Re: Air brakes at 0 lbs in storage
Reply #14 –
Agree...they are one of the most important safety components in the air system. Plus, replacing the protection valves first can help in chasing air leaks!
Once you know the protection valves are working properly, IF the coach owner has the opportunity to watch the gradual decline in pressure on the dash gauges (like visiting the coach every day to check the gauges), then they can gain a valuable clue to the location of the major system leaks. Two possible scenarios:
1. Starting at normal max system pressure, the dash gauges show a continuous decline, with roughly the same psi loss each day until the gauges get to 60 psi (or thereabouts), and then the gauges stop falling. They should hold at around 60 psi for several days before they start to fall again, at a much slower rate. In this case, the major air leaks are somewhere downstream of the protection valves.
2. Starting at normal max system pressure, the dash gauges show a continuous decline, with roughly the same psi loss each day until the gauges hit zero. In this case, the major air leaks are somewhere upstream of the protection valves. A study of the air system schematic may help with the search. Look for any device that is fed directly from the brake tanks (IE upstream of the protection valves). Also, in this scenario, it is very important to verify that the inlet check valves on the brake tanks are working correctly. If the inlet check valves leak, then pressure in the brake tanks can flow "backwards" to the wet tank. Then, if the inlet check valves on the wet tank fail, the pressure from the brake tanks could continue to escape all the way back to the air dryer, and the D2 governor.
Anyway, my point is that the protection valves, when working properly, divide the air system into roughly two "halves". Knowing which half of the system is leaking can help narrow down the search for leaks.
If you wish to test the inlet check valves on the brake tanks, try the procedure below:
1. Run engine until air compressor cut-out pressure is achieved. Shut off engine. The entire air system is now at the same pressure.
2. Check (record) the reading on both dash air pressure gauges (or both needles, if single dash gauge).
3. Open the water drain valve on the WET tank (see air system schematic), and allow pressure to bleed off to zero.
3a. What came out of drain valve? Dry air is good. Water, or oily grey "mud", or dry white powder is not so good. Time to service dryer.
4. Check (record) the reading on both dash air pressure gauges (needles).
5. If both dash gauges read the same pressure in step #2 and step #4, then the inlet check valves on the respective tanks are good.
Clarification: With "good" inlet check valves, the "front" and "rear" air tanks should not lose pressure when you drain the wet tank.
6. If either, or both, of the dash gauges lost pressure between step #2 and step #4, the inlet check valve on the respective tank is bad, and should be rebuilt or replaced.