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Topic: Sealand toilet base (Read 511 times) previous topic - next topic

Sealand toilet base

I have a 511 Sealand and dealing with a leak. Taking it apart, there is the black base that houses the retractable cover. In the base, it has a lot of grooves as well as a hole about the size of a nickel in the 12 o clock position. There is fluid down in this hole. Is fluid supposed to be in there? How does it get out?  I have some photos, I'm going to refrain from posting them as it's not a pretty sight :-) I have the gaskets that sit on top of this bass and I am getting the bottom flange seal tomorrow.

KIT, 511/911/2011 BASE-WHITE 310123 - Environmental Marine

This shows pictures of the base, however you cannot see the whole as the gaskets are covering it. Hopefully someone has some experience in the past and can weigh in.
Jason
2000 U295 36' Non-slide  ISC350

Re: Sealand toilet base

Reply #1
Nitehaw just had a write up on this very thing a couple of days ago.
previous 1984 35 ft ORED 250 HP 3208 Cat       
previous 1998 40 ft U295 CAI 325 hp Cummins
previous 2003 40 Ft u320 build #6140 450 Cummins M11.                                                         
1999 Mazda Miata
Ron, Nancy, Tipper the cat, Max The dog
1997 U 270 36 ft build number 5174 8.3 Cummins

Re: Sealand toilet base

Reply #2
If you have two overflow holes in the back of the bowl, contact Sealand/Dometic and get the rubber plugs for the holes.
Then, look down at the back left rear of the base. There should be a "tunnel" going left to right that permits you to put a wide flat bladed screwdriver in there to let out the nasty fluid.
Once you get that fluid out and the vertical hole and the two rectangular slots alongside the hole are dried out...plug them flush with the top edge of the hole surface with a good grade of silicone seal.
Nitehawk,  Demolition Lady, & our NEW master, Zippy the speeding BB cat.
1989 Grand Villa 36' ORED
Oshkosh chassis, 8.2 DD V8
2006 Saturn Vue AWD

Re: Sealand toilet base

Reply #3
Thanks. However, I don/t have 2 holes in the rear. I have 2 holes, one at the rear/12 o'clock. It's rectangular on the sides with a circle in the middle. Think of a crude Tie Fighter from Star Wars. I have another smaller hole at the 4 o'clock position, this looks like it's a place holder for the upper bowl.

Is this what you have at the top? It doesn't make sense that they would have a hold that catches stuff without a way to drain it. Needless to say, it had a very strong ammonia smell.  I will try to find a photo of the part I have, and will contact Sealand about the plug.
Jason
2000 U295 36' Non-slide  ISC350

Re: Sealand toilet base

Reply #4
Hard to find a photo. This is close although mine is slightly wider 8:41 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxXJn8dyL8w 

Here is an underside, but no one appears to have a photo sans gaskets.  https://media.dyersonline.com/media/catalog/product/cache/96f83c3eba5e231eb073e9fe8782fde3/d/o/dometic_511-_911-_2011_traveler_model_toilet_white_base_kit-37835-7.jpg 

Is this what you are plugging?
Jason
2000 U295 36' Non-slide  ISC350

Re: Sealand toilet base

Reply #5
OK, attached is the parts page from my 511 owner's manual
Look down in the lower left corner and I think it is part #12 that is the plug that needs to come out to drain the "12 O'clock"hole and the two rectangular openings.
Altho, now I can't remember if the two rectangular openings drained or not.
Either way, I don't have a hole on the front. I do have a locator post sticking up at about 5 O'clock
You just might have a 510, not a 511.
I just looked at the page I attached and it shows drain plug on the 910, 911, 510, and the 511. All drain plugs are labeled #12.
So if you don't have a drain plug I don't know what model you have.
The owner's manual says to remove plug and drain for winterizing. This was before the implementation of the overflow plugs.
Nitehawk,  Demolition Lady, & our NEW master, Zippy the speeding BB cat.
1989 Grand Villa 36' ORED
Oshkosh chassis, 8.2 DD V8
2006 Saturn Vue AWD

Re: Sealand toilet base

Reply #6
Thanks for this. I do have a 511 but a newer one. I have the manual but those plugs are not in there. Interesting,. I will be getting in parts today to address this. I was able to clamp the base down to stop the slow leak on the rear side.
Jason
2000 U295 36' Non-slide  ISC350

Re: Sealand toilet base

Reply #7
Phone number I have for Sealand is 1-800-321-9886 altho it is from 8/04/14, so not sure if still good.
Just ask for (2) overflow plugs--in the color of your bowl. Mine was light baize 1989
Nitehawk,  Demolition Lady, & our NEW master, Zippy the speeding BB cat.
1989 Grand Villa 36' ORED
Oshkosh chassis, 8.2 DD V8
2006 Saturn Vue AWD

Re: Sealand toilet base

Reply #8

Thanks Nitehawk for that #.

I called and talked to a very knowledgeable person there. She said that around 1999 they changed the need to have an overflow connection but due to cost, the mold was not updated immediately. It appears I fit in this bucket, where I have the older style pedestal/base but with no tube to drain this. The result is what I am seeing, or smelling, some very putrid odors.

She suggested cleaning out the pedestal and sanitizing it, then putting on an updated seal Amazon.com: Dometic (385311462) Toilet Seal Kit , Black : Automotive that does not have the hole at the 12 oclock position.  I will probably see if I can seal this hole as well. My NIB seal kit is has the notch, so it would be nice to have the updated kit, guess I will sell this and get the updated one.

Hope that helps anyone else in the future. Again, Dometic's support was amazing.

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Jason
2000 U295 36' Non-slide  ISC350

Re: Sealand toilet base

Reply #9
Here is the slot/hole at the 2nd pic at 12 o'clock (3 o'clock in my photo) I was referring to that I could not find a photo of. You can see where they could tap a line but that was discontinued as noted above. New seal works great, it's a little more than the slotted one.
Jason
2000 U295 36' Non-slide  ISC350

Re: Sealand toilet base

Reply #10

Another note for those who maybe in here. I replaced the water valve as well, ordering two, the Dometic and an aftermarket one with good reviews. After 3 weeks, I replaced the aftermarket with the Dometic. When the toilet was flushed it put too much water in the bowl, causing it to overflow once and come close 2-3 times. This caused the black tank needing to be dumped more frequently. With the Dometic, it's now at a lower level that I was used to, and won't overflow.

This is the one to go with Amazon.com: DOMETIC 385314349 Water Valve Assembly : Automotive

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Jason
2000 U295 36' Non-slide  ISC350