Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 11, 2025 ...

Mine was doing the same thing.  For me it was a sticky Aquahot tempering valve.  Easy fix, but I had to contort a bit to get to the valve as it's underneath and behind the burner/blower.  Count the turns to turn the valve clockwise (close) to stop, then open it all the way, close it again, then open it to the same number of times.  Done.  Zero dollah.  Here's reference pics of the valve on my Aquahot.  As DSD said and you can see it's a PIA solder job to R&R.  In any case, the unit needs to be cold, or at least cooled off a bit to do this.  Woody.

This picture do not show the blower installed that really changes everything when it's install thoroughly covering access.

When reinstalling the blower, make sure you don't pinch the photosensor wires at the top. That could cause it to ground out to the case, dropping voltage as it's returning to the control module, thusly tripping the module's failure circuit and killing combustion after 9 seconds. Ask me how I know .

Ha ha I was thinking of mentioning don't over torque hold down bolts too. I hear they are fragile

I filled our water heater with 5% vinegar and then turned on the heater and let it "cook out" for 24 hours.
Really made a difference in removing or loosening up the calcium buildup. So much so that I removed and cleaned all the faucet screens.

I wonder how much difference having the AH hot would make.  I did not have mine hot at the time.  May run some more through the hot side and see what happens.  Might try heating it up too.

Thanks Mark, the reservoir is at the marks when hot and cold, but I'll check the top too.

Remove the radiator cap on top, antifreeze should be as full as you can get it. But if the level in the overflow moves during use then it is probably full
Keith

The overflow reservoir does move from cold to hot marks, but while it's cooled off, I'll check it.

Mine was doing the same thing.  For me it was a sticky Aquahot tempering valve.  Easy fix, but I had to contort a bit to get to the valve as it's underneath and behind the burner/blower.  Count the turns to turn the valve clockwise (close) to stop, then open it all the way, close it again, then open it to the same number of times.  Done.  Zero dollah.  Here's reference pics of the valve on my Aquahot.  As DSD said and you can see it's a PIA solder job to R&R.  In any case, the unit needs to be cold, or at least cooled off a bit to do this.  Woody.

Thanks for the info Rudy.  Bought a replacement relief valve and started fiddling with it tonight.  Looks like I need to remove the burner assembly to rotate the valve to remove it.  I was hoping not to have to disturb that.

Now to find the power circuits to the unit to kill it before I try removing the burner.  AC and DC power, right?

I guess I'll be able to get to the tempering valve easier once the burner is out though.