amp connector setup arranges the wires correctly

Here are a couple 50 amp female to 15 amp male direct adaptors.

Amazon.com: Camco RV Dogbone Electrical Adapter with Innovative 180 Degree...

This one looks like more to grip when plugging/unplugging the 15 amp connection.

Amazon.com: RVMATE 15 Amp to 50 Amp RV Adapter Cord 12", NEMA 5-15P Male to...

Amazon.com: RVMATE 15 Amp to 50 Amp RV Adapter Cord 12", NEMA 5-15P Male to...

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #10
I'll tell you what I did and it was free because I already have the stuff. And you know I love free. I hooked up a 3 stage regular old battery charger to the house batteries inside the bay via extension cord (size doesn't matter) and set it to automatic. Occasionally I leave the boost switch on for a day or so to top off the start battery. 
1994 U280, Build 4490
Deming, NM.

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #11
I've come up with a new option, one that was suggested by DakotaSlim in a post from a few months back.
He ran a 20 amp circuit for his shore power but used a 50 amp outlet which eliminated the need for an adapter altogether.
Since I have 10 gauge wire from the panel to the outlet, I think I can swap the existing 20 amp breaker out to a 30, and upgrade to a 50 amp outlet on the side of the house. As to how I wire that outlet, I would of course hook up both neutral and ground, and then I think split the hot wire to feed both hot legs that go out to the coach. Does that sound right?
I really want to do more than just charge batteries. I want to run some A/C.
1998 U295 36' No slides
Towing 2018 Jeep Wrangler
Previous rigs:
  1995 26' Fleetwood Flair
  1998 34' Fleetwood Bounder
  1997 40' Bluebird BMC
  1999 24' Winnebago Minnie Class C

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #12
As to how I wire that outlet, I would of course hook up both neutral and ground, and then I think split the hot wire to feed both hot legs that go out to the coach. Does that sound right?

Yes, hot to both outer straights (wire to one, short jumper to the other)
Neutral to center straight
Ground to center round.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #13
I've come up with a new option, one that was suggested by DakotaSlim in a post from a few months back.
He ran a 20 amp circuit for his shore power but used a 50 amp outlet which eliminated the need for an adapter altogether.
Since I have 10 gauge wire from the panel to the outlet, I think I can swap the existing 20 amp breaker out to a 30, and upgrade to a 50 amp outlet on the side of the house.

Why not eliminate any future confusion (for future owners of your property) and put in a 30 amp RV outlet when you swap out to the 30 amp breaker?  If you have the right existing wire gauge to support the 30 amp breaker, it's something to consider.  Then just use a 30/50 dogbone on your shore cord.

Yes, it involves an adapter, but one you should carry anyway.

We have had a 30 amp RV circuit/outlet at our most recent 3 homes.  Plenty to run 1 A/C and keep the batteries charged.  Heck, we lived an entire summer in Maine on 30 amp.  You just learn to run only 1 large load at a time (one a/c, micro/convection oven, clothes dryer, espresso machine...)

Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #14
Dan, In your initial post, you said no AC, I noticed in your last post you said yes to the AC.
I definitely would not run your AC on a 100' 12 gauge cord. It will draw too much amperage for that long a run.
Mark & Bev
2001 U295 36' Slide
Cummins ISC 8.3 350HP
Build #5802
Jeep Wrangler Toad

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #15
Mine is plugged in with 100ft, 12 g. Works fine but as noted wont run ac in warm weather .  It would run a minisplit maybe .

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #16
Always be aware of voltage drop with long cables, so it is always better to use larger diameter cables, especially since over time demands may change, like wanting to use microwave or some other high amp appliance. Better to go bigger now to enjoy the full use of coach. Even a battery charger can draw over 10 amps of AC.

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #17
Dan, In your initial post, you said no AC, I noticed in your last post you said yes to the AC.
I definitely would not run your AC on a 100' 12 gauge cord. It will draw too much amperage for that long a run.
Yes I did originally say no A/C, but now I'm thinking that if I use my 50 amp cord with 6 gauge wire the voltage drop will be minimal. And I'm also planning to install a SoftStart on the A/C unit so I can run it on 30 amps.
1998 U295 36' No slides
Towing 2018 Jeep Wrangler
Previous rigs:
  1995 26' Fleetwood Flair
  1998 34' Fleetwood Bounder
  1997 40' Bluebird BMC
  1999 24' Winnebago Minnie Class C

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #18
Yes I did originally say no A/C, but now I'm thinking that if I use my 50 amp cord with 6 gauge wire the voltage drop will be minimal. And I'm also planning to install a SoftStart on the A/C unit so I can run it on 30 amps.
If all you need is a 50 amp receptcle there are very nice
Connecticut Electric CESMPS54HR Connecticut Ps-54-Hr Weatherproof Power...

Lots of similar for less, be sure to get one with a lock.

You should have a disconnect just before the recepticle.
Amazon.com: Siemens WN2060 AC Disconnect 60Amp Non-fused , Gray: Home...
As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #19
When I had the Monaco I had a 10 gage wire plugged into a 30 amp RV plug
about 80 ft. long. In the winter 2 electric heaters was all that would work and one
of the heaters was on low. I would watch the volt meters and wouldn't run below
110 volts. The Foretravel is plugged into 240 volt 50 amp plug and as I already had a 40
amp breaker that is what I use. That is more power than I need.
Peter and Frieda Morin
1999 36ft. U320 Foretravel
Build # 5436
1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #20
I use a 100 ft extension cord I made up using 10 gauge stranded wire, I get no voltage drop when the coach is plugged in at home, it will run the AC without more than a few volts drop. Bought the wire at a big electrical supply and made two 50 ft cords, have been using these cords for years.
David & Emma Roche
Dino (Golden Doodle)
1999 U270 WTFE 36' Build # 5534
Xtreme "Lights, Stripes & Roof"
Motorcade# 18321
Dayton, Ohio
Towd: Jeep Grand Cherokee
Two Townie Electra Bikes

Life is made to enjoy, the Foretravel helps!

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #21
Okay here's what I ended up doing. The electrical subpanel in the pool house already had a 20 amp circuit with 10ga wire running approx. 20 feet to an outdoor outlet. Nothing else on the circuit. I replaced the outlet with a junction box and extended the 10ga wire another 40' to a post next to the RV. On the post I put a shutoff switch rated at 30 amps, then a 14-50R outlet with the two hot legs jumpered together. I can plug in the coach's 50 amp power cord without an adapter/dogbone, and the A/C runs beautifully.

Questions/concerns:
The Powerwatch meter in the coach shows 111v when there is little or no load, but drops to 104v with the A/C running. If I check the outlets in various locations throughout the coach with my multimeter, they all show 120v with no load, 113.6v with A/C running. I've checked numerous times in the past week and it is consistently 9-10 volts higher than the Powerwatch. So can I assume the Powerwatch is just wrong, and if so is there a potentiometer inside that I can adjust?

Next: What is the lowest voltage (as measured on my multimeter) that would be safe to run things like A/C in my coach? If it drops to 110 is that okay? What about 105?

Finally, I had intended to swap the 20 amp breaker in the electrical panel with a single pole 30, since I believe the 10ga wire can handle that, but if the coach A/C starts and runs without tripping the 20, is there a reason to do the swap?
1998 U295 36' No slides
Towing 2018 Jeep Wrangler
Previous rigs:
  1995 26' Fleetwood Flair
  1998 34' Fleetwood Bounder
  1997 40' Bluebird BMC
  1999 24' Winnebago Minnie Class C

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #22
Ampacity of wire is temperature and distance dependent. NEC publishes a table, stay within the requirements of that table.
Longer runs and more heat reduces ampacity of the wire

Tim Fiedler
Gen-Pro.biz
630 240-9139
Tim Fiedler    2025 LTV Unity MBL on Order
2000 Chevy Tracker 2 Door Convertible 4WD Now lifted 4.5"
1985 Citroen 2CV6 Charleston
Murphy Rebel on wheels with 175HP Titan
Cessna P337
1980 48' Westport MY (!/4 Share)

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #23
Okay here's what I ended up doing. The electrical subpanel in the pool house already had a 20 amp circuit with 10ga wire running approx. 20 feet to an outdoor outlet. Nothing else on the circuit. I replaced the outlet with a junction box and extended the 10ga wire another 40' to a post next to the RV. On the post I put a shutoff switch rated at 30 amps, then a 14-50R outlet with the two hot legs jumpered together. I can plug in the coach's 50 amp power cord without an adapter/dogbone, and the A/C runs beautifully.

Questions/concerns:
The Powerwatch meter in the coach shows 111v when there is little or no load, but drops to 104v with the A/C running.
Next: What is the lowest voltage (as measured on my multimeter) that would be safe to run things like A/C in my coach? If it drops to 110 is that okay? What about 105?

Finally, I had intended to swap the 20 amp breaker in the electrical panel with a single pole 30, since I believe the 10ga wire can handle that, but if the coach A/C starts and runs without tripping the 20, is there a reason to do the swap?


Go here and click on 30 Amp service.  Scroll down to the wire size calculator and voltage drop calculator.  At 60 ft+ you are outside the limit for 10 ga. wire for a 20 amp circuit.  You cannot put a 30 amp breaker on that circuit and call it good, either. 

RV Electric

General recommendation is not to run 120 VAC motors on less than 108 VAC or you will cause damage to them.  That includes the air conditioner.

Modification of the 14R-50 receptacle is against code.  You might know what you did, but someone else plugging into it won't.  (and if you were to have a fire, even if the receptacle wasn't the cause, an insurance company can point to it and say "not to code" and not pay)

It's really a better idea to stick with using components in their intended configuration, even if that means you need to put an adapter on your power cord.
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: At-home electrical connection

Reply #24
Think of electrical loads as inductive (motors) or resistive (toaster). For voltages lower than about 110:

Toaster just takes longer to heat bread and appliance may last longer.

Motor can draw more amps than designed and overheat motor windings and have a shortened life.

No need to swap 20 amp breaker for 30 amp.